Should I Even Attempt This [BSE]

[JayB12]

I've had a load of parts lying around for a while now. Among them are a complete timing belt and head gasket kit as well as a Balance Shaft Eliminator kit. (also have OEM balance shaft belt)

I've finally decided to get it done. I have basically all summer (or at least until I find a job) and a garage full of the tools needed besides the specific timing belt tool kit (see here)

The issue being I am not Removing the engine from the car but still want to do the BSE. Although I've heard that I may become an issue to get one of the shafts to clear the frame. Also I don't really know how I would remove/install the new bearings so that I don't get any metal flakes into the oil pan. The last issue I heard that it may be a bit challenging to re-install the oil pan while under the car.

Is this practical to do? I really want to do it but I don't want to end up tearing things apart that I won't be able to fix without a lot of extra $$ I don't have currently.

 

[RamenPride]

The issue being I am not Removing the engine from the car but still want to do the BSE. Although I've heard that I may become an issue to get one of the shafts to clear the frame.

I did mine with the engine in the car. You just need to lower the engine far enough for the front shaft to clear the frame.

Also I don't really know how I would remove/install the new bearings so that I don't get any metal flakes into the oil pan. The last issue I heard that it may be a bit challenging to re-install the oil pan while under the car.

Once you remove the front shaft, flip it around and use it to knock out the bearings. You can also use it to install them after rotating them so they block off the oiling hole. Installing the oil pain while under the car isn't that difficult.

 

[JayB12]

I saw that was the usual method to remove and install the bearings. But what about getting the metal flakes all over? I don't want to end up getting a spun bearing because I left a few flakes in there.

Another question, do I need to re-pack the oil pump or anything? I'm not installing a new one but I've never done anything this severe before.

Also where should I have the engine supported if I have the oil pan and engine mount off?

 

[1bad4g]

on a 1-g the front shaft(closes to bumper) can not come out with engine in the car..(not sure about 2-g) i remove the oil pump checked the gears and. pack the oil pump with vasiline when you reinstall it. your going to have to remove the oilpan though if you do it this way.

just keep the front shaft in place when you put oilpump back on. keep the gear off with just the bolt there and then load it down with some rtv to keep it in place. mine worked fine like that for 12,000 miles with out any problems so far.

its best to look over ALL the possable problem areas to prevent problems later.. do all new gaskets, water pump, even new oil pump seals too. my car has 160,000 on it, it has been gone over well and i have had ZERO problems.

use a some cardboard and push your oil pump bolt thru it to keep the lenths in order.. use some red locktight on the bolt for the balance shaftbolt (in the pump) the small oilpump gear and timming belt sprocket gear. blue locktight for the bolts on the back of the pump that the oil pick up tube conects too..

 

[JayB12]

Does anyone else have anything to add to this? I have the head off right now and I'm getting ready to put everything back together.

 

[WES_393]

If your really in a pinch, do just as 1bad4g said and leave the front shaft in. I left mine in with the gear and everything still attached. Just no belt on it. While some may think of this as the "ghetto" way to do it, it works. It also helps with the typical high oil pressure from removing the rear shaft.

As for getting the rear shaft out, undo the drive side motor mount with a jack under the oil pan. Slowly lower the jack until the shaft can fit out of the car. Install the stubby shaft (hopefully you got one with a groove), bolt the oil pump/front case back on with a gasket or RTV, and your done.

The oil pan can be a bit of a pain, but it's definitely not impossible. You just need to remove the inspection plate, turbo return line, and the carrier bearing for the driver side axle. After that it's just unbolt and wiggle the pan out. Getting in back in without smearing the gasket sealer is a bit more challenging, but not impossible. There is also two bolts that are much shorter for the timing case area. If you install the longer bolts in this spot, they will destroy the timing belt. You should also only use RTV Black or Mitsubond for the oil pan, no gasket.

 

[JayB12]

I'm really just worried about three main things:

1) How do I hold the engine up (driver's mount off) if I drop the oil pan and try to remove the front shaft bearings? The only way I can thing of is to buy/rent an engine lift.

2) I don't want metal bearing shavings in the oil if I pound out the bearings from the front shaft, is there any way to avoid this?

If I use above method or not:

3) Do I need to repack the oil pump? If so, is there a write-up or something? I don't know how to do it.

 

[WES_393]

1) Use the corners or sides of the block and a piece of wood. Once you get the oil pan off you'll be surprised at how much engine block there really is under the oil pan. It's nearly an inch or so thick in the thinnest spots.

2) You really won't be making that much metal shaving. Maybe a few tiny flakes, but those can be easily flushed out with oil. Since you'll have the pan off (which isn't 100% necessary) you could use the tip of a trans oil bottle to spray some clean oil in there. That will flush out any metal shavings you create.

3) You shouldn't need to pack the oil pump. That's usually something to do when it's a brand new pump. You can prime the pump using a 12mm (I think, maybe 14mm) socket on a drill. Full speed you should be able to create a few PSI of pressure. Then just install the timing belt. Once the belt is installed, remove the fuel injector wires and crank the engine a few times to build pressure once again.

 

[JayB12]

I just finished doing the BSE and I'm reassembling now and have a few questions.

-I left the oil pan laying bowl-up in the garage for a few days it has some dust in it and I need to know the best way to clean it out. (Just rinse in the sink?)

-Are there any specific sealant I should be using on certain gaskets? I put the front case gasket on without any sealant (minus a few spots I used grey RTV on to get it to stay in place. TQ'ed to 17 ft-lbs is that right?

-What should my oil pressure be after this BSE? All stock motor basically (Was ~10psi warm and ~80psi cold start before.)

Also, I did the full BSE removing both shafts and installing new bearings flipped 180*.

 

[crimsondragon]

I just finished doing the BSE and I'm reassembling now and have a few questions.

-I left the oil pan laying bowl-up in the garage for a few days it has some dust in it and I need to know the best way to clean it out. (Just rinse in the sink?)

-Are there any specific sealant I should be using on certain gaskets? I put the front case gasket on without any sealant (minus a few spots I used grey RTV on to get it to stay in place. TQ'ed to 17 ft-lbs is that right?

-What should my oil pressure be after this BSE? All stock motor basically (Was ~10psi warm and ~80psi cold start before.)

Also, I did the full BSE removing both shafts and installing new bearings flipped 180*.

I'd clean the pan with gasoline.

Some people don't coat the gasket, some do. I copper sprayed mine. It's all preference.

Oil pressure should be what you stated. Anything over 100 psi cold needs to be ported. I'd shoot for 10-20 psi warm at idle. You will need to port, guranteed.

 

[bryanwheat]

I'd clean the pan with purple power. For sealant, there is no need for anything on the oil pump side. The pan needs to be sealed with a bead of grey rtv though. Make sure that both surfaces are clean of all old sealant and oil, and DO NOT let the rtv skin up before installing the pan. Install the pan and torque the bolts directly after applying the rtv.

 

[92AWDHX40]

You'll find that doing that job not bad make sure you keep track of those bolts and where they go makes it easier.