seriouse idle, reving, driving, problems...with video please watch

[Simadowna119]

when i start the car up it acts fine untill warmed up then it drops down to 300 RPMs ideling real low but every few seconds it jumps up to 1200 RPMs and then goes back to 300 rpm

when you rev it it revs fine but wont rev past 5000 rpm and if you just hold the throttle at one steady pace it just cuts in and out in and out..ect.

i drove the car down the road and it cuts out real bad in first(1st isnt even drivable)

it does the same thing in 2nd unluss i feather the clutch

but once you put it in 3rd it runs fine and 4th 5th seems normal too (as long as you keep it running). but thats only if you have it floord, if you try to drive normal it just cuts out then back in ect...k


ive changed the plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body and put new gaskets and replaced ISC O ring, i did the bss adjustment but it had litterally no affect on the way the car ran not even when i was playing with the idle screw

i have no vaccume leaks i dont think, i didnt think it was a sensor cause there is no check engine light on....

i tried putting my buddies MAF on it and that didnt change anything, i unpluged the ISC sencor and it kinda rund the same but stays at like 1500 instead of 300 RPMs

i unplugged the other sencor and it ran exactly the same so i figured it mught be that but im lost and dont know what yo do/look for

thanks

 

[Simadowna119]

ok ill check that tomorrow..... here is another video i recorded of it just ideling.... and i forgot to menchin that the check engine light comes on when its idleing but as soon as i give it any throttle the CEL goes off...and once it idles down, back on.....DSCN5611.flv video by Simadowna119 - Photobucket

also at the end of this vid the car dies..this is the first time its done that and it and no power.... but i had to tighten the negative battery ternimal apparantly it was loose..

while i was looking around i wanted to see the ohms on this sensor cause its all ragady... it didnt put anything out wich probably means it isnt working.... anybody know wich one this is? http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg65/Simadowna119/DSCN5608.jpg <a href="http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg65/Simadowna119/?action=view&current=DSCN5609.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg65/Simadowna119/DSCN5609.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

so anny suggestions on what the problem may be? i really dont want to have to take this thing to a local shop....scared ill get ripped off/charged alot.... but its starting to look like my only option....

 

[SrKegler]

Pretty sure that's the plug for your A/C fan sensor, the white plug on your t/stat housing.

 

[SrKegler]

It's not the plug for the fan, it's the plug for the a/c sensor. You can see where it goes on the right side of the picture.

It really isn't contributing to the problem he is having though.

 

[romeen]

1) If you know any local DSMers see if you can borrow a MAS (mass air sensor) to swap yours out to see if that makes any difference. You can also try unplugging the MAS while car is idling to see if anything changes with how the motor is running. Supposedly, if there is no change when unplugged then the MAS might be bad but in my experience this is not completely reliable.

2) Test your Power Transistor Unit. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/229419-how-test-power-transistors.html

3) Open up your ECU and look for leaking capacitors or any other obvious problems.


Have you scanned for any diagnostic trouble codes?

 

[LKWTSI]

Have you tried to pull the CEL code. I noticed the CEL light flash on your first video. See if you have any stored codes and maybe it'll help you look in the right direction.

try following this link for how to: ECU Code Checking

 

[redyute1]

Pull the ecu and check for leaking caps

 

[Simadowna119]

ok i have a volt meter so ima check the ECU codes and and test the power transistors tomorrow... and im going to go look at the ECU now for leaking tonight sometime.... ill let you all know........

thanks guys


oh also i unplugged the MAF (i didnt think it was that cause the car came with an old one that i tried but it may be bad also) and it idle the same like really low...and it revs the same it just does kick back up to 1100 rpm every few seconds like it normally does....im going to the junkyard to get one tomorrow to see if thats it....

i just drove the car with the Mass Air Flow sensor unplugged...the car does not surge up and down even though it still idles real low it doesnt surge and it doesnt cut out at all when driving it.... it just hesitates to cut in when you give it throttle its like it takes a second to go but im really starting to think this massairflow sonsor is bad..... what do you guys think?

 

[LKWTSI]

Maybe, but a simpler way to narrow the problem, is to pull codes and see what the ECU is telling you.

Just my 0.2c.

 

[quayzar590awd]

hmm my car wont even begin to run right without the karmen plugged in. I would say try it. At this point you have nothing to lose right.

 

[Simadowna119]

exactly....... its just frustrating

can someone please tell me where my ECU is located?... i pulled off what i think is the ECU yesterday and there was nothing leaking and everything looked fine.. but im not sure what i was looking at is actually the ECU... can someone tell me where it is?

just went and hgot the 12v electric buzzer (that i think i need) to pull the CEL code...

i want to test the pwer transistors and have the tools to do this but i dont know what a power transistor is or where it is located, can someone help me with this?...pictures maybe?.....

thanks

 

[LKWTSI]

The ECU is located behind the radio, on the center console. It's typically goldish in color and if you pull the carpeted transmission covers off, you should be able to see and unplug it. To test the ECU for codes follow my previous link to that help page. The test plug for pulling your codes is up under the left side of the driver side kick panel. It may have a black plastic cover over it or it may just look like a open female plug end.

I've tried attaching a pic' of what it looks like, If it doesn't work, just do a search for ecu codes and you'll find lots of threads that have pic's attached.

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/7070/picture0038ro.jpg

 

[Simadowna119]

i tried to pull the codes but the buzzer i have just wasnt making any noises...i just bought it... and im sure i used the correct prongs....idk it doesnt matter, i took my ECU out and looked at the mopther board or whatever and there is one little spot were it look like one of the lil things in there is corroded and there is also another spot were there is a lil oil looking stuff..it is very minimal not alot but i think the ECU may be my problem...i found one on ebay that gives yopu a 5 day trail so ill probly get that one and if it doesnt fix the problem ill return it.....but im guessing thats the problem....250 more dollars out of my pocket

 

[rocketjr]

Apparently no one warned you when you said you wanted a DSM. DSMer's are typically a rare bread of people that enjoy these types of problems and fixing them to find another one later. Time, money and persistance and you will be able to fix any DSM problem. Sounds like you are on the right path though.

Your type of problem usually resides in a pressure leak or electronic failure.

Since you said you did a boost leak test to 20 lbs and that looked good then start picking at the electronics.

It looks like you have checked and or replaced most of the smaller sensors so the MAF and the ECU appear to be the last 2 culprits.

Double check the MAF and if you are going to remain a DSMer after this you will need to get familiar with getting your codes pulled from the ECU. Either find a friend with a scanner, get DSM Link or other ECU that you can read the codes in or figure out how to read the codes. If you drove the car without the MAF attached then you will definately have a code in the ECU (if it is functioning properly). Once you get your replacement ECU disconnect the MAF sensor to get the code and test yourself on retrieving the code.

Keep at it. Good luck!