seriouse idle, reving, driving, problems...with video please watch

[Simadowna119]

when i start the car up it acts fine untill warmed up then it drops down to 300 RPMs ideling real low but every few seconds it jumps up to 1200 RPMs and then goes back to 300 rpm

when you rev it it revs fine but wont rev past 5000 rpm and if you just hold the throttle at one steady pace it just cuts in and out in and out..ect.

i drove the car down the road and it cuts out real bad in first(1st isnt even drivable)

it does the same thing in 2nd unluss i feather the clutch

but once you put it in 3rd it runs fine and 4th 5th seems normal too (as long as you keep it running). but thats only if you have it floord, if you try to drive normal it just cuts out then back in ect...k


ive changed the plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body and put new gaskets and replaced ISC O ring, i did the bss adjustment but it had litterally no affect on the way the car ran not even when i was playing with the idle screw

i have no vaccume leaks i dont think, i didnt think it was a sensor cause there is no check engine light on....

i tried putting my buddies MAF on it and that didnt change anything, i unpluged the ISC sencor and it kinda rund the same but stays at like 1500 instead of 300 RPMs

i unplugged the other sencor and it ran exactly the same so i figured it mught be that but im lost and dont know what yo do/look for

thanks

 

[greenydsm]

any cel's?

 

[Simadowna119]

to be honest i dont know what that means....... can you explain?

 

[GSTyler]

Check engine lights.

 

[Simadowna119]

no, no cels

 

[ilco187]

and you said this only happens when it warms up or does it do it almost all the time no matter the temp.

 

[All_Boost16G]

The running up to 5000rpm and then studdering sounds like a boost leak to me. I would also make sure your IAC is good, and maybe check to make sure your idle stop is correctly set on your throttle body.

 

[Simadowna119]

and you said this only happens when it warms up or does it do it almost all the time no matter the temp.

pretty much all the time except for when you first start it up.... it will run ok for a few seconds and then it drops down to 300 rpm jumping up to 1500 rpm every few seconds like its trying to keep itself from dying

are you sure it isnt a misfire

i dont know i dont really know how to tell if its a misfire but i dont think it is....

oh and i unplugged my idle air control and it did not run any differently so maybe it is that.... but would that cause it to cut out when driving?

 

[1SickAuto]

check the CAS. it could be 180 out or just going bad

 

[Simadowna119]

check the CAS. it could be 180 out or just going bad

what is the CAS?

for those who havent read in my other threads.... my car idles high when started cold, once it is warm it drops down to 3 or 4 hundred RPMs and bounces back up every few seconds to about 1200 rpm..(did not really let it warm up enough for you to see it bog all the way down to 300 rpm)

when you rev the engine it revs fine untill 5000 rpm then makes a really horrable noise like it revs PAST 7000 RPMs but on the tach the needle never goes past 5000.... and it does this by itself like once it gets to 5000 rpm i let out but it does the horrable over rev on its own. (did not do this in the video cause ive only done it twice and it just sounds like it hurts the motor)

now if you just hold the throttle down at any level at a free rev(in neutral) it just cuts in and out in and out (shown in video)

when you take it for a drive it goes up to like 2500 rpm and then cuts out no matter what gear then it will cut back in then out then in ect.,,,, but if you just mash the throttle down it runs fine turbo builds 9 pnds and everything seems ok..... as soon as you go back to driving it normall it goes back to cutting in and out in and out...(shown in video) i dont say it every time but every time you see the camera getting all jerked around the car cut out

i have changed the plugs, i have checked the idle screw and replaced the O ring under it, ive replaced the MAF, ISC, and IAC,( those three sensors are parts i got from a junkyard ) i have taken the throttle body off cleaned it and replaced gaskets, i have checked all my vaccume hoses for leaks but only with my eyes not with leak tester... and tried the BISS adjustment wich had no affect at all on the car

have not been getting any CELs untill tonight when i recorded the video and it only blinked a few times i think...

ive only had the car for maybe 2 weeks... this is so devistating for me, all i want is a DSM.... please help

DSCN5606.flv video by Simadowna119 - Photobucket

i forgot to menchin that in order for it to run fine while driving i have to dump the clutch a lil but.... (this is why i did the burn out, not cause i wanted to but cause i had to just to get going) sorry i forgot to turn the gauges on at first

 

[decathect]

1. Do a boost leak test before you do any further diagnosis.

2. Test your ISC and replace it if any of the coils are bad:
DSM simple test page

Then come back to us.

 

[Simadowna119]

im sorry i know this may sound retarted to you but i know nothing about electronics... i dont know what olms are.... can you tell me what tool i need to buy to test all the sensors? im sure after i have whatever i need to do the test ill be able to figure it out from there

 

[USER_22]

You can buy a ohms tester and here's a page that may help you a bit. Clicky.

 

[Simadowna119]

and if i had a boost leak or vaccume leak would it cause my car to act that wierd?

 

[greenydsm]

please go buy a haynes manual from advanced or auto zone

there only like 15 bucks and will explain everything to you.


there kinda the dsmer's bible

 

[USER_22]

and if i had a boost leak or vaccume leak would it cause my car to act that wierd?

Yeah it would. What is the boost gauge reading while it's running? Do you have a datalogger, it would be very beneficial in this situation.

 

[Simadowna119]

no i dont have one.... when the car is running in neutral it is at like negative 7 psi or so and when i rev the motor no matter how high or hard i rev it it never goes past 0 psi.. but when i drive it and give full throttle it builds about 8 or 9 psi....

im going to buy a ohm meter tomorrow and check all the sensors but i need to find out how to do a boost leak test.

 

[decathect]

You should be able to get whats called a 'multimeter' that allows you to test resistance, voltage, etc. These are available lots of places - radio shack, walmart, most auto parts stores...

Boost leak tester:
IC Pipe Tester

 

[Boot92]

first off.

Raise your idle if its at 300. thats a big no no. cuase they stop being fed oil at 500 rpms.

second try adjusting your Dead Speed Screw, and your Idle Speed Screw on your TB, that should steady out the idle

I'm not too sure about the cutting out.

I would suggest getting a manual for that part. they have a problem diagnostics in there that im pretty sure covers your problem

 

[Simadowna119]

^^^ read my the first long post i wrote.... ive done all that already.... it doesnt change anything...

are you sure it isnt a misfire

you tell me
DSCN5606.flv video by Simadowna119 - Photobucket

 

[Boot92]

try pullin out the Cruise Control then.

if those screws dont do anything, somethins ####ing ## throttle system up, and my first solution to try is pullin the Cruise Control (Its not that hard)

 

[Simadowna119]

try pullin out the Cruise Control then.

if those screws dont do anything, somethins ####ing ## throttle system up, and my first solution to try is pullin the Cruise Control (Its not that hard)

trry to pull the cruise control? what would that do for me?

 

[mitch86]

I would do a boost leak test then try adjusting the idle screw on the TB as previously suggested.

 

[Simadowna119]

by the way, boost leak test failed.....well, i shouldnt say it failed, i just dont have any boost leaks... proceeding to testing all the sensors....

did the boost leak test....no boost leaks... no air no noises leaking from any vaccumed areas....or anywahere i mean..... going to buy a multimeter right now but i just wanted to ask.... when i first got the car... the guy i bought it from ripped the oil cooler off when backing it off the trailer so i just had to trust him and he let me take his 1500 dollar trailer for collaterall until he brought me the new oil cooler and lines.... so i never got to drive it be he did start it up and let it run for a bit before he tried backing it off the trailer and made an ass of himself.......... the car ran/idled PERFECT.... nothing like it runs/idles now....... when i first got the car home i started shop vaccing it out and my dad wanted to pressure wash under the hood so i told him he could... i didnt know if anything needed to be covered up but he said no it will be fine....


do you think that when he pressure washed it he could have messed something up like a sensor or something?

cause it didnt run like this when the guy before me had it im sure cause he let me hear it over the phone also when i was first interested.... and after i got the oil cooler in with new oil and filter it immediatly was ideling/running all messed up... so im just wondering if that may have been what caused the problem.???

1. Do a boost leak test before you do any further diagnosis.

2. Test your ISC and replace it if any of the coils are bad:
DSM simple test page

Then come back to us.

ok so i did the boost leak test. it held 20 psi no problems, noises, leaks...... it suprised me..... i went down to the hardware store and bought a multimeter thoughroly reaserching on how they work... i tested the

IdleStepperControl.. it was good...31 ohms between all the prongs..... suppost to be between 28 and 33

ThrottlePositionSensor.. suppost to be 3500-6500 ohms...the meter i bought only measured up to 2000 ohms and it would spike up to 2000 going past its limit. its probably fine. and i measured the resistance between prong 2 and 4 while twisting the throttle and it changed smoothely like its suppost to.

IdlePositionSwitch.. showed continuity when closed and open when open at all...just like its suppost to.

BoostControlSolenoid.. 39 ohms suppost to be between 36 and 46 ohms..

made another video...will post it tonight...



any suggestions????? anyone please?

 

[quayzar590awd]

did the boost leak test....no boost leaks... no air no noises leaking from any vaccumed areas....or anywahere i mean..... going to buy a multimeter right now but i just wanted to ask.... when i first got the car... the guy i bought it from ripped the oil cooler off when backing it off the trailer so i just had to trust him and he let me take his 1500 dollar trailer for collaterall until he brought me the new oil cooler and lines.... so i never got to drive it be he did start it up and let it run for a bit before he tried backing it off the trailer and made an ass of himself.......... the car ran/idled PERFECT.... nothing like it runs/idles now....... when i first got the car home i started shop vaccing it out and my dad wanted to pressure wash under the hood so i told him he could... i didnt know if anything needed to be covered up but he said no it will be fine....


do you think that when he pressure washed it he could have messed something up like a sensor or something?

cause it didnt run like this when the guy before me had it im sure cause he let me hear it over the phone also when i was first interested.... and after i got the oil cooler in with new oil and filter it immediatly was ideling/running all messed up... so im just wondering if that may have been what caused the problem.???

You cant really pressure wash sensitive electronics while they are water resistant they are DEF not water proof. I had the same thing happen to me, I parked her in my garage closed the door turned my ready heater 500000 btu on for about four hours. when I walked back in there is was about 112 degrees . I started the car and she fired right up and purred like the evil warbird she is. Swapping the oil cooler wouldnt make your car runs like it is. If it got starved for oil she would have spun a bearing within two minutes of it running w/o oil. Try to force some air onto the sensors to dry them out and you might get lucky like i did. Hope this helps you. also take the plugs off the injectors and hit it with a blow dryer or something. water likes to stay in there and turn to vapor when it gets hot. Your oil psi looked fine in the video. Check all the oil lines to see if they got installed correctly.