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Rust inside the cylinder

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hedrick

15+ Year Contributor
72
1
May 16, 2007
Bremerton, Washington
I bought a 91 GSX with bent valves for cheap. When I removed the head I found rust inside the #2 cylinder and the freeze plug behind the block was pushed out. Im looking for opinions on if this engine will smoke If I don't remove the block and get it machined properly? Keep in mind I was not planning on keeping the car.

<a href="http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s285/hedricm/?action=view&current=CIMG1987.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s285/hedricm/CIMG1987.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
If the only problem is rust then you are okay. You can disolve suface rust, then soak it in lubricant. You will need to unbolt the Pistons and Put a new set of rings on them. They wont oil right with rust in the rings. Then Hone the bore with a Honing tool. Thin will clean the surface and provide a non directional surface to hold oil. As long as the surface rust comes off clean with a Honing tool the block does not need to be machined ( its a good idea but you could get away with it at that point) Prep the Rings and Pistons with assemboly lube and lube the rod bearings with lube as well. I believe it will be fine but you must remove all deposits, lubricate it and make sure the rings will seal ( by replaceing them IMO)

I think the engine could be revivable without machine work. If I am wronge and you end up needing it machined instead of just honed then you didnt waste any money. You will not know till you try. Just try and make sure everything fits. If it does put new rings in a let her rip.

Codename: Upgrade, Xbox 360 Talon
 
Motor is toast, you have to strip it down and bore it over the rust has gotten to a critical state. Youll need a new piston so you might as well get a set of new stockers or mildly build the motor.

You cannot hone than out, cause then youll need oversize pistons and rings to make up the slack. You use the stock piston which cant be cause its rusted and toast but you get piton slap with that cylinder cause the over size bore with a stock piston.
 
I used acid to dissolve the rust on the cylinder walls and put light surface scratches on the walls using scotch brite. It looks better than I hoped. ie. no pitting in the cylinder walls. I soaked all the cylinder walls with WD 40 to prevent more rust. I think its going to be just fine. Thanks for the input!
 
Here is a picture of the cylinders. I had trouble replacing the valves because the new valves did not lap in correctly. I could see about 1/4 of each valve seat did not cut at all. This was a problem but good thing I have 2 extra heads. Hopefully I can get this thing running soon!

<a href="http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s285/hedricm/?action=view&current=CIMG2000.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s285/hedricm/CIMG2000.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Wow those pits in the cylinder walls are really not gonna help your motor at all.

If you can feel them then you Have to rebuild and bore that block over to use it.

Also not gonna help when the rings cant do there job cause there is a hole in the wall and the rings wont do there job if they cant seal oil from coming to the top half of the motor.

If it runs, it will run like crap and smoke like crazy.

Like i said before it needs rebuilt and bored over if you even wanna save that block
 
Wow those pits in the cylinder walls are really not gonna help your motor at all.

If you can feel them then you Have to rebuild and bore that block over to use it.

Also not gonna help when the rings cant do there job cause there is a hole in the wall and the rings wont do there lob if they cant seal oil from coming to the top half of the motor.

If it runs, it will run like crap and smoke like crazy


+1 remove and rebuild.
 
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