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Rotors warping - need insight on upgrade/replacement

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DsmKid98GST

15+ Year Contributor
133
3
Aug 25, 2005
Winter Springs, Florida
First off, I'm not looking for anything super fancy or super expensive.

I just want something that will work great and work for a long time.

The rotors are warping and it's time to change the brakes out before the situation becomes worse. I did a search and I didn't find much info on good quality brake kit.

I'm looking to change the rotors/pads/calipers. I believe that's what a kit includes. Which kit / vendors should I go with for each of the parts or an all in one deal.

As I'm modding more, I'd like to stop the car quick and reliably. I don't want rotors that will break on me and just look cool. Reliable is the thing i'm looking for. If any of you autocrossers out there have experience with the type of items i'm describing here please let me know. I do not autocross but i'd like to have the power of the brakes you all use with me while i'm daily driving and at the track.

Should I just upgrade the front brake setup since it seems that it's just the front rotors going bad or should I just knock em out in one shot. I am on a pretty tight budget and i'm looking to spend less than 600 on the entire setup.

Thanks
 
Should I just upgrade the front brake setup since it seems that it's just the front rotors going bad or should I just knock em out in one shot. I am on a pretty tight budget and i'm looking to spend less than 600 on the entire setup.

Haven't installed mine yet, but I got a full kit from VIPGarage. Included 4 HP Centric Rotors, full set of Metal Masters Pads, SS lines, and Hi-Perf. Super Blue ATE brake fluid. $500 Shipped to my door.

This link for pics of the kit.
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246354

This link for kit info.
http://www.vipgarageonline.com/store/item/1epcq/Brake_Kits/Full_Hi-Per_Kit_w/_Metal_Masters.html

Haven't installed them yet, but from what I can see, these will knock the heck out of a stock setup.
 
First off, I'm not looking for anything super fancy or super expensive.

I just want something that will work great and work for a long time.

The rotors are warping and it's time to change the breaks out before the situation becomes worse. I did a search and I didn't find much info on good quality break kit.

I'm looking to change the rotors/pads/calipers. I believe that's what a kit includes. Which kit / vendors should I go with for each of the parts or an all in one deal.

As I'm modding more, I'd like to stop the car quick and reliably. I don't want rotors that will break on me and just look cool. Reliable is the thing i'm looking for. If any of you autocrossers out there have experience with the type of items i'm describing here please let me know. I do not autocross but i'd like to have the power of the breaks you all use with me while i'm daily driving and at the track.

Should I just upgrade the front brake setup since it seems that it's just the front rotors going bad or should I just knock em out in one shot. I am on a pretty tight budget and i'm looking to spend less than 600 on the entire setup.

Thanks




If you're looking for a cheap way to upgrade your brake system, please look through the thread below:


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184965


I looked through your modification list, and did not see any upgrades to your existing brake system, so I will assume that your system is stock. This means that you have the single piston calipers and the 10.2" rotors. Upgrading to the 1995-1999 GSX two-piston calipers (and 11" rotors) should suit you just fine. :) Don't forget to pick up some quality brake pads and replace the old rubber brake lines with new stainless steel brake lines. For the track days, go with a better temp-resistant brake fluid. For daily driving, DOT 3 or DOT4 brake fuild will be just dandy.
 
Sweet, thanks for the info.

What is the difference in the different makes of the rotors - Blanks/Slotted/Cross Drilled/Dimple Drilled/Slot&Cross/Slot&Dimple?

I'm not really looking for a DIY setup. I'd much prefer a direct bolt on setup.

Will the 95-99 GSX rotors/calipers fit right up to a GST? Is this only for the front two of the car or for all four?
 
Sweet, thanks for the info.

What is the difference in the different makes of the rotors - Blanks/Slotted/Cross Drilled/Dimple Drilled/Slot&Cross/Slot&Dimple?

I'm not really looking for a DIY setup. I'd much prefer a direct bolt on setup.

Will the 95-99 GSX rotors/calipers fit right up to a GST? Is this only for the front two of the car or for all four?

Well I'd say you could save some money by doing a DIY, more or less. Good way to learn. And yes the 95-99 GSX rotors/calipers will bolt up. Also, if you can't find them off a GSX, you can try finding them off a base model 3000GT. That's where I got mine.
 
You can go ahead & get better pads & rotors for your current single piston setup but I would atleast spend abit extra and get the dual piston caliper setup from the gsx. It will be a complete bolt on to your gst if you get 95 or later calipers. If you go with the 1g calipers you will need brake lines with a screw in fitting instead of the 95+ banjo bolt. Since its best to get SS lines while your at it anyways, it doesn't make much diffference which calipers you get as RRE has the SS lines for both setups on a 2g. If your willing to spend abit extra you could go with a Wilwood big brake kit, with a 2 piece 12.2" rotor & 4 piston calipers. I had the normal gst worped rotors & wasn't even very hard on the brakes, I origionally was going to go with the gsx upgrade but for a couple hundred more I stepped up to this setup & can't be happier. While its not a full track kit, it is more then enough brake for the road. I've ran them for a year & am still as happy with them as when I origionally installed them. With the stock setup I would experience brake fad fairly quickly with only one high speed stop, I have pushed these brakes to see what they'd do & have yet to experience any fade. If you have anymore question on this setup let me know, or if you search Wilwood I have made several posts on this setup.
 
The rotors are warping and it's time to change the brakes out before the situation becomes worse.
"Warping" is a misnomer but the term is so prevalent, it's probably never going to go away. The condition often referred to as warping is uneven wear caused by run out. If the rotor is not spinning in a flat plane, eventually uneven wear occurs during non-braking. The unevenness can be felt during braking as a pulsing in the pedal and often an oscillation in the steering wheel.

If run out has been a problem for you in the past, or if you are really serious about reducing or preventing it, take the time to test the run out when you mount new rotors and optimize their mounting orientation.
 
"Warping" is a misnomer but the term is so prevalent, it's probably never going to go away. The condition often referred to as warping is uneven wear caused by run out. If the rotor is not spinning in a flat plane, eventually uneven wear occurs during non-braking. The unevenness can be felt during braking as a pulsing in the pedal and often an oscillation in the steering wheel.

If run out has been a problem for you in the past, or if you are really serious about reducing or preventing it, take the time to test the run out when you mount new rotors and optimize their mounting orientation.

What about heavy sustained braking? Or heavy continual heat cycling on older worn rotors?


You can also 'warp' the rotors by seriously overtorqueing the lugs.
 
What about heavy sustained braking? Or heavy continual heat cycling on older worn rotors?

You can also 'warp' the rotors by seriously overtorqueing the lugs.
You forgot to mention stopping and keeping the brakes applied with an overheated disc. Yes, it is possible to warp a disc and it would result in thin spots similar to those caused by run out.
 
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