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Warping Rotor Theory...

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Zerocygnal

20+ Year Contributor
641
1
Jul 1, 2002
Springfield, Ohio
Rear rotors on 1G cars are subject to warping under almost any condition, wether new or resurfaced. I mic'ed the surface of the rotor and took note of the different thicknesses and it appears to be on the outer most part of the diameter that warps really bad. (causing that annoying as hell shaking when you slow from 60mph or more). After looking over the rear caliper structure of my old brake system I remembered how the rear calipers have the hinge that allows them to swing upwards and clear the rotor when removing them. When we installed the new rotor and torqued down caliper we installed the rear wheels. We raised the car on the lift and started it up, placed it in gear and accelerated a little lighter than usual because the weight of the car obviously wasn't coming into play at this point. When the speedometer hit 60mph I had him slow down normally as I watched the brake assembly through the rim. (Again without the weight of the car, I don't have the materials I need to do this with the weight of the car.) And what I saw was the caliper shifting on that hinge. When you let go of the brake it moves back into place. A Honda accord has single piston rear calipers and 12" brake rotors and does not seem to have this problem, so I couldn't understand why 1G DSM's had. It appears that the hinged caliper design is causing the problem...

If anyone has the materials to do the same test "WITH" the weight of the car please document what you find. A dynomometer for AWD would work perfectly. However I think you will find the same results....
 
So you're saying that the "floating" caliper design is what caused warped rotors? In order to warp your rotors, you'd have be get those calipers so hot from braking so hard that it creates hot spots on the rotor, causing it warp. I don't think the floating caliper design would be the cause. You can try and convert to a fixed caliper and do your test again. Both calipers pretty much do the same thing.
 
-Was told by instructors at driving school not to use the hand brake on a park car after finnish lapping but use wheel blocks instead, b/c with the hand brake engage, the brake pads creat un-even cooling on the rotor causing it to wrap.
 
Originally posted by turboholic
-Was told by instructors at driving school not to use the hand brake on a park car after finnish lapping but use wheel blocks instead, b/c with the hand brake engage, the brake pads creat un-even cooling on the rotor causing it to wrap.
Very true. :thumb:
 
i did not know that and i drive my car hard where ever i go and when i park i always use my hand break. maybe that's how i warped my rotors.
also if you come to a full stop from breaking hard it will warp your rotors as well.
 
i think it depends on how you drive it. i just recently replaced my fron rotors and calipers. you should see the heat spots on it. a piece of the caliper hardware broke, so the pad was always on the rotor and even though they were the powerstop rotors they couldn't cool quick enough. i will get some pictures when i can. it is amazing how bad it is.
 
well i have aem's big break kit with drilled and slotted rotors and i took the dust covers off. heat spotted and warped .. resurfaced within less than 2 years and thats with ebc's reds kevlar pads
 
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