dizily555
Proven Member
- 112
- 3
- May 30, 2013
-
North Mankato,
Minnesota
Still having an idle problem with my 95 gsx and it has got WORSE.
Last week in the morning I started my car with the OBD2 scanner reading the coolant temp at 150 or so. All of a sudden I see the coolant temp shoot to 311, the cooling fans kick on, and my wideband is pegged at 10.0 rich while the poor car bogs down and barely idles at a terrible 400 rpm. Immediately I replace the already new sensor "I work at O'Reillys so warranting out a part is a cake walk" and the issue stays the same. I then take my BLT to it and find that a egr vacuum hose fell off and the line for my boost gauge was leaking after fixing these I can hold 20 psi. Start the car problem didn't change. This left me with what I can only assume is a perfectly ready motor with a bad ECU as I found out its re-manufactured. I was under the impression that it was stuck in OPEN loop and dumping gas in. After letting the car sit for a few days brain storming I decided to take the leap and buy a ERPOM with v3 so I can see exactly whats going on. I received everything the other day but before I just plugged in the "new" ecu I tried to start it again to find that it doesn't idle then read a high coolant temp instead it barely starts and tries its best to run rich but it wont run on its own. The new ECU did the same thing. I am still working on getting my laptop to connect to the ecu so I can try to get a log and see whats wrong but thats another thread. Anyone have any idea? I believe it is something mechanical rather than ECU related and I'm missing something.
Two observations I've made from running to the current state.
1. At idle before on my crappy Bosch OBD2 scanner the maf would read at around .7 volts. When it tries to idle it reads at .27 volts.
2. With ECMLink I was planning on deleting my rear o2 sensor as it does not seem to be cycling like the upstream. From my understanding the downstream wouldn't cause such an issue but I thought it was notable.
Last week in the morning I started my car with the OBD2 scanner reading the coolant temp at 150 or so. All of a sudden I see the coolant temp shoot to 311, the cooling fans kick on, and my wideband is pegged at 10.0 rich while the poor car bogs down and barely idles at a terrible 400 rpm. Immediately I replace the already new sensor "I work at O'Reillys so warranting out a part is a cake walk" and the issue stays the same. I then take my BLT to it and find that a egr vacuum hose fell off and the line for my boost gauge was leaking after fixing these I can hold 20 psi. Start the car problem didn't change. This left me with what I can only assume is a perfectly ready motor with a bad ECU as I found out its re-manufactured. I was under the impression that it was stuck in OPEN loop and dumping gas in. After letting the car sit for a few days brain storming I decided to take the leap and buy a ERPOM with v3 so I can see exactly whats going on. I received everything the other day but before I just plugged in the "new" ecu I tried to start it again to find that it doesn't idle then read a high coolant temp instead it barely starts and tries its best to run rich but it wont run on its own. The new ECU did the same thing. I am still working on getting my laptop to connect to the ecu so I can try to get a log and see whats wrong but thats another thread. Anyone have any idea? I believe it is something mechanical rather than ECU related and I'm missing something.
Two observations I've made from running to the current state.
1. At idle before on my crappy Bosch OBD2 scanner the maf would read at around .7 volts. When it tries to idle it reads at .27 volts.
2. With ECMLink I was planning on deleting my rear o2 sensor as it does not seem to be cycling like the upstream. From my understanding the downstream wouldn't cause such an issue but I thought it was notable.
