[RESOLVED] wheel bearing stuck siezed to spline

[Silver 95 GST]

Hi Everyone,

I am replacing my front left wheel bearing and can't push the axle out of the wheel bearing. It's siezed up!

I crumbled the axle using a puller to push the axle out. What should I do next?
Thanks to all for advice.

 

[All_Boost16G]

Usually you can get them from like a farm and tractor store, or welding store. Should cost you around 100$ to get a setup, but you'll love it for the rest of your life, I barely use mine right now, but if I have to I can. Last time I torched the heads off the bolts that hold the flywheel on.

 

[All_Boost16G]

Yea thats perfect for a garage do it yourselfer.

 

[Silver 95 GST]

Ok I went out and got a $350 oxy acetylene welding kit and got ready to get the axle out of my hub.

But wait the directions say it comes with "EMPTY" cylinders and I have to exchange them!!!!!!!!


No cylinder exchange is open till Monday??????

So now I have to stare at my broke-ass car for two days before I can continue???

 

[squeak104]

On the fiance's car I took the spindle, axle and all to my friend who owns a welding shop and he used an arc gouger to basically cut the bearing and axle out. Its a lot like a stick welder but it uses compressed air behind it to blow the slag away as it burns through. Makes for a clean melt away of the metal in the way. Some slag landed on the rotor that was also stuck and it very easily flaked away with a screwdriver. May end up being one of your only options.

 

[Silver 95 GST]

OK I couldn't wait for the welding cylinders so I positioned a map gas torch on the outside axle and a propane on the inside for like 20 min.


Then I got mad with the 8lb sledge and moved the axle an inch!!!!!!!!!!

After that inch the castle nut bottomed out on the hub but this is a huge breakthrough.

I think I'll go get another puller now because I'm tired from hammering.

 

[Kokomoguy30]

Had the same thing. I got a oxy-propane cutting torch and just cut thru the bearing. took a while but I got it out. Then all you have to do is get a new bearing and a new half shaft.

 

[Silver 95 GST]

GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK got the axle out of the hub.

Then to get the seized hub out of the knuckle.
-Hack saw thu the top two "feet/flanges" of the hub about a half inch. Then hammer a thin draft between hub and knuck, first separating, then working your way around the hub and knuckle.

Oh I also went through eight cut off wheels on the dremel to cut through the axle. This wasn't really necessary, but I already destroyed it and it made it a little easier to move the cv in the hub while I tried to get the hub out. Then separate lateral arms at frame and remove bolt at bottom of damper fork to get axle out. I'm going to get new bolts and drown everything in antiseize when it goes back together, especially between hub/knuckle.


Comments?

 

[shredwin]

I had the same proble with my old 98 TSI.. I used a lot of PB blaster, I kinda ruined the threads from pounding on the axle so hard... I had a machine shop rethread it though

 

[costas14]

God damm it. HOW MANY TIMES DO I HAVE TO POST THIS

Call your local dealer

1.Order a new spindle and it might come with the 2 lower control arms.
2.Get a new bearing and axle

Problem solved. Or you can sit there like a moron and hammer forever and it wont come out. Your choice!

 

[Silver 95 GST]

Gee thanks costas14. But I think my way was better.

I RULE!!!!!!!!!!

 

[shredwin]

Gee thanks costas14. But I think my way was better.

I RULE!!!!!!!!!!

and maybe a little cheaper

 

[costas14]

Nope because when your lower control arms go have fun changing them, instead you coudla changed them now and the dealer throws the control arms pretty much free with the spindle!

 

[RacingEclipse]

BFH or junk yard parts FTW!!! times are hard who wants to spend hundreds of dollars on a stupid part that might not cost them anything or next to nothing by just putting some time into it? I am still having the same situation with my 96. I refuse to buy new parts for it especially from the dealers. Im going to crazy rays this sat and getting a full spindle, hubs, and control arms all attached for $35 a side and $23 for a driver side window. Eat that dealerships!!!!

 

[Ahsieh2]

You need this type of puller...

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I have seen a similar puller to this that I think would work better. Instead of a bar to press against the axle there is an attachment for a slide hammer. It makes more sense to me that this would work better since the impact would help jar it loose. I just haven't seen one lately. Actually, that puller could probably work with a slide hammer, just unscrew the rod all the way and put the slide hammer through the middle with a big nut on it.

 

[RacingEclipse]

I went to the junk yard this weekend and found a chrysler sebring with no front end damage and nothing seized up or rusted on the hubs and spindles. Everything came off with little to no effort. I wound up getting both driver and passanger side hubs and spindles attached, a driver side window, gas tank lid, shift boot, interior plastic pieces for driver side door and center console and it only cost me $81. Thats a hell of a deal for the little bit of work i had to do to get it. All parts are on the car now aqdn worked perfectly with no issues.