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Residual oil on head/exhaust mani

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2nd Gen Mnstr

10+ Year Contributor
77
0
Feb 7, 2012
Madison, Wisconsin
Alright so i have been having this problem for a while and cannot figure it out. When i open my hood right under the valve cover on the bolts of the exhaust mani and inbetween there is a good amount or residual oil forming. i have wiped it off many times and it always seems to come back. I just replaced the valve cover gasket and thead is no cracked. any idea on what it might be? :pray:
 
The bottom center exhaust mani stud is factory threaded into an oil return port in the head.

Pull and clean this stud.
Pull the VC, and look right behind that stud.
Stuff rag in the oil return port.
Spray a tad of brake clean in the stud hole, to remove trace oil.
Remove rag from oil return port.
Place a small dab of RTV on the stud threads.
Install stud back into hole.
Install the VC
Torque center e-mani nut to spec.
 
OP, Were the mating surfaces cleaned properly? Also everytime i use a fresh VC gasket, after a couple of heat cycles i can squish the gasket down more by retightening the bolts. Just dont go crazy tightening the inner bolts. Works everytime. Only have to use RTV very lightly on the corners and by the cam caps.
 
That pic is a bit far away.

Try getting a better, closer one.

Laod it as an attachment in the thread.
 
Did you all ready pull the piston to confirm cracked rings?

Or are you just thinking of that from the result of the compression test?
 
i am just taking a guess. any idea that could cause the symptoms (wet piston top on cylinder 2, residual oil leaking out exhaust mani, bad compression test.) it did get better when i added motor honey to it so i could drive it. :|
 
"Oil residue on exhaust manifold"
Glad people are discussing this on here. i ran into this as well. the very center, lower exhaust mani stud hole is open to an oil return passage in the 2nd gen heads. This must be one of mitsubishi's great ideas. I'm going to try Hydrolic sealer type locktite on this and hope it seals. anyone ever try this?? i think rtv would burn up with the heat from the exhaust...? but i also hope lock tite doesnt rip out my head threads if i need to remove the studs... am i correct or not? thanks guys
 
Permatex ultra copper is rated to 750* should be all you need to seal the center bottom exhaust stud.
 
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