Replacing T25 with another T25

[Maine_2JZ]

So my All Stock 97 GSX auto 122k that i just bought is surging pretty bad under boost, and is allmost impossible to pull ceanly up a hill. Eventually ends up tripping the check engine light (assuming running rich) if you dont drive like a grandma

i did the Boost leak test, thinking there might be a tear in one of my hoses or a loose clamp. all i found was the TB shaft seals leaking, so i put in STM millspec seals and new gaskets and put her back together. This minor leak certainly wasnt enough to cause my problems, but i fixed it anyways.

while i was leak testing, and replacing the TB stuff, i noticed there was a decent amount of oil residue, so im pretty sure my turbo seals are shot, and there was 1/8" -3/16" of radial shaft play in my turbo. I was going to get a 16G, but decided why add any new problems to the mix till i work out the rest of the bugs in this car.

so i just picked up a clean used T25. Having never swapped a turbo, and havent had a chance to look under the hood while thinking about replacing it yet. Any tips you can think of or common problems to watch out for would be helpful...
like, make sure you take the oil line off first, or be carefull not to strip /break this, or you need to work on it from below, make sure to add oil to the turbo so it isnt dry when it starts, or.......?

how long should i plan on this swap out taking. i dont have a garrage/torches/air tools, or a lift, but i can jack up and put on stands if i need to, and i have plenty of sockets and wrenches etc.. to get most jobs done ive found.

Also is there a kit i should buy that has all he gaskets/seals/crush washers, etc..
type stuff i would need, or do i just reuse whats on the car right now?

Thanks

 

[knochgoon24]

Spray some PB Blaster on the nuts and bolts and run the car for a little bit to warm up the PB Blaster. You'll need to have a bottle of coolant handy.

Take the radiator fans out. It takes longer to work around them than it takes to pull them out.

It's a good time to replace gaskets. You'll want exhaust manifold->turbo gasket, a turbo->o2 housing gasket, and a o2 housing -> downpipe gasket.


IIRC, the oil feed is a 7/16" flare nut. It helps to have a flare nut wrench. Get a torque wrench. You'll want to properly torque the bolts when putting everything back together. Too little and they'll come loose. Too much and the bolts will snap when everything heats up.

You'll want 4 new washers for the mani->turbo bolts. They are slightly cone shaped and will keep tension on the bolts so they won't vibrate loose.

That's about all I can think of right now.

 

[streetdsmpwr]

I'm planning on doing pretty much the same thing but with a T-28 soon. You said use a torque wrench for the bolts. About how many ft-lb's should you torque the turbo to manifold bolts, as well as the O2 housing bolts(if you use it on the O2 housing)?

 

[gringo72884]

Follow Knochgoon's advice with the pb blaster and removing the radiator fans....soak the three bolts and single nut on the exhaust manifold to turbo connection. Soak the 2 downpipe nuts as well. I would begin with taking off all coolant hoses first (the black rubber hoses), then loosen and take off the oil feed and oil return lines. The oil feed line you should loosen the connection from the turbo (not from the Oil filter housing), and the oil return line...you should loosen and disconnect from the oil pan (two bolts). Then disconnect the 2 downpipe nuts and then finally the three exhaust manny to turbo bolts and single nut. Things you're going to need to replace are....Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket, turbo to O2 housing gasket, O2 housing to downpipe gasket, oil return line to oil pan gasket. When you install the new turbo and are connecting the oil return line to the oil pan, make sure the mating surfaces are completely clean, flat and that you use RTV on the oil return flange, the gasket and the oil pan. If you do not use RTV it will definitely leak oil. This is a common oil leak spot which many people fail to seal correctly. Also, make sure to put in fresh coolant and to do a oil change in the process. Lastly, prime the new turbo before starting up the car. This will allow fresh oil to circulate and lubricate the bearings, seals, etc. before the car is actually run. Goodluck

 

[Maine_2JZ]

thanks for the tips

would these be all the parts i need ?
DSM gasket kit

 

[gringo72884]

The 7cm exhaust to turbo and o2 housing gaskets are made for bigger turbo's such as an Evo 3 or Big 16G turbo. Make sure to get those two gaskets at the dealer (the dealer has the stock size t-25 gaskets). The washers and oil return gaskets look fine however, from what I can see. (Make sure the oil return gasket is for the T-25 oil return line)