Replacing Struts on 2G, but only have 1G information

[yllsen]

Someone was kind enough to give me the 1G information on replacing the strut. (I plan to get the KYB GR-2's).

Is it good enough to replace the struts on? My friend has replaced dirt bike ones, but not on a car yet and we don't have the service manual.
I have this website http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58353 and another person gave me the 1G chilton's information.

Or do I need to know something about the 2G's that make them different?
Please help. Tank yee.

(And yes I did do a search already and couldn't find that info)

 

[rowlex]

super e-z stuff, unbolt the single bolt at the bottom of the strut where it attaches to the hub (it will be a bolt that is parrellell with the ground, stick a screw driver in it to loosen its grip, step on the hub until the bottom of the strut pops out of the sleeve it sits in, then unbolt the three bolts ontop of the strut tower (under hood), and wiggle the setup out.

When replacing the strut: either go rent spring compressors (very safe way) or have someone hold down the struts so that no pressure is on the top nut (nut that holds the upper pearch on) when you remove the top nut. (I only do this with the rear's, with the fronts i lay the setup on the ground pointing away from me with something infront to catch the things that go flying, and very slowly loosen and remove the nut.)

to reinstall the springs on the new struts just have someone hold em down so u can get the top nut on

 

[saw wave analog]

just go to autozone or pepboys and borrow a compressor.. i wouldnt risk my spring killing me or someone else to save a 10 minute drive, you shouldnt either as far as the install is concerned, its beyond easy for the rears.. its 4 bolts, and only one of them will be rusty- it will take a half hour if you have 2 people doing it.. a bit longer if you have no experience probably. the fronts are a lot bigger of a pain in the ass because there is more stuff to disconnect but overall its an easy job

 

[cuttheduck]

The 1g info really wont help you because there suspension is VERY different then ours.

Heres some links to step by step directions and faqs for the 2gs. The AWD and FWD cars have the same suspension in the front, the rear is slightly diffferent but you can figure that out super easy once you take the wheel off and see the ONE bolt there.

Tokico install

another eibach,tokico install

Koni/ground control install

I wrote this in another thread so I decided to copy & paste it here since I just gave some tips on what I used.

If you are trying to lower it cheaply just use some pro-kits (or similar 1.5 or less drop) springs and get a "bolt camber kit" for the rear. RRE sells them if you dont wanna hassle for 40 bucks.


I just did mine a few days ago,,,

Here is what I used, some can be substtuted or deleted but I already got a pretty good stash of tools so I used......
-a jack, (raise up crossmembers and put wood block between jack and member)
-a pair of jack stands, (put thick rubber in between stand and jack point, I used old shoe insoles)

-pb blaster,
-BIG breaker bar,
-A 2-3 foot pipe to extend your breaker bar and even to extend your ratchets
-Good 1/2 drive 6 point sockets (14mm and 17mm really what you use for this).
-1/2 drive ratchet
-rubber mallet
-openend/box combination wrenches (14 and 17 again)
-crescent wrench,
-torque wrench would be nice
-10 dollar spring compressor from harbor freight ( probaly not even needed)

---I also found ratcheting wrenches to be very handy but if you dont have them there not needed at all for this, i also used some 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch sockets for clearance issues but if you dont have them the open end wrench and a mallet would work.

If you have an area where a bolt is hard to get to you can use your 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar, (whatever fits) and use your floor jack to raise up the bar and use the force of the car to get off the bolt. (worked GREAT on the back bolt in the rear of the car).

Also, After 9 winters and stock shocks still I pb blasted the bolts for like a week straight before i did this.
Hope this helps, very easy job if the bolts cooperate. Remember to get an alignment after

 

[Coldandafraid]

you wont need a spring compressor with your stock springs... (at least I didnt) The front ones popped about 1 inch, the back ones not at all.

 

[ADrewzki]

super e-z stuff, unbolt the single bolt at the bottom of the strut where it attaches to the hub (it will be a bolt that is parrellell with the ground, stick a screw driver in it to loosen its grip, step on the hub until the bottom of the strut pops out of the sleeve it sits in, then unbolt the three bolts ontop of the strut tower (under hood), and wiggle the setup out.

When replacing the strut: either go rent spring compressors (very safe way) or have someone hold down the struts so that no pressure is on the top nut (nut that holds the upper pearch on) when you remove the top nut. (I only do this with the rear's, with the fronts i lay the setup on the ground pointing away from me with something infront to catch the things that go flying, and very slowly loosen and remove the nut.)

to reinstall the springs on the new struts just have someone hold em down so u can get the top nut on

I noticed that the front shock sits inside its sleeve a good 2-3 inches. Are you sure that I can step on the hub enough for the shock to clear? It seems like a huge amount.

 

[rowlex]

It'll clear, that thing drops pretty far

 

[ADrewzki]

It'll clear, that thing drops pretty far

How do you manage to get it down that far? Mine hardly seems to move by stepping on it. Are you a 300lb behemoth of a man? :laugh: Seriously, did you put a breaker bar and pull down on it or something? I don't suppose you have a picture of how you did it?

 

[bhop]

I just replaced my shocks 2 weeks ago. Did it all myself. Like has been said already, the back is a cinch, but the front can be a pain. These may help some. I circled all the bolts you'll need to remove to get the shocks out and in.

You won't be able to move the damper fork (the sleeve the shock is in) without removing the stabilizer bar link, which is a pain to get off. Once that link is off though, the fork should slide down easily.

Also, when you're putting the front back together, make sure one of the three bolts on top of the assembly is aligned with the groove in the sleeve, if it's not, you'll have problems putting it back in.

 

[ADrewzki]

Thanks for the post. The rear was a piece of cake and I got them both done without any trouble. The front is giving me a run for my money though because I can't seem to get the 14mm bolts that hold the sway bar to the hub off. It's been sprayed with pb for two days and I managed to round off the nut in the back (circled in green). That part in particular is only about $30 from the dealership so I may just end up cutting it off with a dremel and pounding out the nut. I was just wondering if it was indeed possible to use a lot of leverage and press the entire front hub assembly down far enough to where the strut would come out of the sleeve. That would mean I wouldn't have to worry about that damn stripped nut or anything.

 

[bhop]

I used my jack to move the assembly up. The pressure on the link bar was coming from the weight of the hub assembly. I wish I could explain how I did it, but it was a spur of the moment kind of thing that involved a jack, a metal pipe, the spring compressors (not using them as they were designed) and lots of luck... in other words, a ghetto custom rig..