removing rear diff

[mainerdsm]

Hey guy's Well a week ago i was trying to take out my old rear diff and found a write up on how to swap from a 3 bolt to a 4 bolt and i thought taking out the 3 bolt rear diff out of my car was the same way. Well as many of you will probably tell me I was wrong. SO Im trying to find a write up on how to remove the 2g rear diff so i can put in my new one. THanks guys. oh and another thing its the same rear end as what i have now just from another 95 tsi awd talon. Thanks to 1badtsi haha i cant stress how helpful you were man. THanks very much found one off a local before paypal went thru i thoguht hmm mayb ill get this it was the whole rear sub frame and axles the guy tried to get me to give me $1k

 

[Afroclipse]

Remove axles

remove big bolts holding diff

Keep diff on jack while removing bolts

put new jack on

Come on, some stuff is self explanatory, like do I have to mention to drain rear diff or remove four bolts that hold it to drive shaft, nnoooo because its obvious.

 

[mainerdsm]

I know how to remove it but im talking about how to remove the axles 2g's are much different. The couplings are apart of the axles. I shoudl of re worded it. How do i disconnect the rear axles

4 bolts connect it to drive shaft i knew that unbolt 2 bolts on sub frame at the end of the rear diff and there a bracket on the passenger side you un bolt. now as for the axles itslf i dont know how to remove them from the hubs. ITs much different than the 1g setup

 

[mainerdsm]

DO i remove the rear axles just like the axles on a fwd just use a screw driver and pop them out and do the samething to put the axles back in as a fwd just pop them back in?

 

[daren_p]

DO i remove the rear axles just like the axles on a fwd just use a screw driver and pop them out and do the samething to put the axles back in as a fwd just pop them back in?

Yes, the axles should just pop out if you take a pry bar to them, then to install just line up the splines & give them a good jolt to lock them back in place.

If you don't care about getting the proper torque spec on the upper diff mount bolts, then you could drop the rear diff itself but if you want the new diff torqued back to proper spec (which is the route I'd choose since the aluminum mounting ears on the diff cover are known to snap), most just drop the complete rear subframe.

 

[mainerdsm]

I'm replacing my rear springs (already have adjustable struts ) and replacing the rear diff as well so I dont think I have to take off the whole rear subframe. I shouldn't have to should I? The rear sounds like it's setup just like a fwd just non of the steering stuff. And theres only like what 4 bolts on mine holding on the rear diff which I think Im missing the drivers side rear diff mount. So Im going to have to order one tommorow so its gonna be in next week for me to put in the car. SO Basically Im dropping the rear diff so that means the axles have to come out. But I shouldnt have to drop the whole rear subframe because that would cause more issues with the brake lines and such.

 

[daren_p]

That depends, just like I said, if you want to torque the rear diff mounting bolts to proper spec, you have to drop the rear subframe, unless you have a magic torque wrench that will clear the spare tire tunel. If you don't care about torquing the bolt to spec, the you don't have too. Dropping the subframe really isn't that much additional work. Brake lines aren't an issue, just remove caliper mounting bolts & bungee cord out of the way. Personally I'd drop the sub frame, but its up to you. Most DSMer's do like to half ass things (which is also why alot of them complain their not reliable, but thats a whole other topic, )

 

[mainerdsm]

I've always just tightened down to how ever much force it took to break the bolt loose. It always seems to work for me.