Radiant Heat clearance issues.

[focusedrage]

In order to install my fp evoiii with thier j-pipe, i had to switch the locations of the two radiator fans. Originaly the thick one was on the passenger side, and the thin one on the drivers infront of the turbo. Now its oposite. I am worryed that the radiant heat from the turbo and downpipe will cause problems to the fan. So far i have swaped the mounting of the fan moter so it is on the inside of the shroud. this puts the fan slightly closser to the radiator, and thus farther away from heat. I have also coated the back of the moter and the shole support structure of the shroud with thermo-tec heat protective tape.

The problem is that when i test fitted the downpipe (rnr 3" o2 elim) the waste gate tube nearly or did touch the back of the fan. all i can think to do now is put header wrap around the wastegate tube. Will this be enough, i dont want heat melting the fan apart.

 

[pneumo]

You are doing the right thing by insulating the fan shroud and wrapping the DP. Maybe try trimming the fan shroud so there is a little distance between the two parts. It might help, might not. You just have to try it and if it melts, get a slim fan.

 

[terefic181]

focusedrage

I have a similar problem as you, in that my new radiator is 3" thick. I as you plan to put some insulation on, an utilize reflective matrial as well over the motor area. My fan is not touching the header but, my main concern is if the engine torqueing back and forth is going to be a problem. If your's is touching already this could be a problem for you also. Let me know how yours comes out.

here's a pix of the proximity of mine:

 

[focusedrage]

yeah will do. i never thought about the torquing... i wish i could afford the c&r raditor with slim fans, but untill then ill have to wait. what are the differences in flow between the two fans, becasuse if the thinnner one is not that much less i could just install that, and wire them to both come on or something.

 

[Morphius]

Looks as though you have the same problem I have with my GGSX. I swapped a 4G63T into it and the turbo is VERY close (nearly touching) the fan. Short of putting in a set of pusher fans, I did the following:

I got some thin aluminum roof flashing from the hardware store. I cut a piece shaped like a pair, turned upside down. The larger portion will cover the motor and the smaller portion covers the lower portion. (galant has wiring running down the lower motor brace.) Then, I used the three screws that hold the motor to the fan shroud housing to hold the new shield in place. In my case, I did make some angled back cuts into the shield (making it star shaped) so I could fold those back flush with the mouting surface. You'll see the screws are set into the plastic housing. Mine is already in the car now, but maybe I can get a pic of the top of it to give you an idea of what I described above.

Hope that helps. I don't know if it'll work in the long run, but I'm going to try it.

 

[terefic181]

Morphius l'd like to see how you set yours up, I would rather not set up pusher fans unless it's absolutely necessary. I'm using the stock metal fan on the turbo side and it has the same configuration as you spoke of, with the wiring running down thru the housing strut toward the bottom of the fan. It was necessary for me to remove the stock metal sheilding from this fan for clearance, so my idea is to use thinner insulation with reflective material over the fan motor and wiring areas.

focusedrage My car is set up as you were suggesting with seperate switches for each fan, with this method you have to manually turn on the fans though, and I'm not sure that would be the best for a street car. My turbo side is a stock metal type fan with the metal motor-wiring sheilding removed, and the other side is an aftermarket plastic fan of a generic type. I don't have the CFM figures for it right now. You can pick up a Spal fan that for sure will flow enough, but again as far as I know your looking at a plastic caged fan with no sheilding either. Unfortunately in my opinion I doubt it probably can, in which case you may need to look at pusher fans.

If you are using a plastic framed fan on the turbo side I would be very interested to see if it withstands the heat.

Good luck..

 

[focusedrage]

thanks. i heard that if you ground a certain pin on the ecu (through a swtiich to make it selectable) then you could switch on your fans on high, and if the switch is off the ecu controls them as normal

 

[Morphius]

To give you an idea of the shape, I layed the portions I cut off the other blank on another piece of flashing.

 

[Morphius]

Here's a shot of a stock T/E/L fan. The stock galant one is similiar, without the shielding. Might even be slimmer. The harness for the galant one routes. down the lower fan web/brace. I rerouted a portion of it towards the pass side of the shroud.

Pardon the rough sketching, but the red is what the new shield resembles. The white is where most of the harness now runs. Dotted white is where a small portion of it runs.

 

[Morphius]

Here's a drivers side shot of the one I installed. Hard to see.

 

[Morphius]

Pass side shot. You can see the 'ear' that is cut out and uses the motor mounting screws (like the stock shield) to hold it in place.

 

[Morphius]

Here is a shot from above. Granted you can't see alot from the pics, but hopefully you get an idea of what I did.

 

[terefic181]

Morphius, are you getting good results from your sheild addition? Thanx for the info and pixs I'm sure that they will help.

 

[focusedrage]

yeah that looks liek a good idea, i think ill have to fab up something like that if my fan starts to getr soft.