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Quick question about stock wastegate

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r6speed

20+ Year Contributor
267
9
Feb 1, 2006
Eugene, Oregon
Just wanted to ask if changing the stock wastegate and 02 housing to a different stock wastegate and housing very "involved"? I have a B16G on the way, but have an autocross this week. So my question is how hard is it or rather how long will it take to swap 02 housings and wastegates before the race? Anything I need to know before I do it?

Thanks
 
Its not to difficult to replace either, depends on your tools on hand really. i mean the 02 is held on by five bolts and the wastegate is a cotter pin and one bolt i believe. correct if wrong. heat shields and and the 02 sensor are gonna be annoying though
 
Well its the wastegate that is bad...according to my OB11. Could I just change the wastegate and not the 02 housing? would it be easier? I just figured it would be easier to change it all since its together
 
Well its the wastegate that is bad...according to my OB11. Could I just change the wastegate and not the 02 housing? would it be easier? I just figured it would be easier to change it all since its together

The only thing holding the wastegate actuator on is two bolts and a c-clip. Removal of the turbo and/or O2 housing is not neccessary to pull the WGA. The only thing you might need to remove to get at the WGA is the lower heatshield.
 
Well its the wastegate that is bad...according to my OB11.

Hang on. A wastegate code in OBDII doesn't necessarily mean that the wastegate isn't functioning. Check to see if your stock BCS is still plugged into it's respective electrical connector. I believe that's what code is thrown when that little guy is disconnected.
 
ok the stock boost controller wiring harness is hooked up, so that must not be it. But it did seem wierd that it just happened all the sudden and it doesn't seem to effect the performance. Also when the battery was taken out and put back in it took about an hour for the check engine light to come back on....think I should change the wastegate?
 
Do you have the vacuum lines still connected to the BCS? Reason I ask is because that's the only "sensor" that has anything to do with the wastegate/boost, so theoretically it's the only one that could trip a "wastegate" trouble code.

If you have an aftermarket boost gauge and it's functioning properly, and your boost is controlled in a normal fashion, I would say your wastegate is functioning properly. You can take it off and test it with a compressor, I believe, to be sure. If it works fine, it may be a problem with the BCS itself. If nothing else, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect it, then see if the CEL comes back on.
 
Ok i tried disconecting the battery for a bit and this time the CEL came right back on. So your saying the only thing that could trigger this code is if my BCS which I beleave is my Boost Controller is not pluged in or the lines are not plugged in correct? The vacume lines are on the boost controller. And if I am going to take this one off to test it I might as well just put on the other one anyways. Not sure just a guess, but when I installed my FMIC I had a lot of problems with the couplers blowing off...fixed now, but when that happens it runs rich and other obvious things so I am guessing that would take a toll on my wastegate??
 
Also my boost does wierd things...always has really. It will go up to about 14 and stay for maybe 8 seconds and then slowly go down to 9-10. I notice in third gear it usually takes much longer for it to drop...don't know how or why but it does. So testing that is really not an option since i haven't figured out that problem yet.

It seems like that problem started with the SAFC but I am not really sure on that
 
Ok i tried disconecting the battery for a bit and this time the CEL came right back on. So your saying the only thing that could trigger this code is if my BCS which I beleave is my Boost Controller is not pluged in or the lines are not plugged in correct? The vacume lines are on the boost controller.

Yes, the "BCS" Mr.Boxx is referring to is the factory Boost Control Solenoid and is responsible for maintaining proper boost levels in our cars. The BCS is located behind your passenger side headlight and underneath your air filter. If it is not functioning properly or is not correctly attached to your wastegate actuator (WGA) then your car will throw the CEL you're currently seeing.
 
ok and like I said I have checked that and all wires are hooked up correctly. The lines are also hooked up, but they are pulled pretty tight to get over there due to past boost controller installs (was not happy with either of them) But I I don't see any problems there. So what you are saying is that even if my wastegate wasn't working perfectly it still probably would not throw the CEL because the CEL trigger is on the BCS
 
Also my boost does wierd things...always has really. It will go up to about 14 and stay for maybe 8 seconds and then slowly go down to 9-10. I notice in third gear it usually takes much longer for it to drop...don't know how or why but it does. So testing that is really not an option since i haven't figured out that problem yet.

Honestly, that sounds doesn't sound too abnormal. It fairly common to see a little boost spike on the factory turbo.. at least I did back when I was running the T-25. Also, seeing boost taper off to 9-10 psi is normal as well if you're running the stock 2g BOV. The stock plastic BOV can't hold boost at all and thats why your seeing the boost slowly drop.

EDIT: I just noticed that you're not running the stock BOV but instead a GReddy Type-S. I doubt the drop in boost is from the GReddy BOV.. you probably have a boost leak somewhere else.


ok and like I said I have checked that and all wires are hooked up correctly. The lines are also hooked up, but they are pulled pretty tight to get over there due to past boost controller installs (was not happy with either of them) But I I don't see any problems there.

Its ok to have tight hoses running from the BCS to the WGA as long as they aren't leaking at all.


So what you are saying is that even if my wastegate wasn't working perfectly it still probably would not throw the CEL because the CEL trigger is on the BCS

That is correct. There is no sensor on the WGA and therefore no way it could directly throw a CEL.
 
Could leaks in my FMIC piping cause that CEL to trigger? That would explain my wierd boost and CEL lights, although i have tested it before but that was a long time ago so I should do it again.
 
No, a boost leak wouldn't cause you to throw a CEL.

I guess I should ask, why do you think this CEL is related to the wastegate? I'm assuming you have a PocketLogger or some type of OBDII scanner?
 
Ok I did the pressure test and no leaks, I also replaced the hoses to the stock Boost controller. CEL was still coming on, so next I took off the wastegate and put the other one on. Car runs the same (just fine) and I cleared the CEL, but about two minutes later it came back on!! I can't find any reason for this coming on its still giving code 1103 wastegate actuator malfuntion. I no longer have the dump tube that went from stock BOV into intake, I just used black duct tape and made a cap with a hose clamp (was 2am and wanted to drive it) Could that be causing this? If so why didn't it do it a long time ago? Does anyone know what to use instead of duct tape?
 
Recirculate your blow-off valve. Either find someone selling their recirc hose or buy a new one from the dealer, but get that BOV routed back to the intake.
 
I doubt that simply not recirculating your BOV could cause a CEL. That said, you really should be recirculating.. it'll only make your car run better. Also, you mention using duct tape to cap something off. What did you cap? And why? The recirculation tube on the intake pipe? If so, take that tape off your intake pipe and recirculate your GReddy Type-S BOV.

Is your car actually running poorly? What are some of the symptoms?

The only other thing I can think of is try to find another stock 2g BCS and swap it with the one on your car and see if the CEL goes away.
 
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