Quick piping question

[howdeyjake]

Ok I just got a new clutch put in my car and when it was being all put back togather I think the guy forgot to connect the end pipe out of the SMIC to the plastic piping going to the intake manifold, the big wide plastic tube on the left side of the car. I can't get those connected, there isn't enough room. Any tips?? I was thinking duct tape but that is a LITTLE too ghetto. Any help is appreciated.

Jake

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Try removing your air filter.

 

[kenamond]

Yeah, remove the air filter and air box and the 3 bolts holding your fuse box down. That'll give you plenty of room to get at things from the top. To get at it from underneath, take the fender well plastic part bolts out, shove it out of the way (there is a hinge in the plastic so that you can bend the front section away so that you don't have to pull the whole well out), and take a look at the wonderful SMIC. there are two metal bolts and several plastic push-in bolts, but just pull the ones that lets you bend that plastic out of the way to expose the SMIC.

Duct tape won't hold 12psi, and you'll run rich and overwork your turbo if you have a boost leak. You're probably in that condition right now. How's your fuel economy?

 

[howdeyjake]

Absolutly HORRIBLE!!!!!!! I can't get my boost tester to work. I put the tester on the turbo inlet (where the big black plastic intake tube connects into the turbo correct??) and then hook my compressor up to it with 20 psi and I can't get a thing. The gauge inside doesn't even move. Am I doing something wrong??? I would love to get some power in my car, haven't even drove it when it was actually in "Working order" and I have had it for a year.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

If you haven't reconnected the intercooler pipe it's not going to hold any pressure.

 

[howdeyjake]

When it was connected I couldn't get any pressure, before I got my new clutch in. And I can't hear any leaks or anything, I don't think there is any air going threw the piping. Any clues on how to fix this or am I doing my boost leak test wrong???

Thanks,
Jake

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Does the needle even bounce at all?

It's likely enough that you have a massive leak somewhere. Time to get the spray bottle with soapy water out!

Just to be sure you've got it right, you want to connect the tester where the intake tube normally connects to the turbo. If you want to help isolate the problem, you can also connect it to the throttle body, or anywhere else along the way if you want.

 

[howdeyjake]

Nope doesn't even flintch the slightest bit. I did get out the soapy water spray bottle and couldn't find anything. Could something with my wastegate be messed up?

 

[turbo8765]

Nope doesn't even flintch the slightest bit. I did get out the soapy water spray bottle and couldn't find anything. Could something with my wastegate be messed up?

You could completely remove the wastegate and it wouldn't affect intake boost leak testing (note that a pressurized line does connect to the waste gate acutator, however).

One thing that I found usefull in the past was to block off the TB elbow were the UICP connects to it. In doing so, you isolate a portion of the system, which makes looking for leaks a little easier. Divide and conquer.

The bottom line is that if you have your boost gauge correctly installed, and you apply pressure to the intake side of the turbo, and register no pressure on the gauge, then you have a leak/s somewhere. Listen and use a spray bottle.

 

[No_Skillz]

Your wastegate has no affect on your intake pressure during a boost leak test. It is on the exhaust side of your turbo and has no connection to the compressor.

Disconnect piping starting from the throttle body and do many small boost leak tests to narrow down the possibilities. IE, disconnect your UICP from the throttle body and test the throttle body, then connect the UICP and test right after the IC, then connect the IC and test right after the LICP, ect ect.

 

[1stGenRocks]

listen for the whoosing and find where its coming from. if you pumping in 20 psi it should be making a lot of noise. what kind of compressor/tank are you using?

 

[turbo8765]

Your wastegate has no affect on your intake pressure during a boost leak test. It is on the exhaust side of your turbo and has no connection to the compressor.

Disconnect piping starting from the throttle body and do many small boost leak tests to narrow down the possibilities. IE, disconnect your UICP from the throttle body and test the throttle body, then connect the UICP and test right after the IC, then connect the IC and test right after the LICP, ect ect.

I read your mind.

 

[howdeyjake]

Yes my boost gauge is connected correctly, it works when my car runs. I am using my dads huge air compressor, and I did test the pressure with a tire pressure gauge thingey, I put it at like 21.5 psi exactly. I will try isolating parts of the intercooler piping tonight/tomorrow and see what I can come up with that. Also how do I block off the UICP and what does the U stand for? I take it the ICP is intercooler piping. Thanks for all the help guys and keep the replies coming!!

Jake

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Try putting the air compressor on full blast. The more leaks you have, the harder it will be to fill. You may need lots of CFM to do it. When I do my tests I just run normal pressure (120 psi or so) and stop when it reaches 20 on the boost gauge.

Otherwise, isolating by working your way back from the throttle body is a good idea, you should have luck that way.

BTW, UICP stands for Upper InterCooler Pipe.

 

[No_Skillz]

Try putting the air compressor on full blast. The more leaks you have, the harder it will be to fill. You may need lots of CFM to do it. When I do my tests I just run normal pressure (120 psi or so) and stop when it reaches 20 on the boost gauge.

Otherwise, isolating by working your way back from the throttle body is a good idea, you should have luck that way.

BTW, UICP stands for Upper InterCooler Pipe.

Agreed. Full blast is fine, but have a friend keep an eye on your boost guage to make sure you don't go over 20psi and break something.

 

[kenamond]

Before you do any more boost leak tests, you MUST connect your UICP back up!! You aren't going to be able to force enough air into your system to build any pressure. I can't believe you can build any boost at all while driving without that connected (and doesn't it drive like complete crap right now?). Which end is disconnected: passenger side or driver side where it connects to the S-shaped rubber tube with the braided wrap? I already posted how to get full access to both ends, and I really think that has to be reattached before you do even one more boost leak test. You'll have to pull the filter box and wheel well plastic guard anyway to see leaks in either the IC (can have holes) or the IC outlet/UICP connection.

To cap the UICP, just make another boost leak tester, but don't put a valve in it (you could put the valve in, though, and have a 2nd tester, and it will still act as a cap). If you want to cap the end of the S-hose that goes from the UICP to the TB elbow, get a 6" piece of 2-1/4 pipe (not 100% sure on that diameter, so measure the diameter of your TB elbow inlet), clamp it into the tester and s-hose with the stock clamp and the tester clamp.

 

[howdeyjake]

Ok next thing to try is to to just turn the air compressor up and up untill I can find where it is coming from. Sounds like a plan! And yes my car does run like COMPLETE crap!! I'm working tonight and tommrrow morning so I will do everything you guys suggested tommrrow afternoon. Thanks for all the help! I will post my findings tomorrow night.

Thanks again,
Jake

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Before you do any more boost leak tests, you MUST connect your UICP back up!!

Seriously, listen to this guy. I hadn't even considered the possibility that you wouldn't have reconnected this. If you have ANY piping loose or disconnected from your intake to your engine, you'd be stupid to be even driving your car, let alone doing boost leak tests.

 

[howdeyjake]

When I did the boost test it WAS connected....just not as good as I thought. When I came home that night I gave it some gas going down my street and heard a POP(knowing exactly what it was) and when I looked at it they had seperated. It was connected, i'm sure just not good at all, causing it to run like complete shit. I did just connect the passanger side UICP. I was being an idoit, and pulled the infamous not untightening the clamp enough. I untightened it just about all the way and to my amazment slid all the way down. After all the hours I put into that stupid clamp, the simple twist of a screwdriver fixed it....sigh. Oh well one problem down, penty more to go. Next is the full and complete boost leak test. I'm sure there are plenty of boost leaks because the piping has some of the rubber with clothish outsiding pieces just cut 2" or so long! Frayed on the ends and probably letting out 75-85% of my boost. Should I just bite the bullet and go for a SS Autochrome HUGE FMIC now, or try replacing the old crap with new from the hardware store??

Thanks again for all the help,
Jake

 

[howdeyjake]

WOW that made the biggest difference in the world!!! I have gone farther on an eight of a tank than I useually did on a half of tank. This is also without doing a boost leak test, just reconnecting it the intake pipe thing. I am going to do a full boost leak test in a couple days and just replace most of the bad piping. But one more thing is that MY CAR IS FAST!!!! Thanks for all the help guys!!!

Jake

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

But one more thing is that MY CAR IS FAST!!!!

Jake

 

[howdeyjake]

Still can't get my boost leak tester to find any leaks. When I pressurize the turbocharger inlet with 21.5 psi, I can't get my aftermarket boost gauge to show any pressure. If I were to get into my car and drive off it would show +-20psi vac and boost just fine. But when I pressurize it with the boost leak tester, it doesn't move at all. I don't hear any leaks anywhere and even sprayed it down with soapy water and nothing at all. Any clues? Any help is appreciated.

BTW- I have stock IC piping and SMIC with upgraded big 16G turbo.

Thanks,
Jake