quick 6 bolt swap question

[daver36]

I'm just wondering, with the 6 bolt swap, if/when you get the random misfire code thrown, is it just the code being thrown, or is the motor actually misfiring? Secondy, if you just clear the code by checking the little box in dsmlink does it actually fix the problem (if it's actually misfiring) or does the code just stop comming up. Thirdly, if your car does actually start randomly misfiring for some other reason, does this mean the light won't come on? Any idiot can feel if their car is misfiring so I guess it wouldn't matter, I'm just curious.

Cheers,

Daver

 

[daver36]

anyone?

 

[Matrixhunter]

most of the time the misfire is not actually happening with your 6 bolt, but your car will run like crap once the it "thinks" misfire is actually happening.

All you have to do is check the little box like you mentioned and it will run just fine. The misfire code will not appear again. Make sure you also select the "cam inversion" option also.

 

[snowborder714]

The random misfire code that is typically thrown normally does not cause any major problems (at least that I've experienced/read about). Usually it just goes into limp mode until it is restarted.

The box in DSMlink will prevent any of this from happening - code and limp mode.

If that box is checked, it will never throw a random misfire code. That doesn't mean it can't throw other codes.


Oh, and please don't bump your thread. You didn't even give it 4 hours.

 

[Jeff99GS]

For guys that don't have DSM Link you can do the Magnus Method (BELOW)


IF CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS OCCUR! TRY THIS:

This fix will keep the ECU from looking for misfires at all. This is the criterion that must be met before the
ECU will start to look for misfires:
· 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position
· Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher
· Intake air temperature -10C or higher
· Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa
Now if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria the ECU won't check for misfires. The value that
would be the easiest to change would be the barometric pressure sensor. We're going to add resistance to
this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the
car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need
to add more fuel with an AFC.
So let's get started, Parts needed:
· A 10K potentiometer (although a 5K would probably do just fine). These are available at any
electronics store, if you go to Radio Shack ask for a volume control knob because they don't know
what a potentiometer is.
· Wire strippers
· Soldering iron
Step 1: Remove the access panel on the driver's side of the center console. You should now see four plugs
with a ton of wires going to them.
Step 2: Pull out the top plug, it'll be the one that's the hardest to reach. Locate wire #85. It's orange with a
white stripe.
Step 3: Cut the orange wire in half. Solder one end of the wire to the center peg of your potentiometer.
Solder the other end to either the left or right leg, it doesn't matter which. Turn your potentiometer all the
way counter-clockwise.
Step 4: Plug the harness back in and start up the car. It should sound like it did before you did any
modifications. If the idle is choppy or the car won't run you turned your potentiometer the wrong way.
Step 5: Add resistance to the barometric pressure sensor by slowly turning the knob on the potentiometer.
Drive the car around; if you get a CEL then add some more resistance. Keep doing this until you no longer get

 

[daver36]

Thanks for the info. Sorry 'bout the bump, yur right, that was a little impatient