Question re check CEL codes

[Grizbomb1684]

So I recently did a cometic head gasket and arp studs on my 1g tsi I did the simple route with vac lines from the taboo diagram now I have a check engine light and a idle surge from 1000-1500rpms after I drive it hard if it drives normal no surge but still check engine my course of action is goin to be first see what the Cel is then check for vac leaks, I don't have a volt meter but I do have a test light and I read the vfaq it says to either use a volt meter, led light or the RadioShack buzzer, is there any reason I can't use a test light?

If it helps solve my prob my car is 100% stock except for the cometic gasket arp studs and a 3" Dp and 3" cat back

 

[4g63t]

I would re check your timing job. Also if you live by a auto parts store most of them with check your cel for free. (They want to sell you parts) I would do this first and make sure none of the vacuum lines are leaking. Maybe with some soapy water.

A Test light will be hard to hold into the right spot but it should work the same. That's ancient technology. Acquire a code reader.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

The RadioShack piezo buzzer just makes it a lot easier to count the sound pulses.

 

[Grizbomb1684]

I would re check your timing job. Also if you live by a auto parts store most of them with check your cel for free. (They want to sell you parts) I would do this first and make sure none of the vacuum lines are leaking. Maybe with some soapy water.

I will also check the timing, timing should be 5 btdc with the connected grounded correct?

Would it damage anything to use a test light to get the cel all topics I read never mention being able to use a test light

Well I checked my vac lines re ran them with good new ones still have check engine light but I did find two connectors not plugged in but can't find where they go, both are three wire plugs with purple inside there clips one is grey one is black I found them behind the intake I will try and post pic

<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r25/acura_grizzly/?action=view&current=d69dcfb4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r25/acura_grizzly/d69dcfb4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r25/acura_grizzly/?action=view&current=683f3123.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r25/acura_grizzly/683f3123.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

Does anyone have a link with what clip goes where on motor??

 

[DSMCharles]

I believe in a different post you made someone had said one was the knock sensor and the other an emissions related plug made for california standards, are you still having problems?

 

[Grizbomb1684]

Some problems the one plug was the knock sensor which solved my CEL issue now I'm trying to set the timing but I don't know what plug the ground out, there two on fire wall there one is a wide spade connector and the other is a circular oval plug with a small pin in it both next to each other behind battery on firewall

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I'm trying to set the timing but I don't know what plug the ground out, there two on fire wall there one is a wide spade connector and the other is a circular oval plug with a small pin in it both next to each other behind battery on firewall

You're looking for one like this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/324553-plug-ground-base-timing-pic.html#post151751808

 

[Grizbomb1684]

You're looking for one like this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/324553-plug-ground-base-timing-pic.html#post151751808

checked timing, it was out, now set to 5 btdc and it still idles a lil rough at idle and its around 1000rpm any lower and car stalls out when coming to a stop, i spoke with the guy i bought the car from and he suspects a leaky o-ring possibly at either the base of fuel injectors or somewhere in throttle body