question about 90 awd wheel bearings

[3kgt2nv]

I took my hubs off and after cleaning them i really want to inspect and replace the wheel bearings if needed or at the minimum regrease them.

On rockauto I fount the part number of TIMKEN Part # 513036 1.4173 in. Width. is this the complete piece or would i also need something else or the seals. I dont think they are bad but im sure they will get mangled if i take them apart to inspect them and they feel like they are dry.

Any help would be great.

thanks

 

[Colt4G63 also]

The bearing comes as one piece, with a single outer race, and two sets of ball bearings that can be removed, before you press the race into the knuckle. They don't come sealed, and there are inner and outer seals available that press into the knuckle after the bearing is pressed in.

 

[3kgt2nv]

Ok if I remove the bearing should i just replace it or if it looks good just regrease it and do new seals.

It looks like the engine side seal failed since there is grease but it has no play in the hub when i spin it.

 

[andrewschel]

if you are going through all the trouble to take it apart and out. just replace. its a harder job then just popping them out and then in. I find its often easier to buy the spindle with them already pressed in. thats just cause i dont have the proper tools.

 

[3kgt2nv]

All that's available for the 90 is the individual parts. and I have the tools and i don't mind the work. I don't want to spend 50 bucks on a pair of bearings if they just need to be repacked with grease and have new seals put on.

 

[SrKegler]

I would disassemble the bearings and check them out first. Definately replace the seals. Chances are the bearings are good if you haven't noticed any problems.

However, as hard as it is to get everything apart to replace the outer seal, I would go ahead and replace the bearings while I was in there.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

You can check the bearing cups for damage and repack the bearings if they're still good. It would be less work because you can leave in the outer race, but you'll still have to press out the hub.

Post #4 sounds like someone pays more money just to have a used bearing and not check, or repack it, so avoid going that route.

 

[steve]

At some point you just have to decide if it's really worth it to put some old bearings with however miles on them already back in. The odds are that if they aren't worn out yet with new grease they are likely to outlast the car but it they don't, it will cost a lot more than the replacement bearings to go back in and change them. The seals are trashed each time and the time involved pulling the spindles off can always be spent doing something else.

 

[3kgt2nv]

well I took apart my wheel hub today and I have to say that who ever wrote the awd wheel bearing removal how to on here made things way more complcated than it needed to be.

I pressed the spindle out with a 20 ton shop press then used a seal puller to remove the outer seal and used a pair of c clip pliers to remove the the retaining clip. took about 4 minutes to disassemble the whole hub and then i sent it to the parts cleaner and this is how it looked 15 minutes after I started.

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Only thing left to do is put the bearing puller on the rotor side outer and remove it so I can replace that seal.

Overall difficulty is about a 2. But like any job its all a matter of having the right tool for the job.

 

[steve]

The tech article on the site was done by a guy who has ABS and doesn't have a press.

 

[3kgt2nv]

yea i say that he had the abs ring. But even a c clamp could be used in place of a press. Im thinking about writing a how to for removal for this style of wheel bearing assembly.