Pte 5031RLE, 3431RLE, GT3076RLE?

[daren_p]

Slowboy.com and TurboTime.us both have the PTE DBB 50trim with the .63 A/R Mitsu Bolt On Turbine Housing

Correct, the .63 AR is the standard bolt on housing for the 5031 (& what everybody carries), its the GT3076 thats the issue.

 

[Skywalker18]

OK!!!! I was a little confused.........now I'm on the same page!

 

[DGajre777]

I was thinking if I do go with the Mitsu bolt on route, the Bullseye power housing may be the way to go. I have to confirm but I believe PTE only offers the bolt on housing in a .48 AR, while the bullseye is ~.55. I would assume the bullseye has more power potential.

Which is what I said earlier. However, the bullseye does come with the surge compressor cover and the option for an internal gate. It is not a matter of the bullseye having more potential, but where you want the power band. With a smaller turbine AR, the power is in the lower band with fast spool and with a higher turbine AR the power is in the higher band with slower spool (but you already knew this!).

I think if you want a GT30/3076 without a .48AR housing and an internal, then I think you have only 3 options:
1) Bullseye bolt-on housing - http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=5463&
2) Slowboy bolt-on housing - http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2200&
3) Garrett T3 - http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2398&

 

[andymoraitis]

I vote for the Bullseye. I just pulled 51 lbs./min out of mine (TO4B 50 trim) and she still held 27 psi to redline without a hitch. I know there are better options, but on a medium sized turbo, the Bullseye works like a champ.

 

[daren_p]

Which is what I said earlier. However, the bullseye does come with the surge compressor cover and the option for an internal gate. It is not a matter of the bullseye having more potential, but where you want the power band. With a smaller turbine AR, the power is in the lower band with fast spool and with a higher turbine AR the power is in the higher band with slower spool (but you already knew this!).

I think if you want a GT30/3076 without a .48AR housing and an internal, then I think you have only 3 options:
1) Bullseye bolt-on housing - http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=5463&
2) Slowboy bolt-on housing - http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2200&
3) Garrett T3 - http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2398&

Yes you did tell me , I was told by a vendor that they did offer the PTE bolt on housing in the .63 but they later told me this wasn't so
I think the slowboy bolt on is out as I believe its also the .48 AR?

Nothing is ever easy. So I think to myself I really should go external & just be done with it. Well if I go external I either need to get a new custom O2 housing or get another SBR mani with the WG flange. Since my current SBR mani already has a bunch of cracks I really didn't want to drop another $300 to find out it will do the same. I figure it sorta a waste if I spend this extra money to go external & get one of these 2 pieces, I still end up with not as well performing stock style parts when I could basically spend the same & go T3, making things alot easier in the future.

Well I thought everything was looking up I found that treadston mani that looks descent (plus has a warranty against cracking) & is a couple hundred cheeper then the turbonetics. So great now I just need a T3 turbine housing for the GT3076 in the 5 bolt housing as Ive heard there are fitment issues with the 4 bolt & turbonetics mani (not sure why?) So go to see about the 5 bolt to find out Garret doesn't make a 5 bolt for this turbo only a 4 bolt. Now apparently you can make the 4 bolt work but I believe the outlet is placed slightly different compared to the 5 bolt which makes it hard to make an O2 housing with a tight enough bend that will still bolt up to a downpipe thats in the factory location. So I was told it probably can work but you'll need a custom DP as well.

I didn't want to get into a custom DP as well, so if I have been misenformed or anyone is running the T3 setup what do I need & what are you running? Got all excited earlier today thinking I had finally figured out the combo I wanted, got myself a 38mm Tial WG & then find out Im basically back to square one.

 

[LRS95TSI]

where is a link or picture of the treadstone mani?

i would recommend a mani that will bring the ext wg back towards the head (this helps to retain stock fans and room). then i would go with the a/r 63 t3 housing...is it possible to have a v-band exhaust housing side on this turbo? if so, run a v-band pipe from the turbo all the way back, making the 02 housing and dp, one unit with a bung for the 02 sensor? i just think its in your best interest to go ext wg from the beginning and do it all right the first time and then you can enjoy it from then on out...

 

[bfdahl]

Well, your really making this harder than it needs to be.

If you know what you want you HP goal to be and which type of fuel you will be running most of the time it will be easy.

I ordered the 5031 from Dejon, but they sent my a 3076RLE by mistake.

I ran it anyway. It runs ok. If you dont plan on running more than 25 psi, then the .48 is ok. more than that a .63 would be better.
Many will think that the A/R is small, but forget that the magic is in the GT wheels!
If you do the math you will find that the 3076 is kinda big for a target goal of 400whp.
and the 3071 would be a better choice. but the 5031 is just about right for a 2.0 engine.

If you want to buy a turbo right now, and plan on doing a 2.3 engine the GT30 will be a better match

 

[fwdeclipse]

where is a link or picture of the treadstone mani?

i would recommend a mani that will bring the ext wg back towards the head (this helps to retain stock fans and room). then i would go with the a/r 63 t3 housing...is it possible to have a v-band exhaust housing side on this turbo? if so, run a v-band pipe from the turbo all the way back, making the 02 housing and dp, one unit with a bung for the 02 sensor? i just think its in your best interest to go ext wg from the beginning and do it all right the first time and then you can enjoy it from then on out...

This is what I did on my setup,went with the v-band so the o2 housing and downpipe are one solid peice then I welded in an o2 bung.

 

[daren_p]

Well, your really making this harder than it needs to be.

If you know what you want you HP goal to be and which type of fuel you will be running most of the time it will be easy.

I ordered the 5031 from Dejon, but they sent my a 3076RLE by mistake.

I ran it anyway. It runs ok. If you dont plan on running more than 25 psi, then the .48 is ok. more than that a .63 would be better.
Many will think that the A/R is small, but forget that the magic is in the GT wheels!
If you do the math you will find that the 3076 is kinda big for a target goal of 400whp.
and the 3071 would be a better choice. but the 5031 is just about right for a 2.0 engine.

If you want to buy a turbo right now, and plan on doing a 2.3 engine the GT30 will be a better match

Well like I said if I go external, which I would end up doing in the long run anyways I might as well get setup for T3 now. I know the GT3076 is a rather large sized turbo for my goals but I know a couple people that run it & as low as 12 psi & still think its amazing. Being a fwd I figure this turbo may spool a couple hundred rpms more then the 5031RLE bolt on, putting me right around the 4000 mark which will probably only help me out. Plus if I descide to build the motor this turbo should still keep me happy running mid to high 20's on a daily basis. I already got the external gate & for me I think its best to have the WG off the mani, which the turbonetics & treadstone mani's have. Otherwise I might run into clearance issues with a Koyo rad & O2 mounted houging, which may not totally prevent creep anyways.

I think the 3076 would be a good turbo for my application, looks like kozluv made ~ 365 hp right around 20 psi. This would be right around what Im looking for ~400hp at the crank, hey if I can make that kinda hp at 20 psi instead of 22-24 on a 50 trim then why not? It would be easier on the motor & only adds a few hundred rpms to spool. You see guy running 60 trims & 60-1 for my goals like mine which is even more turbo & they all seem to like them & think their a great match to a fwd?

For the treadston mani, I made a post for it in the bolton section, their is a link to their webpage there. Im still confussed what all I need/can use to get this to bolt up to a stock location DP, with the 4 & 5 bolt turbine housings as I found a place that does infact offer this turbo with a 5 bolt housing. Now Ive also been told the newer 4 bolt design flows better & it should bolt up to the turbonetics mani no problem. Only concern is getting the housing connected to my DP.

 

[definitiveno]

Well like I said if I go external, which I would end up doing in the long run anyways I might as well get setup for T3 now. I know the GT3076 is a rather large sized turbo for my goals but I know a couple people that run it & as low as 12 psi & still think its amazing. Being a fwd I figure this turbo may spool a couple hundred rpms more then the 5031RLE bolt on, putting me right around the 4000 mark which will probably only help me out. Plus if I descide to build the motor this turbo should still keep me happy running mid to high 20's on a daily basis. I already got the external gate & for me I think its best to have the WG off the mani, which the turbonetics & treadstone mani's have. Otherwise I might run into clearance issues with a Koyo rad & O2 mounted houging, which may not totally prevent creep anyways.

I think the 3076 would be a good turbo for my application, looks like kozluv made ~ 365 hp right around 20 psi. This would be right around what Im looking for ~400hp at the crank, hey if I can make that kinda hp at 20 psi instead of 22-24 on a 50 trim then why not? It would be easier on the motor & only adds a few hundred rpms to spool. You see guy running 60 trims & 60-1 for my goals like mine which is even more turbo & they all seem to like them & think their a great match to a fwd?

For the treadston mani, I made a post for it in the bolton section, their is a link to their webpage there. Im still confussed what all I need/can use to get this to bolt up to a stock location DP, with the 4 & 5 bolt turbine housings as I found a place that does infact offer this turbo with a 5 bolt housing. Now Ive also been told the newer 4 bolt design flows better & it should bolt up to the turbonetics mani no problem. Only concern is getting the housing connected to my DP.

Don't do what I did, whatever you do. Buy once! No matter how you look at it, for better pressure control with an external, or the more efficient housings t3 traditionally offers, to the better placement of the wastegate........go T3 external gate, or Fp external gate once and forget about it. All in all 5 bolt housings FTMFL (ftmfl=for the muther mucking lose)

 

[LRS95TSI]

I think the 3076 would be a good turbo for my application, looks like kozluv made ~ 365 hp right around 20 psi. This would be right around what Im looking for ~400hp at the crank, hey if I can make that kinda hp at 20 psi instead of 22-24 on a 50 trim then why not? It would be easier on the motor & only adds a few hundred rpms to spool.

For the treadston mani, I made a post for it in the bolton section, their is a link to their webpage there. Im still confussed what all I need/can use to get this to bolt up to a stock location DP, with the 4 & 5 bolt turbine housings as I found a place that does infact offer this turbo with a 5 bolt housing. Now Ive also been told the newer 4 bolt design flows better & it should bolt up to the turbonetics mani no problem. Only concern is getting the housing connected to my DP.

exactly my theory....go a little bigger on turbo to achieve hp goals at lower hp with less strain on the 7 bolt then if you ever uograde motor or car you haev a turbo that is sufficient...

as far as the mani's go i would really love to see some1 run a ext wg off the mani and be able to keep stock fans or a easy slim line setup...

my route hopefully will be the 3076 with a t3 mani with the wg going towards the head with a dump seperate from the one piece o2/dp (v-band).

my only questions would be what your confused abotu with the 4 botl and 5 bolt? i have no understanding of this route...i just think it would be better to run v-band and have a small tueb at that to connect to your stock dp...you could have a vband o2 housing essentially..cut the flange off the dp and weld the two pieces together? than you can easily disconnect parts from one another...the dp is always causing issues when removing mani or turbo, if it was vband, one simple turn of a ratchet and its off! same with ext wg!

daren,
if you find any info on the 4 and 5 bolt or vband housings, please post links...this has become a very informative thread, let's keep it going...

 

[daren_p]

Don't do what I did, whatever you do. Buy once! No matter how you look at it, for better pressure control with an external, or the more efficient housings t3 traditionally offers, to the better placement of the wastegate........go T3 external gate, or Fp external gate once and forget about it. All in all 5 bolt housings FTMFL (ftmfl=for the muther mucking lose)

definitiveno, your running the GT30R, which setup are you running and what pieces did you use to make it all work? So what about 5 bolt housings, stay away?

As for the Vband not sure if they offer a T3 vband housing for this turbo, I know they do fo the 35R. Problem is I want to get everything that I can just bolt up & have it run. I don't want to take it to a fab/performance shop & pay them to install the turbo just so I can have them fab up a custom O2 housing. I don't think I can really bolt the turbo all up & then drive the car to get an O2 housing made. Any good custom exhaust shops are a good 45 min+ away from where I live so I cant just drive it around the corner or that would be a pretty hefty tow bill to go that route.

 

[LRS95TSI]

definitiveno, your running the GT30R, which setup are you running and what pieces did you use to make it all work? So what about 5 bolt housings, stay away?

As for the Vband not sure if they offer a T3 vband housing for this turbo, I know they do fo the 35R. Problem is I want to get everything that I can just bolt up & have it run. I don't want to take it to a fab/performance shop & pay them to install the turbo just so I can have them fab up a custom O2 housing. I don't think I can really bolt the turbo all up & then drive the car to get an O2 housing made. Any good custom exhaust shops are a good 45 min+ away from where I live so I cant just drive it around the corner or that would be a pretty hefty tow bill to go that route.

ahh, i understand...i have a great muffler shop 7 minutes from my house...couldn't you buy a 3inch u bend and cut it to fit from the dp to the turbo and then have it welded to the dp...i think thats the route ill choose to stay away from x number of bolts needing to be removed...instead of an o2 housing with 3-4 bolts, a dp with 2....1 vband FTMFW!!

 

[definitiveno]

definitiveno, your running the GT30R, which setup are you running and what pieces did you use to make it all work? So what about 5 bolt housings, stay away?

If you can afford it, and want to maximize your systems potential. Bolt on housings are restricted to the same flange that comes on our t25, and the flange is limiting, compare my gt30r to my t25

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A simple ford 4 bolt is the simplest and most efficient housing, and with the GT 4 bolt V-band options available they are easy to work with, make for clean install, and have the smoothest turbine-to-O2housing available. The Wheel is the most important part, it is obviously bigger and that is awesome, but utilize a v-band 3 inch outlet and you will be able to see the long end of your turbo maps much easier.

I never installed that turbo, bought a 4 bolt housing for it, bought a t3 manifold, and it was stolen before I could install it. Just about to buy a 4 bolt gt35r now.

One thing to realize is that opening in the housing for the internal wastegate port is not conducive with the optimal design for flow as well once it opens it creates peripheral air movement also not conducive for the intended direction for optimal gas flow.

Some argue that since bolt on's work i am splitting hairs, oh well. Most properly sized garrett turbo's ive seen dyno higher than comparible bolt on's with the acception of FP's equipment. Notice the wastegate placement on the FP units (not internal, and not located on the O2 housing of a 5 bolt turbo), and try to deny their achievements with bolt on housings hasn't trumped all efforts before them.

Wategate placement is the only thing hindering AMS gt35rl unit IMO, they have creep issues and well the 5 bolt housing is not as efficient.

I just wish I had known some things like this before I A. blindly made decisions on some thing I didn't know enough about, and B. figured I could save some money on for the mean time. It is almost retarded how many times I read go external and forget about it and failed to listen, and now I am sitting here saying it. Lol.

 

[daren_p]

Okay, this is driving me nuts & Im spending way to much time trying to find info but Im slowely getting there,.

So I found this link:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-005&Category_Code=GRT

They show a variety of different housings. The GT housing is the best which is a 4 bolt outlet, that starts at 2.5 and expands out to 3". Issue with this is the outlet mounting surface is much further away from the turbine, which will probably cause clearance issues when trying to get a 3" O2 housing to fit (alternator). Now Garrett never offered a 5 bolt T31 style housing for this turbo but when it first came out ATP worked with them in designing their own 5 bolt housing, that mimicks the GT housings geometry & while the GT is the best if you can make it work, if you can't, their 5 bolt is supposed to be the best of any offered & not much of a difference in performance.

Now the std Garrett comp cover for the GT3076 is a 4" inlet portshrouded E cover with a 2" outlet, which some didn't think was available. Maybe its PTE who only offers the 4" PS inlet once you step up to the S cover.

Im still wondering about 4 bolt to 5 bolt turbine housing placement differences (block clearance) with the turbonetics mani so if someone has some info, pas it along....

 

[definitiveno]

Okay, this is driving me nuts & Im spending way to much time trying to find info but Im slowely getting there,.

So I found this link:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-005&Category_Code=GRT

They show a variety of different housings. The GT housing is the best which is a 4 bolt outlet, that starts at 2.5 and expands out to 3". Issue with this is the outlet mounting surface is much further away from the turbine, which will probably cause clearance issues when trying to get a 3" O2 housing to fit (alternator). Now Garrett never offered a 5 bolt T31 style housing for this turbo but when it first came out ATP worked with them in designing their own 5 bolt housing, that mimicks the GT housings geometry & while the GT is the best if you can make it work, if you can't, their 5 bolt is supposed to be the best of any offered & not much of a difference in performance.

Now the std Garrett comp cover for the GT3076 is a 4" inlet portshrouded E cover with a 2" outlet, which some didn't think was available. Maybe its PTE who only offers the 4" PS inlet once you step up to the S cover.

Im still wondering about 4 bolt to 5 bolt turbine housing placement differences (block clearance) with the turbonetics mani so if someone has some info, pas it along....

internal gate < external gate

If you are planning on going t3 4 bolt or gt is the only way, if you don't like the standard t3 4 bolt, than FP all they way. While the benifits are there (that is a much better design than our mitsu counterparts) I wouldn't bother with a t3 only to stay internally gated. I will be using a t31 4 bolt on my car.

 

[91-gsx]

Okay, this is driving me nuts & Im spending way to much time trying to find info but Im slowely getting there,.

So I found this link:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-005&Category_Code=GRT

They show a variety of different housings. The GT housing is the best which is a 4 bolt outlet, that starts at 2.5 and expands out to 3". Issue with this is the outlet mounting surface is much further away from the turbine, which will probably cause clearance issues when trying to get a 3" O2 housing to fit (alternator). Now Garrett never offered a 5 bolt T31 style housing for this turbo but when it first came out ATP worked with them in designing their own 5 bolt housing, that mimicks the GT housings geometry & while the GT is the best if you can make it work, if you can't, their 5 bolt is supposed to be the best of any offered & not much of a difference in performance.

Now the std Garrett comp cover for the GT3076 is a 4" inlet portshrouded E cover with a 2" outlet, which some didn't think was available. Maybe its PTE who only offers the 4" PS inlet once you step up to the S cover.

Im still wondering about 4 bolt to 5 bolt turbine housing placement differences (block clearance) with the turbonetics mani so if someone has some info, pas it along....

I bought a turbonetics t3 manifold, which I think is the same as the treadstone manifold. I also went with a 4 bolt sc6152 in the 4" SP cover. I also have heard that it might not fit, but I will find out very soon. I am going with the standard 2.5" outlet. 1) for more room to make a o2 housing. and 2) many people have made a lot of power on a 2.5" o2 housing, one that comes to mind was evil eagle on the FP turbos.

I also dont have a welder and was setup to run a mitsubishi housing. I already had a tubular o2 housing and downpipe to match the mitsu housing. I am going to start by smogging my car very soon, right after finals next week. Then I will put the turbo on and cut the 2.5" steel U-bend that I bought to fit the 4 bolt flange. Then at the end make a hole for the o2 bung. I hope I can get everything to fit well. If I do get it to fit right, it will make for a nice sleeper. Stock looking exterior, exhaust and fmic(black). Also looking into alcohol injection, which should make this a fun car to drive with 25-30psi .
later

 

[daren_p]

internal gate < external gate

If you are planning on going t3 4 bolt or gt is the only way, if you don't like the standard t3 4 bolt, than FP all they way. While the benifits are there (that is a much better design than our mitsu counterparts) I wouldn't bother with a t3 only to stay internally gated. I will be using a t31 4 bolt on my car.

I won't be using an internal gate, think you've miss read my post. I want external off the manifold. I want to go cast mani so that means Turbonetics style. This mani was designed for the 5 bolt, the 4 bolt housing places the turbine closer to the block so I don't believe it will bolt up as the clearance is already supposed to be close with the 5 bolt. The 5 bolt that ATP offeres is mirrored off the GT internals, not just the old style T31 5 bolt housing machined to fit the GT3076 wheel. The O2 housing I would be running would be the one that has the block off plate cover the hole where a O2 mounted external gate could be placed. You can't run an internal with this style of 5 bolt housing even if you wanted to becasue there would be no place for the flapper to open up into, unless you have some crazy designed O2 housing.

The housing I would be getting would be the second down from the top, the 5 bolt designed with an internal WG is the second from the bottom.

91-gsx, keep us updated if you can infact get the 4 bolt housing to fit. On your turbonetics mani can you take a measurement from the center of the closer to the head flange bolt hole to the flange mounting surface?

 

[91-gsx]

91-gsx, keep us updated if you can infact get the 4 bolt housing to fit. On your turbonetics mani can you take a measurement from the center of the closer to the head flange bolt hole to the flange mounting surface?

I did one better when I got the turbo and the manifold. I mounted the turbo on the manifold to see if the turbo would clear the length of the manifold atleast when it was mounted on the engine. It does barely clear the manifold were it mounts to the head. I also have a 4-layer manifold to head gasket, and a thick t3 gasket from slowboy. This should help a little in dropping the turbo down and bringing it out more. I hope that I can just crush the water pipe slightly to get it to fit, but more modification might be required.
later

 

[LRS95TSI]

let's try to keep the info on this thread ACTUALLY in this thread and instead of in MYBEATGSX's thread...this is why ppl have a hard time searching, becuz a great thread gets started and either ends abrubtly or gets contiued in another thread....

sorry mini rant

on topic: since i keep running my mouth about the v-band housing, is it true that you can only get the vband with a 76 ar? what about the fitment issues daren keeps speaking of between the 4 and 5 bolts...does the vband fit better or worse?

 

[daren_p]

let's try to keep the info on this thread ACTUALLY in this thread and instead of in MYBEATGSX's thread...this is why ppl have a hard time searching, becuz a great thread gets started and either ends abrubtly or gets contiued in another thread....

sorry mini rant

on topic: since i keep running my mouth about the v-band housing, is it true that you can only get the vband with a 76 ar? what about the fitment issues daren keeps speaking of between the 4 and 5 bolts...does the vband fit better or worse?

LRS95TSI, the info posted in the other thread also happened to be related to what he was trying to do

Okay, so here the update, after hours of more searching & asking vendors more questions. With the Turbonetics manifold you can make both the 5 bolt which it was designed for & the 4 bolt housing work. There is one main difference the 5 bolt will bolt directly bolt up with no issues, the 4 bolt won't. If you want to bolt up the 4 bolt housing you need to get a spacer that fits between the mani & turbo. Apparently HRC sells this spacer. If you look at the mani design it points the turbo at an angle away from the block so even though a 4 bolt one won't clear when hooked directly up, when you add the spacer, this extra distance will allow for clearance becasue of the mani flange angle compared to the block.

While the 4 & 5 bolt have the same physical size/design with different outlets styles, its the inlet flange location that is also different between the two. Its this change in inlet flange location that moves the 4 bolts assembly slightly back compared to the 5 bolt & this is why you run into block ckearance.

As for the V band I haven't researced it but I believe it is also a custom housing that ATP sells & if compare the pics it too looks to have the same inlet flange placement as the 4 bolt housing. This would lead me to believe you can run it but you will need to get the turbo to mani spacer for it to clear the block.

Okay now for my next question Whats everybodys opinion on the 5 bolt vs the 4 bolt housing? The advantage of the 4 bolt is no hole for an external WG off the O2 housing to have the least amount of turbulance at the turbine inlet. The downfall is the spacer, its additional cost & the possibility for one more leak as you now have to run 2 gaskets. Then there is the 5 bolt housing. The one from ATP has been designed to mirror the GT housing internally & I was told was the best option if I couldn't fit the GT housing (I haven't talked about the GT housing much but it is the newest version housing that has 4 bolts but a 3" outlet vs the std 2.5" found on the older designed T series 4 & 5 bolt housings that I have been refering too. The outlet flange n this style housing is also placed much further away from the turbine wheel. This basically means a custom 3" O2 housing & downpipe as you probably won't be able to get a tight enough 3" bend to bolt up to the stock location of the DP. Plus it may not even fit because of alternator clearance) Im not sure if the "reg" 4 bolt has been designed to mirror the GT's internals (which would be a downfall if it wasn't vs the ATP 5 bolt). The only downfall I can see with the ATP housing is that it has the hole for the external, that would be blocked off with the O2 housing plate. Im waiting to see if this housing is available without this hole as that would make it the best of everything. Another option is the PTE 5 bolt, it appears that you can get it without the hole for the external. Im waiting to hear if this PTE housing has been cast to mirror the GT housing internally or is it the std older T series housing that has just been machined to accept the GT3076 turbine wheel.

 

[LRS95TSI]

correct, however the same thing was being discussed in this thread as well as far as exhaust housing for turbo's....no biggie, just wanted to keep a successful thread going

any who, i think pictures identifying each type of exhaust housing for the 3076 would be nice....then repliers can post with a number representing the specific exhaust housing and give their opinions / assumptions.

i don't think that spacer would cause too much of a problem, but what about a different manifold choice or a t3 adapter plate?

MY argument is, that if one chooses the 4 bolt housing, it doesn't make any sense to me on why you just wouldn't choose the vband...they have the same concept, but the 4 bolt requires 4 bolts instead of a simple 7/16 or 11/16 vband clamp? also you mentioned the 4 bolt can come with a 3 inch outlet which would be great for running an authentic 3" exhaust...do they offer a 3 inch vband. or is that standard? and what AR's do these housing's come in with the appropriate options....

also, are you considering the 5 bolt hosuing mainly because it bolts to a stock o2 housing?


more visual references will help us all to determine which is the most effective/efficient/ and easier/cheaper to work with

 

[definitiveno]

correct, however the same thing was being discussed in this thread as well as far as exhaust housing for turbo's....no biggie, just wanted to keep a successful thread going

any who, i think pictures identifying each type of exhaust housing for the 3076 would be nice....then repliers can post with a number representing the specific exhaust housing and give their opinions / assumptions.

i don't think that spacer would cause too much of a problem, but what about a different manifold choice or a t3 adapter plate?

MY argument is, that if one chooses the 4 bolt housing, it doesn't make any sense to me on why you just wouldn't choose the vband...they have the same concept, but the 4 bolt requires 4 bolts instead of a simple 7/16 or 11/16 vband clamp? also you mentioned the 4 bolt can come with a 3 inch outlet which would be great for running an authentic 3" exhaust...do they offer a 3 inch vband. or is that standard? and what AR's do these housing's come in with the appropriate options....

also, are you considering the 5 bolt hosuing mainly because it bolts to a stock o2 housing?


more visual references will help us all to determine which is the most effective/efficient/ and easier/cheaper to work with

there's 2 types of 4 bolts, one is the t31 4 bolt wich has a very low profile and gives us adiquate space to install an o2 housing, thee other tapers out from 2.5 to 3 inch and stands about 2.5 3 inches off the housing cramping the radious of the O2 into the power steering. Look for some thing called t3, or t31, or ford 4 bolt to see what he is talking about.

 

[daren_p]

correct, however the same thing was being discussed in this thread as well as far as exhaust housing for turbo's....no biggie, just wanted to keep a successful thread going

any who, i think pictures identifying each type of exhaust housing for the 3076 would be nice....then repliers can post with a number representing the specific exhaust housing and give their opinions / assumptions.

i don't think that spacer would cause too much of a problem, but what about a different manifold choice or a t3 adapter plate?

MY argument is, that if one chooses the 4 bolt housing, it doesn't make any sense to me on why you just wouldn't choose the vband...they have the same concept, but the 4 bolt requires 4 bolts instead of a simple 7/16 or 11/16 vband clamp? also you mentioned the 4 bolt can come with a 3 inch outlet which would be great for running an authentic 3" exhaust...do they offer a 3 inch vband. or is that standard? and what AR's do these housing's come in with the appropriate options....

also, are you considering the 5 bolt hosuing mainly because it bolts to a stock o2 housing?


more visual references will help us all to determine which is the most effective/efficient/ and easier/cheaper to work with

A visual link was posted earlier

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-005&Category_Code=GRT

Some of the housing listed are custom ATP cast housing and not available everywhere. You are getting confussed on housing choices. Like definitiveno just said & I have explained above th GT version of the housing has 4 bolts & a 3" outlet but this outlet location is much further out from the turbine wheel compared to the T31 style T3 housing (look at how far out the flange is in the top pic compared to the flange in the 2nd & 3rd pic) that have been mainly discussed in this thread. This puts the flange location much closer to the alternator & then you need to try & fit a 3" bend in there. If it is possible to make it work with that housing you would defently need a custom downpipe & O2 housing. They offer a vband setup in this same GT housing but you run into the same issue. The T31 style 4 & 5 bolts are what most use. As for this style & the vband, you would be able to run it with the spacer I talked about & a custom O2 housing. This housing doesn't normally exist but I believe I saw on the ATP site where they machined a normal 4 bolt T31 housing into a vband flange. If its an option for the 3076 wheel, this I do not know.

Why am I thinking about the 5 bolt? No it won't bolt up to the stock O2 housing but there are companies out there that make a 2.5"O2 housing that I can buy & just bolt up. The main advantage of the 5 bolt is that you don't need the mani/turbo spaser to fit it with the Turbonetics mani. The 5 bolt that ATP offers has also been cast to mirror the GT turbine housing as well, which is the best performing turbine housing as it was designed specifically for the GT series of turbo's. Im not sure if the std T31 style 4 bolt housing has been designed like the GT housing internally or do they just machine a std housing to fit the 3076 turbine wheel. Im trying to figure this out right now & if they just machine it to fit the wheel, the ATP 5 bolt would offer another big advantage being it mimmicks the best flowing GT housing.

 

[daren_p]

To add to my previous post,

Looks like you can probably get the T31 style 4 bolt vband as an option:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-074&Category_Code=BCS

For some that are getting confussed there are 3 main T3 housing available for the GT series turbos:

GT 4 bolt housing: has 3" outlet, spaced far from turbine wheel making it hard if possible to bolt up on our setups. If is possible needs turbo/mani spacer

T31 4 bolt housing: has 2.5" outlet, older design used on the T series turbo's (50 trim, 6trim, etc), need mani to turbo spacer to work with Turbonetics mani.

T31 5 bolt housing: has 2.5" outlet, ATP's custom housing has been cast internally to mimmick the GT housing. Bolt right up to turbonetics mani.

Then there are also vband options to the above GT (which probably won't work becasue of reasons discussed above) or the T31 4 bolt that ATP custom machines.