Problems after DSMLink install..

[rock0134]

I installed dsmlink in my garage and also rewired the stock fuel pump (have 190 waiting) and I finally got to take it for a drive today and it idles somewhat normal but sputters every few seconds.

I still am on stock injectors and fuel pump. I have global and deadtime set to 0.

When I took it for a drive, it drove normal but then at stops it would idle and sputter again. And when I boosted a little a huge cloud of smoke came out of the exhaust and felt like it had hardly any power compared to normal.

***Ok, so it ran fine before I installed dsmlink, and rewired the fuel pump.... Does anyone have an idea what the hell is going on?

 

[Supa Dexta]

Post a log on the link forums, and you'll be sorted out in no time.

 

[talontd92tsi]

Yes, the dsmlink guys are uber quick are that stuff.

 

[blazeonenet]

as trivial as it seems, what color smoke was it, white, black, grey?

 

[rock0134]

I think it was more whitish, I only got a quick rear view glance though. When I stepped on it, had super bad lag and then it spooled slow as hell. I have no idea what the hell is up.

 

[rock0134]

I am pretty positive I rewired the fuel pump good, if I didn't... would it not run?

One other thing I did was new plugs brp7es I gapped them at .28... If they were gapped too wide would that cause this kind of problems?

 

[blazeonenet]

If you get it to smoke again and happen to get a view of it, remember White smoke = water/coolant, black smoke is generally running super rich, and grey/blue smoke is oil/hc's.
Have you done a boost leak check recently?
sorry I cant be of more help I have no experience with dsm link thus far.

 

[rock0134]

I did a boost leak test last summer and haven't changed anything... it ran find a week ago before I installed link and rewired the pump and did the plugs...


Here is a link to the log if anyone can help me that would be awesome. I put this on dsmlink forum too.

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[BoostFrenzy]

If your BLT test was a summer ago, you need to do one again. Do one and report back if you find a weird leak somewhere.

From your log, it looks like your car isn't even trying to correct the fuel trims at idle because it just stays pig rich. During this log, were you logging your front O2 sensor? Do a log of your LTFT Lo and LTFT Mid to see if they are within the proper %.

And from your fuel, I see that you have -3 pulled out of your global. If you are running stock 450cc injectors, put that back to zero. Lower your idle back down to 750RPM. And post another log to see if you find anything different. Good luck.

 

[rock0134]

So if for some reason the rewire was wrong or something, would it even run? I want to eliminate that out of the possible problems first.

What would the effects be if the plugs were gapped too wide??

 

[BoostFrenzy]

What would the effects be if the plugs were gapped too wide??

Depending on how wide, the spark would get blown out and there wouldn't be ignition under boost. At idle, I'm not sure.

 

[rock0134]

Another thing is, that stock gauge on the left I'm guessing it's oil pressure? It doesn't move it sits all the way at the bottom? What does that mean?

 

[blazeonenet]

So if for some reason the rewire was wrong or something, would it even run? I want to eliminate that out of the possible problems first.

Well if you want to eliminate the fuel pump, use a multimeter set to DC/V, test for power and ground at the fuel pump connector. If they are good, grab a fuel pressure tester, if I remember right the stock pump puts out 42-46 PSI at idle.

For the plug gap, that can cause all kinds of different problems, at my shop the most common symptoms of the DIY tune-up overgapped plug, is either p0300 random missfire, or p0301-0302-0303-0304 (numbered sequentially to tell you which cylinder, ie: p0301 = cyl 1 missfire)

 

[rock0134]

What is the best way to gap the plugs, I have the circle gapper that goes on a keychain and you slide the plug up until that point. I think they were right, I am going to go regap them right now.

Has anyone taken a look at the log?

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Another thing is, that stock gauge on the left I'm guessing it's oil pressure? It doesn't move it sits all the way at the bottom? What does that mean?

Thats fine. Mine does that too. I only get a reading once I am on the gas where the engine RPM is higher. If you are really worried about your oil pressure, get an after market gauge. But if you don't have any leaks or any engine problems, you should be fine.

 

[Avionixx]

So do you have a hacked MAS? I happened to look into the airflow settings and noticed they're set up for a hacked 2G mas. The compensations look fairly drastic, so this could have something to do with the issues you're having.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

What is the best way to gap the plugs, I have the circle gapper that goes on a keychain and you slide the plug up until that point.

Those are known to be incorrect for the most part. You should get one of these: Spark Plug Gap and Feeler Gauge

If you could, PM me your email and I can send a file I have for tunning with DSMLink.

 

[crimsondragon]

What is the best way to gap the plugs, I have the circle gapper that goes on a keychain and you slide the plug up until that point. I think they were right, I am going to go regap them right now.

Has anyone taken a look at the log?

Use a wire gauge. It's better.

 

[rock0134]

where is the hacked maf option I can't find it?

 

[Avionixx]

There is no hacked MAF option; if you go to your airflow settings, you can see that they're not zeroed. According to the manual, those are the correct settings for someone using a hacked 2G MAS.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

There is no hacked MAF function. You need to do a log of MAFSD and MAFRAW and calibrate your MAF if you have removed any honeycombs. Go to the dsmlink forums and read up on the wiki, it is EXCELLENT for someone just starting out.

 

[rock0134]

I still have the stock maf and both honeycombs. So you are saying that on that log it is set up wrong?

 

[welfle18]

I always used a feeler gauge to set up the gaps. And I would say that if you have your rewire wrong its not even going to start. I know because I hooked up the 86 or 30 (don't quite remember which one it was, but it had to do with the actual existing pump + wire anyways) terminal and the 87 terminal back wards and it wouldn't start. If you have a bad ground or positive feed it wouldnt work either obviously so I think that you can rule that one out. Like stated before you are running real rich at idle but I just started Link myself so I wont be much help there.

 

[rock0134]

A guy on the dsmlink forum noticed my front o2 is shot? Would that maybe have something to do with it?

How much/Where to get an o2 sensor from? Are they universal?

Does getting aem wideband replace the stock o2 sensor?

Sorry for so many questions I'm just stressed.

 

[NB4G63T]

Yes , very important for closed loop operation. A wide band is a very good investment as it can be logged through the rear o2 senser input. And buy an oem mitsu o2 or at least denso, you can find universal denso o2's on ebay for about 30 buck, I've used them and they work great.