The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Preventing Crankwalk

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Itlooksfast

15+ Year Contributor
128
0
Jun 25, 2005
Alexandria, Virginia
hey wassup.....i got a 97 gsx with the 7bolt engine...i know that they crankwalk alot. Beside swapping the engine from 7bolts to 6bolts what can i do to prevent crankwalking? internals? i was thinking of getting the Slowboy Racing short block or get the whole long block and get the racing heads from a 6bolt 4g63......but if i can save money by doing engine work on my current enginge now then i would. But if i cant prevent crankwalks then i would spent $4k on a rebuilt head and short block if that what it takes to stop crankwalking
 
go outside,sit down,light one up,take a drink of beer,relax,finish your beer.there now don'tyou feel better?thats about all you can do to prevent crankwalk,you gotta dsm,man,your lucky.Don't worry be happy.If it's gonna happen theres nothing you can do about it,soo F%^k it and just ride man.
 
I've heard you can remove the clutch switch (not sure exactly what you call it, it's to where you don't have to push the clutch in to start the car) and use sythetic oil, but I am not sure if it really does anything. Also I heard you should try and avoid using a heavy duty clutch if you can.

These are just the things I've 'heard'.
 
The safety cluch mod is supposed to help some, especially with a heavy clutch. The bearings do not get lubricated very well before the car starts. The mod helps this problem.
 
The clutch switch will help, it allows you to start the car without pushing the clutch. However, make sure the car is in neutral before starting it.

There isn't any real way to prevent it. If your worried about it, id suggest saving a little extra money on the side somewhere, then IF you get crankwalk, fix the problem with either a 6 bolt or some other 7 bolt. Don't just go out and buy another engine when your's is fine now. You may never get crankwalk, and alot more don't then the ones that do.
 
read this link, I've quoted teh important conclusion, its a must read for any 2g turbo owner
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm

The good cranks were knifedged and balanced, the bearings were specially coated, the oil pumps were new from mitsubishi, the squirters were blocked, yes blocked and no squirters were put in place. Why the no squirter? When we machined a block to accept the 1g squirter we soon enough realized that no other machine shop out there was going to be wiling to do this kind of work to the block. Us selling kits wouldn't matter if people had nowhere to do the install. Instead taking from what we had done before we eliminated the squirters' altogether. We had been doing this for some time now in race motors to eliminate the possibility of windage, small loss of power due to oil being squirt onto the rods and pistons. Many V-tec honda motors have them welded up to take advantage of this effect. Now before you all jump out and say "we need the squirter", take this into account, I have heard of many cases of the squirters' on 1g's breaking off and falling into the oil pan because of harsh vibration (out of phase balance shafts), we have even seen them in person, doing oil changes, and dropping oil pans.

In my 1g 6bolt motor they were gone a long time ago, I eliminated them in my build-up. That particular engine ran many trouble free miles and is still running today. No ill effects from this mod. I am not going to discuss the virtues of squirter or no squirter because I can go on forever, I am just going to tell you if you so desire we can retrofit the 1g squirters to your block just ship it to us.

So far 2 engines built are running flawlessly and we are happy to report no failures thus far, only time will tell. As extra precautions we have removed the clutch switches to help on startup.
 
I read this far -
When we machined a block to accept the 1g squirter we soon enough realized that no other machine shop out there was going to be wiling to do this kind of work to the block.
Then stopped. I have had 3 blocks machined for squirters. Other machine shops besides them can and will do it.
 
thanx guys....so basically even if i do internals and work on the engine it wouldnt help it at all. Well since there is no choice for me but to swap it to 6bolts i guess i will. Also the racing heads, short blocks, long blocks, and the stroker kit from SBR.....are they for 6bolts or 7bolts? cuz im thinking since i have to do the swap, i might as well get a built one.
 
Itlooksfast said:
thanx guys....so basically even if i do internals and work on the engine it wouldnt help it at all. Well since there is no choice for me but to swap it to 6bolts i guess i will. Also the racing heads, short blocks, long blocks, and the stroker kit from SBR.....are they for 6bolts or 7bolts? cuz im thinking since i have to do the swap, i might as well get a built one.


Internals will not help stop crankwalk

Is your engine already walked? if not, why replace it now?

If you are going to swap, might as well go built, but I wouldn't tear out a perfectly good engine just because some day it MIGHT get crankwalk.
 
HighPsi's right - it's a waste of money if the engine isn't exhibiting signs of crankwalk. I think the general consensus is that ~15% of 2G's have been known to crankwalk. Of which, I would put a fair guess that quite a few of them were running heavy-duty aftermarket clutches and other things that put extra stress on the thrust bearing.

Bottom line, if ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
oh yea i know.....i was just wondering if theres anything i can do now to prevent it from happening..since i cant then i guess i keep this one til it crankwalks. so basically get rid of the clutch switch and get a clutch kit that matches my desire hps. Just out of curiousity...are all 6bolts 4g63t engine JDM, USDM or its doesnt even matter? cuz if its JDM wouldnt you have to modify some stuff to make it pass the emission and make it legal?

also..is it worth to get a racing short block, racing heads or longblock from SBR? or is there any other place that sell built engines parts? thanx for the help guys
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top