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prerequisites for a 16g turbo and 650cc injectors

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smoked28

10+ Year Contributor
101
4
Jul 14, 2012
Keystone Heights, Florida
Hi, I just bought my first DSM. It is a 95 Eclipse GST. The guy I bought it from gave me the following description:

The car has a 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block...
a 16g turbo in the stock housing
NGK plugs and wires
forged pistons and crank
gates racing belt
Greddy BOV
(thats all as far as the engine goes)

I got the car very cheap ($1350) because he claimed that the engine has low compression in 2 cylinders and thinks that it needs a rebuild. It would start up and run but it took a while to get it warmed up (or it would stall) and even after it was warmed up it didn't run the greatest.
I took the car to my mechanic who preformed a compression test and said that it has excellent compression for the age of the car and that all that is wrong with it is it needs an idle control sensor (I think?) replaced. Also the fuel is very rich(not sure if thats important?)

I am in the process of getting it fixed but my question is what do I need to do to the car in order to put a 16g turbo and 650cc injectors on it? and also since I have a 16g turbine in the stock housing would it even be wise to put a 16g on it? Also the boost gauge says I'm pushing 25 lbs. Why is it pushing so much??


Thank you for your help and sorry for the long post!
 
You have a vacuum/pressure leak. Do a leakdown test (similar but not the same as, a compression test). The gauge will read a higher pressure than the engine is seeing, the turbo is overworking itself, and the car will be down on power.

The easiest/safest way to stick a 16g on with 650's would be to run a maf-t setup and turn the dial inside the maf-t to "650". There are other slapstick ways like running a 2g maf but why bother. The more expensive way would be to run some type of aftermarket ecu modifier such as ostrich or ecmlink.
 
since I have a 16g turbine in the stock housing would it even be wise to put a 16g on it?
What?!? :confused:
Also the boost gauge says I'm pushing 25 lbs. Why is it pushing so much??
Wastegate actuator might be bad, the flapper might be stuck, etc... try running the vacuum line directly to the actuator.

dsmfa9nutter said:
The easiest/safest way to stick a 16g on with 650's would be to run a maf-t setup and turn the dial inside the maf-t to "650".

Perhaps you meant cheaper? Nothing is easier or safer than ecmlink :D
 
what were the compression readings?

When my mechanic did the test I believe he said they were all right at 180

You have a vacuum/pressure leak. Do a leakdown test (similar but not the same as, a compression test). The gauge will read a higher pressure than the engine is seeing, the turbo is overworking itself, and the car will be down on power.

The easiest/safest way to stick a 16g on with 650's would be to run a maf-t setup and turn the dial inside the maf-t to "650". There are other slapstick ways like running a 2g maf but why bother. The more expensive way would be to run some type of aftermarket ecu modifier such as ostrich or ecmlink.

Alright I'll let my mechanic know so he can check it. And I wanted DSMLINK for other reasons as well so I think I will just go with the more expensive option. I appreciate your help!

Get a wideband and dsmlink. Then put the injectors in and put the turbo on. Better to be safe then sry.

Forgive my ignorance but would you mind explaining exactly what a wideband does? I am new to DSM and boosted cars in general. I appreciate it!
 
Well I have an air/fuel ratio gauge. That's how I know its running rich

You might have it mistaken for a narrow band gauge that says lean and rich right on the gauge, this gauge will do you no good. Can you post up a Picture? What brand is it?
 
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