Post your sputter, mis-fire, buck, stutter, etc...

[Primaveria]

I have this issue in my car and it is really annoying. Mine does it under moderate to full throttle and generally above 3000 rpms. I changed the plugs and the wires (both to top quality NGKs) and that helped but did not solve the issue. I plan on swapping in a new coil and seeing if that helps.

Mods:
1996 GSX
K&N Filter
Greddy Type S
Bushur Racing 2.5" cat-back
Wastegate solenoid plug removed.

 

[duke52]

Hello,
I have a 91 Eclipse GST. It idles good and runs fine as far as everyday driving. But if I try to get on it, it pulls hard until about 5k and then it feels like I slammed into a brick wall. After a second or so it pulls hard again before it slams into another wall. Definitely want a seatbelt if your gonna get on it... otherwise you'll be eating steering wheel. Plugs and wires are new. No solution found as of yet.

PastDue

Sounds like fuel cut PastDue, what mods do you have done?

 

[PastDue]

duke52,

Thats what it seems like to me as well. But my car is in stock form. There are absolutely no mods done to it. So I really dont understand where Im getting it from.


PastDue

 

[ddavisaf]

Everyone having this kind of problem needs to first and fore most, run a Boost Leak Test.
Secondly, you need to make sure the spark plugs in the vehicle are NGK BPR 6ES gapped at about .028". Yes, NGK BPR 7ES will work for a mostly stock vehicle, however they will foul more quickly than will the 6ES plug.
So your boost leak test came out perfect? And you've got good plugs? Alright, now it's time to check the plug wires and the coil pack.
Grab yourself a multimeter and test the primary coil's resistance and the secondary coil's resistance. HERE is a guide to help.
Okay, so boost leak test, spark plugs, and coil pack all tested good. Have you tested your plug wires yet? Ohm them out. The max resistance should be 22k. Anything less than 22k ohms is acceptable.

Still having a problem?
Well, have you checked the knock sensor? It's located on the backside of the block below the intake manifold. If you see a black "goo" dripping from the knock sensor then you'll need to replace it.
Other things to look at include:
MAS
Fuel Filter
Weak fuel pump

Hopefully this'll help more than a couple of ya out there!

 

[Generation X]

My car bucks after wot, if I let off slow or fast. BOV sounds good, replaced ISC.

You may have a very bad boost leak somewhere. I would start with that first.

 

[gsxboost20g]

I just dyno tuned again today. I had an intermittent misfire in mid to high rpm under high boost. I had Magnacore wires. I have at least 50k on them. Big mistake. I put brand new ones on, Problem solved! I totally forgot that wires are a wear item...

 

[Generation X]

I just dyno tuned again today. I had an intermittent misfire in mid to high rpm under high boost. I had Magnacore wires. I have at least 50k on them. Big mistake. I put brand new ones on, Problem solved! I totally forgot that wires are a wear item...

That's funny you say that bro, because I've got a set of magnecors hanging on a hook down in my basement as I type.

I kept having problems with them a long time ago with mis-firing as you did, and soon there after I switched over to Accels and never looked back.

I'm not dissing Magnecors or anything, because I may have just gotten a bad set.

I know plenty of people that use them with no problems at all.

 

[84003TSI]

Am I going to break anything if I drive it while stuttering? I'm sure my check engine is the knock sensor ### it runs like S%$T right now, I just can't afford to blow anything more expensive. It'll only be to get to the store to get new wires and plugs, Just wondering if that will ruin anything else.

 

[drmcstroks]

I've been having a similar problem. the spuddering happens at any rpm under WOT or close to it. i did a boost leak test (fixed the leaks, holds 20psi for and hour then i disconnected it) ohmed the coil pack (within spec), replaced the plugs and wires and i still have the problem. im seriously at a loss. i had a new engine put in by mitsu about a year ago and ive put 10k miles on the car since. mods are in my profile.

 

[v2ner]

What exactly did you do to "hack" the MAS...and have you tried running with a regular MAS?

 

[cfisher]

I've been having a similar problem. the spuddering happens at any rpm under WOT or close to it. i did a boost leak test (fixed the leaks, holds 20psi for and hour then i disconnected it) ohmed the coil pack (within spec), replaced the plugs and wires and i still have the problem. im seriously at a loss. i had a new engine put in by mitsu about a year ago and ive put 10k miles on the car since. mods are in my profile.

Not doubting you by anymeans but is holding 20psi for over an hour even possible. I really have no boost leaks but it slowly dies down and I lose about 1psi per minute.

 

[drmcstroks]

"hacking" the mas means removing the bottom honeycomb, then removing the silicone on the bottom of the mas and unscrewing the screw that the silicone is hiding... helps lean the car out because the screw. i kno the car is running really rich ### every once in a while it backfires and black smoke comes out the exhaust. mine will spudder and make that "machine gun" noise pretty much at any rpm. things i've done to help it...

1. fuel system cleaner
2. fixed boost leaks
3. replaced plugs and wires
4. turned boost down to 13 from 17

this has helped but has not eliminated the problem and i really dont know what else to do.
also... my knock reading on the afc jumps all over the place since the problem started... not to dangerous levels though... it goes like 1.0.2.5.0.10.2.3 etc... and another thing, when it startes to make that "machine gun" noise, my buddy noticed that the TPS reading on the afc jumps all over as well. any help much appreciated.

ps dunno if it was a full hour but it was for a while. and i was running with the regular MAS when it happened thats why i changed it.

 

[v2ner]

Yea, I know what hack the MAS means. I was just trying to make sure you didn't overdue it. DSMs run rich out of the factory to save to motor. Are you sure you programmed your AFC correctly? I'm not ripping on you but I ask this because you actually hooked up the knock feature when you're not supposed to on a 2G.

 

[drmcstroks]

well i didnt know that... anyways i didnt change any settings on the afc... 0 across the board

 

[Terrh]

guess I'll post mine too!

Mine just recently started to buck at low RPM light throttle cruise, say 2500-3000rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear.
I'm thinking TPS out of adjustment maybe? I dunno.

 

[corrado620]

I have a similar problem. I have had the car for about three months, and has most of the stage two done to it. And this has been happening the whole time and i cannot fine out what it is.

Ok, the CEL goes on, the car seems fine. It is fine when it is cold or warming up. But when I drive at a constant speed(engine hot), every once in a while my engine has a constant misfire and the A/F gauge is pegged to lean. It will do this until: A)I turn off the engine during driving, B)If i put the stick in neutral(or press the clutch) for a certain amount of time, or C) I clear the misfire cod. Now, as a side note my speedo stopped working for about a week(until i fixed it) and during that time no code showed up and the problem was gone. And it seems the faster constant speed i go the more frequent it does this. Oh yeah, once the CEL goes on it stays on until cleared, it is just the actual misfire that comes and goes. When it is gone the car runs awsome.

I have no idea what this problem can be.

Corrado

 

[drmcstroks]

solution its a bad TPS... guess i didnt check it right the first time... btw... you dont have to take off the throttle body to get the TPS off... i used a foot long extension on a 1/4'' drive with a swivel 8mm... no problem

 

[nubiebubie_gsx]

Well bought the car with a 6 bolt swap. Drove it home and a week later got the dreaded random missfire while cruising. After spending lots of money on test and coils, and wires, and CAS, and TPS i fixed the problem. The previous owner before selling it put new plugs in and decided to put in ngk platnium plugs. I read online somewhere that 1st gen motors dont like platnium plugs and you get uncontrollable nocks with them. So after reading i put in ngk bpr6es and my problem is gone. Hope that helps.

 

[DSMrallyDriver]

I have a freshly rebuilt engine that is mis-firing under any more then 2 or 3 psi. I have new NGKs gapped at .28, I've played with the safc, redone the timming a couple of times just to be sure and the coil pack has maybe 3k miles on it. The car idles fine, revs fine but if there is any boost it has a loud misfire and it seems a little rough at ~2k. I am guessing boost leak though I have yet to test and I it's about that time where I should replace my wires.

 

[Blkbomber]

I had been putting off posting in here for a few days so I could search out a solution and I haven't found one yet so here goes. One night while out cruisin after work I jumped onto my off ramp for home and just pushed the car around the turn with the throttle. All of a sudden I was bucking and jumping and had a cel. So I let off and coast to the light and the car went back to normal. It didn't do it again for a few days so I didn't think much of it but then I hit a bump and the car bucked and died! I sat there for 5 minutes with the negative cable undone to clear the count and it started right up and ran fine. The problem is that now it seems worse as it comes and goes and trying to keep it started after this happens is getting on my nerves. I've done the boost leak test and have none and the compression is 150 across the board. This really pisses me of since I just spent $1800 for a head and don't want to ruin it.

 

[nubiebubie_gsx]

Okay well i take back my previous post. The spark plugs changed it still misses. Just took a lot of driving. Now its back to missfiring always when cruising. Away i got around it was while cruising accel hard then coast then accel then coast. just to maintain speed and not miss. But if i keep gas pedal steady at a set position, the car will missfire. Also after changing to another throttle body I had my car bucks hard and rpm fluctuates on 1st and 2nd gear. The previous throttle body was sticking. Gonna change the TPS sensor and ICS sensor to the previous one i had.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

^The random misfire code that goes with a 6 bolt swap isn't going to change with new plugs, wires, coils, etc.

The engine position signal to the ECU is now inverted. When you cruise at steady throttle over 60mph the ECU will do a misfire check. That's when it throws the code. This will never go away, you need DSM link or one of the ghetto hack "fixes". I just disconnected the TPS. If the ECU doesn't know the throttle position, it won't check for misfires. The car has been running this way for 3 years with no drivability issues.

 

[Eclipsezeke]

ok i searched this forum and seen alot of stuff related to the problem i had but couldnt make really much of it out.
i just got this 95 eclipse gsx with 56k miles on it. a grandpa owned it so i know it wasnt abused cuase he drives his new devil hella slow. but when driving my car it idles perfect but when i give it little gas as if i was driving regualr to just get a little speed itll spudder/studder but if i release the gas it stops or if i give it alot of gas itll stop what u think this could be.
remember i just got this car it has some aftermarket wires havent checked anything yet but just wondering what should my 1st stpe be. thanks

 

[nubiebubie_gsx]

Ohh Mybeatgsx yah i was reading on the inverted signal from the CAS on the magnus version of the 6 bolt swap and it said that i didn't need to have to correct that if your using the 97-99 ecu. I have a 98 but the missfire wont happen if i reset the battery, but will come back 1-2 days later. Also i was reading another post on here from vr2uner that you should not have the knock sensor installed on a 6 bolt swap. Is this true.

 

[nubiebubie_gsx]

So.. according to what u say about the inverted signal to the ecu. What if i take that inverted signal build a little simple circuit and invert that signal to restore it back to the non-inverted siganal.. it should be good..