Post your sputter, mis-fire, buck, stutter, etc...

[dsm nuff said]

I bought my car in June of this year and it drove great until September when it began stuttering at idle, when I first turned it on. Sitting in the car I can feel the whole thing shake a little, not scarily though. I got new spark plugs, the wires are fine, I even bought and returned a new coil pack because that wasn't the issue. Then I went to a shop and they diagnosed that my fourth cylinder wasn't firing at all, so that's when I had my fuel injectors and fuel rail cleaned out. Car ran great until early November, the same cylinder wasn't firing. I had switched around the injectors so I knew it wasn't the same injector, they were ALL corroded on the inside. So I bought new injectors, and my car ran fine again.

Today, though, the same thing happened AGAIN! I have been trying to buy a new fuel rail since late November because my mechanic showed me the inside of it and it is corroded as well, so what I think is happening is gunk from inside the fuel rail is clogging up the injectors. But then that makes me think the rest of my fuel system, especially the lines, is gunked up too, and it's just a vicious cycle. But I don't know how it could have gotten so bad. I DO have a newer fuel filter that I'm going to replace anyway, but I want to get to the root of the problem. I'd rather pay to redo the whole fuel system (lines, pump, filters, everything!) than keep trying to treat the same problem with ineffective methods.

I have looked for info on this issue but no one has described exactly it. So what do you guys think?

Run a couple bottles of Lucas Fuel System Cleaner through it. That stuff works wonders you would be suprised.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

I got my car back together a few days ago. The first day it ran but pretty crappy. I figured it was probably blowing all the crap out from sitting since 2009 so I didn't really pay attention to the smoking. Fast forward 2 days later and it barely starts, it only fires on one cylinder which jars the whole car with the engine shaking so bad. I thought it had skipped time. I pulled the plugs and they were all black. I have gone back through every hose and tightened or replaced clamps so if I have a vac leak I am pretty confident it is very minor.I haven't boost leak tested since I can't even get into boost anyway. Could I have mistakenly put the CAS on wrong or something? The only other solution I've seen to extreme rich problems were either an o2 sensor or ECU related. My car doesn't throw a check engine light either which I assume even on OBD1 cars it would.
Please if you have any suggestions pm me or reply here, I've never seen a car do this before.

 

[95z90tsi]

My friend and I got my 1990 Talon Tsi back together a few weeks ago and when the maf is plugged in it smokes and hesitates like crazy. So my friend figured it was the maf cause when it is unplugged it runs mint and doesnt smoke or anything so i got two more maf's and still had the same problem both times, anybody have any ideas? i really want to drive my talon it has been sitting around 6 years before i bought it. If anybody could help me id really appreciate it

 

[92TSI08YZFR6]

I have a 92 Eagle talon TSI awd and my car is surging at idle from 800-2000 but thats not my biggest problem it lost power while driving i watched lights and everything die so i figured alternator but that wasnt my problem i then switched out batterys and only solved it temporarily so now im to the point where i have to jump start the car and itll idle for 5-10 minutes and then cut out and have no power what so ever?? any sugestions i smell gas pretty strongly but just changed the spark plugs and wires any help would be great..??

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Is it dying while hooked up to another car? Can you get it to start again? I'm still suspecting your alternator.

 

[2point3Tsi]

last night my car had a random miss and wouldn't fix even if I pulled over and power cycled it, over an hour later after I got it towed home I then started it up to pull it in from the street same thing, idles at 400 rpm misses and runs like two cylinders, way worse than a fouled plug or anything.

heres the test specs

scale 200 spec range .70-.86 per 95 talon service manual

primary 2-3 : 0.4-1.8 ( while hot, followed by retest less then 5 mins later )
primary 1-3 : 1.1-2.6 ( while hot, followed by retest less then 5 mins later )

sale 20k spec range 11.3k-15.3k

secondary's 1-4 : .67
secondary's 2-3 : .05 (???) coil contact for cylinder 2 is heavily corroded and sometimes the resistance increases in a linear fashion until it maxes out the scale. still confused about the low resistance i can get if i measure on the sides where I've scraped it with the probe. strangest part is the car runs fine this morning I let it get hot and even unplugged the fan for a bit and I couldn't get the problem to repeat.

 

[ToxicFlesh]

95 gst, idles above 1rpm, if i gas it while driving then let off it want to die unless i tap the throttle again. It also runs just fine until i give it WOT then it bogs or backfires at 3rpms and higher until i let off the throttle. If i run it at half throttle even when boosting the car pulls hard with no bogging or back firing.
I have another throttle body im going to try out just to knock the long list of possibilities down.
I listed my fuel pump and i have a question, are they supposed to have a hum sound or is it like a stock fuel pump and hum when they are going bad?
-walbra fuel pump
-evo3 16 turbo
-evo3 exhaust manifold
-greddy turbo timer
-greddy exhuast with straight pipe
-inovative air fuel wideband gauge
-blitz boost gauge
-750cc injectors
- injen intake
-exedy stage 1 clutch
- clutch hardened for drags
-esm plug in play link

 

[ToxicFlesh]

Problem Solved today for the most part. Found a boost leak on the elbow connection that is in between the BOV and throttle body. The previous owner used a broken clamp that wouldn't tighten correctly. I replaced that and also replaced the tps. Also cleaned the MAF and throttle body. Adjusted the idle a bit and took it for a test run. To my surprise my rpms hit 6-7 easy with minimal lag. I do not know how to tune these motors, so I will need to have someone else try to dial it in. Over all I am happy that i can merge onto the highway without worrying bout bogging out.

 

[snakeyes711]

My car studders around 8psi on the boost guage. But if I let off the throttle its fine till I put my foot down again and it goes back up to 8psi. Its hard to explain the sound it makes but you can hear the turbo studdering. When it does this it wont accelerate at all. I thought it may be a boost leak but I replaced all the hoses to the side mount intercooler. Still does it. Also my car idles at 3k untill its really really warmed up. Anyone know what causes this?

This is what my car is doing. I did new plugs wires, fuel pump swap still the same. LMK what you did to fix it, and If I find the problem I'll post it here.

 

[TRAUMA]

I just fixed my studder issue on my GS. I brought it to Advance Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic and it said it was my EGR Valve. I popped it off and cleaned it all out.

The area that was causing the problem was.

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And this is the corner that was completely backed up with carbon. There was no air passing through at all.

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My car would bog out at <1000 RPMs and when accelerating hard (4500-6000 RPMs). I used a wire hanger to make a hole straight through, then a pipe cleaner to clean it out after spraying it with Throttle Body Cleaner.

Hope this helped.

 

[SavageMotors92]

I bought a 98 GST recently, ran good when I got it, other than the turbo lines being plumbed wrong..

I washed the "outside" of the car, dried it and waxed it. I ended up taking a drive that night and it ran GREAT!!!

I get in my car the next morning start it to warm it up,

I start to leave and I get to the main road and take off in first.

I get going slow in first gear and let it slowly hit boost, it got up to about 10 psi before it started spitting and sputtering and cutting out. ( Sounds Like A WRX)

The more I look at it and test it for issues the less "boost" it takes to start spitting and sputtering... If that makes sense.

Revs up great with no hesitation in neutral "parked"


I have done a boost leak test and found out my BOV was leaking ( not leaking anymore )

It has an extremely small leak by the intake mani at the adjustment screw... nothing to worry about.

My A/F guage is telling me that it is running lean all the time

Will drive fine without using boost... (may have a little hesitation on take off ) But as long as I dont hit boost it will drive without shaking and what not...


Possibilities :

O2 sensor ( I have 2 used ones )
wastegate?
FPR?
CAS?
HELP ME OUT IM DESPERATE!!

thanks for any and all input.


I have been searching forums for days ( nobody I have seen has the same setup, seems like people have the same problem with the 6 bolt swaps.)

 

[jcorn517]

91tsi awd with an exhaust mod only has a rough idle only after I on it threw a couple gears..I havenno resolution yet I'm in the search tho. Please help me diag this

 

[dc320]

Reviving this thread.

When car is NOT at full operating temp, it bucks and studders when throttle is applied. If i let it idle for 10-15 minutes prior to driving the problem is gone. My first thoughts are boost leak and i am going to be doing a BLT. The more I think about it however the less i think it is a leak, why would a leak cause this at a colder engine temp?

If i drive the car for X amount of time, then turn it off, say to get gas. When i am done pumping gas and turn car on and drive away, studder will be back unless i let idle for about 5-10 minutes, even if the engine is still hot from driving.

NONE of this makes sense to me and any help would be great. Also to add, when the studder/bucking problem is gone the car runs 100%