Post your sputter, mis-fire, buck, stutter, etc...

[izzone913]

got mine. TPS

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Alright so my sputtering/missfire/bucking problem only occurs when I am driving in gear. When I am in park or neutral, the car sounds great when I rev it up a few times. There is no sputter or anything at all. This only happens when I am in gear. I have searched and searched on here and couldn't find anything that sounded similer to my problem.

Also, when I am driving and it starts to sputter, I back off the throttle, get on the throttle again smoothly and slowly, back off the throttle, then back on until eventually the sputter goes away. This is a very odd problem and would like to see if you guys have any input.

 

[brownfinger]

fuel pump?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

What would make you assume a fuel pump?

 

[brownfinger]

I spent a year and $1000s replacing all kinds of crap on my old '93. Nothing ever fixed it. I finally realized that my maxed-out fuel trims, and the fact that the pump was the only thing I hadn't replaced, meant that my pump wasn't delivering adequate volume. Even though it made proper pressure. I was gonna buy a new pump with my next pay-check, but the car got totalled.

My old truck started running like crap one day. It got worse and worse, then one day it could barely chug into a shop to get diagnosed: Fuel pump. I spent hundreds replacing crap on that truck that didn't need to be replaced.

8 months ago, my 92 GS-T started running like crap: chugging, sputtering, no power. Of course, it made it home (barely). I plugged in the data-logger, and all my fuel trims were maxed-out. I looked at the pressure, and it was 15 psi. After waiting a week for my new pump to arrive I pulled the old one. The rubber hose from the pump motor to the bracket had popped-off the nipple inside the tank; the previous owner forgot to tighten the hose-clamp. That car's pump had failed shortly before I bought it, and the PO replaced it. Ran like a top after I fixed it.

Last year I flew to Spokane WA to pick-up my '94 GS. When I did, I was horrified that it ran like crap; stuttering, bucking, etc... I plugged in the logger, and everything was in spec... except all the fuel trims were completely maxed-out. It needs a new pump. It can have the Wally 190 I ordered for the '92. It did make it 2000 miles home on the bum pump. My 93 went for 3 years on it's bum pump.

Last week my 2000 F250 died. It just died, on the scale at the gravel yard, with a loaded trailer. Within 5 minutes the end-loader operator and myself both just arbitrarily decided it was the fuel pump. $160 and a couple of tows later and it's running super with it's new fuel pump.

Get a hold of a datalogger and plug it in. If all your fuel trims are maxed-out, it's the pump. Otherwise, your symptoms could be a bad MAF. Bad MAF acts like bad plug wires: It'll run at very slight throttle, but bog under any kind of load. Also check coolant temp sensor. Just get a datalogger!

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Great info. The talon runs very well at times. For example, it will usually run great when driving for a long period of time. I am buying some new plugs with my next pay check.

Sometimes the car runs great, others it runs like crap. I will check into a new fuel pump like you said as well as the MAF and coolant temp sensor. I will start with plugs. Maybe a fuel filter too. If they dont fix the problem, I will definitely get a new fuel pump.

Thanks again for the awesome info. I apreciate it alot.

 

[brownfinger]

Ya know, a bad o2 sensor can also cause the same thing. I had a 94 Accord that would randomly buck and miss so bad I couldn't drive it. It finally threw a CEL, and it was the o2 sensor. If you just bought a datalogger first, instead of buying parts you don't need, you'll come out ahead.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Where would I be able to find a data logger?

 

[brownfinger]

A datalogger set-up consists of a palm-pilot, the cables to connect to your car and computer, and the software to let the car "talk" to the PDA. You get it from the classifieds or from ebay, seperately or as a set. It's under $100. Get a set-up with the good cable; the kind that has a proper plug to match the OBD port on the car, not the kind with individual spade terminals.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Alright I will do some searching. Thanks.

 

[Wildman95GS-T]

I had a strange thing happen to me today, i drive about 25 miles out in the country to pick up my mother for the day. When we got into the car about 30 min. later, it started but sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders and it died. Started it up again and no problems. Drove into the city shopping around for a while stopping and starting up numerous times with no problem. Drove her back home and did a few things around her house, went to start it up and it did the same thing. Any ideas what could be going on

 

[Cypress_h]

MAS, or a crappy alternator... had that happen to many times with my car

 

[Wildman95GS-T]

Thanks, i have a spare MAS, will swap it out tomorrow.

 

[rocafellafw]

I'm having a problem where ON & OFF boost, at around 6200-6400 RPM it kinda stutters and hiccups. It can't be fuel cut because it will happen if I just FREE-REV it to that point at a stand still. Does this sound like a ignition problem or what ? Plugs wires are pretty new and I just switched to BPR7ES'S because I thought maybe it was time to upgrade from BP6's. I'm pretty sure the MAF is pretty new and/or not being overran.

I got no knock when it happens and the AFR's do not seem to jump to anything abnormal. I'll try to get a video, this problem is rattling my brain !!

 

[roy_robinsonv]

97 talon just got two days ago the kid we got it from said he couldnt get it to run rite we got our hands on it and it was buckin from 3k - thee whole rpm range we leaned it out a lil and regaped the plugs those were all ####erd up and now it runs good.

 

[RyanSaiki]

I have a 96 TSI AWD with a 6 bolt swap. The guy never hooked up the TPS because the car won't run with it plugged it. So whenever im driving down the road at a cruising speed it kind of studders every once in a while.
Also, the car is tuned at 15lbs of boost, in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, once it gets up to 5,000 rpm it cuts out and then pulls hard again. When it cuts out it feels like you hit a wall.
What could be causing this?

 

[Blacke17]

My Adventure To Solving My Backfire Problem...

Here is what is HAPPENING:
- First and Second gear works just fine at full throttle..
- Third, Fourth, and Fifth Gear backfire at approx. 4,000-5,000RPM... anywhere before or after that will pull just fine.

ALSO: i notice that my exhaust leaves black residue onto my back bumper... AND my oil somewhat smells like gas is going into it and i am guessing its from gas not firing properly.

SOLUTIONS I HAVE TRIED:
- Replaced Sparkplugs (NGK)
- Boost Leak Test. (Three leaks found and fixed)
- Replaced One Coil Pack (THAT had solved the backfire issue only for a moment and so maybe all i need to do is replace the other coil pack to completely fix the problem)

PARTS I AM BUYING:
- Oil Filter
- Another Coil Pack.

OTHER INFORMATION:
- (if you need more information let me know i will fill it into this section.)


- i wanted to get this problem fixed so i can run my car on the dyno, and race my brothers Mitsubishi Galant which we had swapped his automatic transmission to a manual and swapped the engine for an Eclipse GTS engine. (He thinks he can beat me, but i want to show him what a true Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T can do.

 

[dsm4lif3]

I used to own a mitubishi mirage it was a little beater for me but towards the end of that car before i sold it it had a huge problem with sputtering and what not. it would not go above 3k unless gradually hit the gas i took it to a garage around here Osceola as some may know. They said they would fix it they said it was an 02 sensor and spark plugs and what not they ended up charging me almost 800 dollars for that 02 sensor and sparkplugs which i coulda done myself obv, I get it back thinking ok its gone as soon as i leave still occureed i gave up and sold the god damn car i couldnt even go upo hills .

 

[Pirrofab]

Have you tried plug wires and using the proper heat range plugs gapped at .27-.28?

My Adventure To Solving My Backfire Problem...

Here is what is HAPPENING:
- First and Second gear works just fine at full throttle..
- Third, Fourth, and Fifth Gear backfire at approx. 4,000-5,000RPM... anywhere before or after that will pull just fine.

ALSO: i notice that my exhaust leaves black residue onto my back bumper... AND my oil somewhat smells like gas is going into it and i am guessing its from gas not firing properly.

SOLUTIONS I HAVE TRIED:
- Replaced Sparkplugs (NGK)
- Boost Leak Test. (Three leaks found and fixed)
- Replaced One Coil Pack (THAT had solved the backfire issue only for a moment and so maybe all i need to do is replace the other coil pack to completely fix the problem)

PARTS I AM BUYING:
- Oil Filter
- Another Coil Pack.

OTHER INFORMATION:
- (if you need more information let me know i will fill it into this section.)


- i wanted to get this problem fixed so i can run my car on the dyno, and race my brothers Mitsubishi Galant which we had swapped his automatic transmission to a manual and swapped the engine for an Eclipse GTS engine. (He thinks he can beat me, but i want to show him what a true Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T can do.

 

[Blacke17]

Have you tried plug wires and using the proper heat range plugs gapped at .27-.28?

yes i just tried that earlier today, still nothing happened.

 

[awd4u]

on cold start up's, my car will idle about 1500 rpm. then it will slowly creep down and then it stalls, and when it gets warmer the car idles like it's cam'd, and then it holds steady rpm when its warmed up. but its anoying have to sit in my car and hit the throtle so it doesnt stall.

 

[Iodes]

I bought my car in June of this year and it drove great until September when it began stuttering at idle, when I first turned it on. Sitting in the car I can feel the whole thing shake a little, not scarily though. I got new spark plugs, the wires are fine, I even bought and returned a new coil pack because that wasn't the issue. Then I went to a shop and they diagnosed that my fourth cylinder wasn't firing at all, so that's when I had my fuel injectors and fuel rail cleaned out. Car ran great until early November, the same cylinder wasn't firing. I had switched around the injectors so I knew it wasn't the same injector, they were ALL corroded on the inside. So I bought new injectors, and my car ran fine again.

Today, though, the same thing happened AGAIN! I have been trying to buy a new fuel rail since late November because my mechanic showed me the inside of it and it is corroded as well, so what I think is happening is gunk from inside the fuel rail is clogging up the injectors. But then that makes me think the rest of my fuel system, especially the lines, is gunked up too, and it's just a vicious cycle. But I don't know how it could have gotten so bad. I DO have a newer fuel filter that I'm going to replace anyway, but I want to get to the root of the problem. I'd rather pay to redo the whole fuel system (lines, pump, filters, everything!) than keep trying to treat the same problem with ineffective methods.

I have looked for info on this issue but no one has described exactly it. So what do you guys think?

 

[fdmryan]

My 91 gsx is doing the same. Did ever fix it.

 

[dsm nuff said]

My car studders around 8psi on the boost guage. But if I let off the throttle its fine till I put my foot down again and it goes back up to 8psi. Its hard to explain the sound it makes but you can hear the turbo studdering. When it does this it wont accelerate at all. I thought it may be a boost leak but I replaced all the hoses to the side mount intercooler. Still does it. Also my car idles at 3k untill its really really warmed up. Anyone know what causes this?

 

[sleepymike]

I've tried all of that. I'm the original owner of a '91 Eagle Talon tsi awd excellent condition w/ 52k miles. Latest thing is bucking while check engine light comes on (most of the time) before and after changing maf sensor. Although it was worse before. Last few trips have been close to flawless. Anticipating problem will come back again just like it did before my mechanic changed maf. The computer was changed about a year ago. I am not 100% certain I'm recalling correctly, but I want to say most of the time the bucking happens preceding or following a clutch pedal engagement. My mechanic has checked all of the obvious. He says the problem is hard to diagnose because the computer has no history and the check engine light needs to be on when diagnosing.