2G P0170 code and temp gauge rising

[Boosted2gdsm]

Hello this is the first time posting on here, so please excuse any "noobish" questions.

I'm having some problems and hoping someone could help out.

I have a 99 eclipse gst convertible, I'm currently having a code p0170 which is bank 1 fuel trim.
Well this code came on after I installed my after market fuel pressure regulator (I'm gussing) because after installing the pressure regulator I noticed that my timing belt had been ripped off half way ( thank god it didn't snap) after I got the timing belt replaced along with belt , and everything that needed to be replaced , I noticed my check engine light came on after 40 miles of driving . Now I changed the upper oxygen sensor but the code still came back on after resetting it.
My vacuum is good. When I'm at boost 15 psi it stays 15 psi , it doesn't creep or loose any boost.

MODS:
:255hp walbro pump , not yet rewired
:20g bastered turbo ( 20g compressor in 16g housing)
:full big front mount intercooler
:3 inch maf with Maft
:450 cc injectors
:after market fuel pressure regulator
:maft is blowthrough not recirc , no filter on turbo.
:boost gauge

I do not have a tunner nor a air to fuel gauge as of now.

Also is it normal for my fuel pressure regulator to drop to like 33 psi after I set the psi to 43 with the vacuum hose off and blocked ?

Thank you

 

[Tigerinstincts]

First of all, your temp gauge rising is most likely due to the fmic blocking airflow to the radiator. I'm guessing it starts to shoot up only after some hard boosting.

Second. Even though youre smart enough to not push your 20g beyond 15psi, it still may be too much for your ECU to compensate even with your stock 450cc injectors. Also the blow through setup isn't helping since you can't compensate for that loss of air without something like ecmlink. Honestly idk how your car runs without some sort of tuner for the maft at all since the signals going to the ECU are different.

Dnt know about fpr dropping to 33psi when you set it to 43psi as I dnt have one but that doesn't sound right.. Anyway try clearing the code and see if the code comes back during normal driving meaning no boost. It'll at least narrow it down so you know it's not due to pushing your injectors to their limit with the 20g. Ultimately you need a tuner but do a BLT as well to confirm you have no intake leaks. Still you're probably right that it's your fpr. You could always try swapping in your stock one and see if the problem goes away.

 

[Boosted2gdsm]

First of all, your temp gauge rising is most likely due to the fmic blocking airflow to the radiator. I'm guessing it starts to shoot up only after some hard boosting.

Second. Even though youre smart enough to not push your 20g beyond 15psi, it still may be too much for your ECU to compensate even with your stock 450cc injectors. Also the blow through setup isn't helping since you can't compensate for that loss of air without something like ecmlink. Honestly idk how your car runs without some sort of tuner for the maft at all since the signals going to the ECU are different.

Dnt know about fpr dropping to 33psi when you set it to 43psi as I dnt have one but that doesn't sound right.. Anyway try clearing the code and see if the code comes back during normal driving meaning no boost. It'll at least narrow it down so you know it's not due to pushing your injectors to their limit with the 20g. Ultimately you need a tuner but do a BLT as well to confirm you have no intake leaks. Still you're probably right that it's your fpr. You could always try swapping in your stock one and see if the problem goes away.

Yes your right on point about the temp gauge going up after hard boosting , could you please explain to me a solution to this problem ? Not really understanding why a blockage could occur from my fmic?how did this happen ? And that happend at a random day. Would you think the p0170 code could also be from a faulty coolant temp sensor ? Or no...
I tried to resetting the code 3 times , drove it without boosting at all and it came back on after 30 mIles to 50 miles of driving like an old man... which is not fun.

But as far as my 15 psi it's solid no leaks . I try to keep it minimum until I get a good tune before I start pushing more psi.

Like I mentioned before this problem occurred after the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator was installed. My car idles fine around 750 to 800 rpm. No problem at driving or hitting boost. Nothing different . It's just this stupid code that bothers the living shit out of me .. the intake manifold has no leaks it's ported and I've tested it before and after install. Honestly like I've mentioned the after market fpr could be my problem . Either that or coolant temp sensor . But before I remove the fpr I wanted to change the coolant temp sensor .
And please explain more about why my gauge goes up after hard boosting and how could I fix

 

[Tigerinstincts]

What happens is the air that normally goes through your radiator first passes through your fmic first instead. Since the fmic is a heat exchanger, the air going through it is now much hotter and guess what? That hotter air now has to cool the coolant in the radiator. Normally the air is at most 100 degrees outside on a summer day and thats fine for the radiator but as soon as you put another fmic in front of it, the air may be as high 150 degrees (honestly not sure if that's accurate but it's significant). Remember turbos compress air and in doing so raises the temp as high 300 degrees depending on turbo efficiency but that heat has to go somewhere and it's transferred to the air passing through it.

Edit: Essentially you need ducting for your radiator to get fresh air to pass through your radiator. Also sealing your fmic to your radiator will help to as sometimes a low pressure area of airflow develops right after the fmic and all the air will dump out the bottom of your car instead of passing through the radiator. Alternatively you can use an air damn right below your radiator so that it "scoops" air from below your car and feeds it directly to the radiator.

Also saw your other post and I think your code is due to fpr being set to low. I was under the impression that 2gs run 43 psi fuel pressure at idle, and as soon as boost comes on, fuel pressure rises 1psi for every 1psi of boost. I bet it's your fpr and the one you linked in your other post doesn't look like a reliable one since most ppl always go with aeromotive fpr because they have problems with aftermarket ones. Honestly you dnt need an aftermarket one until you get bigger injectors but if you put your old fpr back in, you'd have to put your old fuel pump back in as well to avoid your Wally 255 over running your stock fpr. You may be alright however as some ppl run Wallys with no aftermarket fpr but once you start pushing the car, I advise against it.

 

[Boosted2gdsm]

Ok so let me ask you something ,
You know the 2 coolant lines that feed into the turbo ?
Well the one line that feeds up , is now feeding to the down one and the one that feeds down is feeding to the upper one. (A bit confusing ) pretty much reason for this is because the hose and the fittings weren't much of help so I did it another way. Maybe I should swap them back out ?

So is it supposed to be 43 psi at idle ? And rise 1:1 for each psi ? Or is it suppose to be 33 at idle and rise 1:1 ? It's so freaking confusing .... I hate how something simple turns into a big project. ... anyways thanks alot for your feed back and spending time out of your day to reply to my non sense questions.

 

[Mello]

With everything (vacuum lines) hooked up your fuel pressure would be the base pressure (43psi) - your idle vacuum which should be around 10-12 psi. Therefore seeing approx. 33 psi at idle is within expectation. I'd start with checking for injector issues for the P0170 code.

 

[Boosted2gdsm]

There was nothing wrong with my injectors or anything else until I did after market fpr

 

[Mello]

I guess the code in your ECU is wrong.

 

[Boosted2gdsm]

What do you mean ecu code is wrong ? And if so how ?
Thank you for feed back

 

[Boosted2gdsm]

What happens is the air that normally goes through your radiator first passes through your fmic first instead. Since the fmic is a heat exchanger, the air going through it is now much hotter and guess what? That hotter air now has to cool the coolant in the radiator. Normally the air is at most 100 degrees outside on a summer day and thats fine for the radiator but as soon as you put another fmic in front of it, the air may be as high 150 degrees (honestly not sure if that's accurate but it's significant). Remember turbos compress air and in doing so raises the temp as high 300 degrees depending on turbo efficiency but that heat has to go somewhere and it's transferred to the air passing through it.

Edit: Essentially you need ducting for your radiator to get fresh air to pass through your radiator. Also sealing your fmic to your radiator will help to as sometimes a low pressure area of airflow develops right after the fmic and all the air will dump out the bottom of your car instead of passing through the radiator. Alternatively you can use an air damn right below your radiator so that it "scoops" air from below your car and feeds it directly to the radiator.

Also saw your other post and I think your code is due to fpr being set to low. I was under the impression that 2gs run 43 psi fuel pressure at idle, and as soon as boost comes on, fuel pressure rises 1psi for every 1psi of boost. I bet it's your fpr and the one you linked in your other post doesn't look like a reliable one since most ppl always go with aeromotive fpr because they have problems with aftermarket ones. Honestly you dnt need an aftermarket one until you get bigger injectors but if you put your old fpr back in, you'd have to put your old fuel pump back in as well to avoid your Wally 255 over running your stock fpr. You may be alright however as some ppl run Wallys with no aftermarket fpr but once you start pushing the car, I advise against it.

SO I just checked my obd2 and the coolant temp is 220°F sometime goes to 240 when I have boost.

And my intake air temp is at 80 °F G is also after 80 , what's the G stand for ?
Now my 02 sensor one is 0.60 and the other is any where from 0.100 to 800. It moves constantly like crazy numbers ranging from 0.100 to 0.800

Any idea? On what might be wrong ?

 

[oneslowwdsm]

220 is running hot, I would suspect a faulty thermostat or cooling fan not turning on or maybe running low on coolant. You need to recirculate your BOV and run an air filter. I would suspect your code is coming up because you're running pig rich. GET A TUNE or leave it stock. Period.

 

[Boosted2gdsm]

220 is running hot, I would suspect a faulty thermostat or cooling fan not turning on or maybe running low on coolant. You need to recirculate your BOV and run an air filter. I would suspect your code is coming up because you're running pig rich. GET A TUNE or leave it stock. Period.

I changed my thermostat , my fans work correctly.
And I don't think the code is from non circumstances bov. Because before I had stock fpr the car ran great with no codes.
The car still runs good but with the after market adjustable fuel pressure regulator, it threw my code for p0170

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Did you burp the system correctly? I missed that you had a GM maf. You still need a tune.

 

[Boosted2gdsm]

Did you burp the system correctly? I missed that you had a GM maf. You still need a tune.

Did you burp the system correctly? I missed that you had a GM maf. You still need a tune.

Burp ? Please explain ? I did get all bubbles out of it by running the car with coolant cap off and heat on blast after warm temp. Car doesn't over heat or anything . Just gauge goes up 3/4 up when I'm heavy boosting.