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Overheating do to SAFC?????

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RickRoCc

20+ Year Contributor
68
0
Mar 6, 2003
East Los Angeles, California
Lately my cars been overheating(just put antifreeze days ago,fix water pump 2 1/2 months ago) but ever since I installed My SAFC this been happending..I read allot on Tuning a SAFC but I don't have a pocketlogger.Can someone help me out with some settings you might are think are good for my setup(something I can start off with)
these are the setting I have at the moment.
Monitor
RPM, Karman(what should it read when it not in gear????I get 44-46), Correction and Throttle Position
Setting Menu
Hi-thrtl-0%
Lo-thrtl-0%
Th-Point-low 25% and high 75%
NePoint-1k,2k,3k,4k,4.5k,5k,6k7k
Etc Menu
Sensor Type-Karman
Car Select-Cyl. "4" Thr. Arrow points Up
GRPH Scale Cr: 30 %(what settings should the others be??)
Sensor Check-BLUE WIRE MOD
I have stock Injectors,stock fuel pump,stock fpr these are the mods I have at the momont
My AVCR also reads my injectors at 93.5%-96% when its out of gear,its this bad???

Goodies I have on
-Garrett T3/T4
-HKS wategate
-Magnecore 8.5 mm wires
-NGK Spark Plug
-Extreme turbo intake pipe(3')
-Matrix Air filter
-Greddy Cat-back Exhaust
-3' piping down-pipe back
-ported 2G manifold
-ported O2
-Blitz BOV (recirculated)
-Xs engineering Intercooler
-upper and lower piping
-autometer boost gauge
-autometer air/fuel gauge
-Apexi SAFC
-Apexi AVCR(I have it off.boosting from stock wastegate settings.)
-Greddy TT
Thanks in advance
Rick
 
RickRoCc said:
Lately my cars been overheating(just put antifreeze days ago,fix water pump 2 1/2 months ago) but ever since I installed My SAFC this been happending

Setting Menu
Hi-thrtl-0%
Lo-thrtl-0%

You have made no changes to your safc so it will not be the cause of your over heating even if you did its only adding a percentage of fuel which will still not cause the problem.

Likely you have the wrong water/glycol mix in your rad (did you buy pre-mix is it 50/50?). What you should probablly do is check your coolant mix with a tester first. Then if it's rated for very cold temperature, drain out a liter first then replace it with pure water and drive the car for 20 mins or so to mix it up. Then test it again and see how it is.

When you bled your coolatn did you pour it all in then leave the cap off and run the car until the point where the rad fan came on then poured in some more coolant (as it goes down as soon as the fan comes on) then cap it off as soon as you have it full? You could have an air bubble somewhere in the system as well causing it not to circulate.

Also check to make sure your fan is coming on when your at full temp and lastly make sure your rad hose is opening (grab top hose and bottom hose see if they are the same temp as the car heats up, eventually the bottom hose should get really hot quickly as the thermostat opens.

Chances are something there will fix your problem.
 
RickRoCc said:
Monitor
RPM, Karman(what should it read when it not in gear????I get 44-46), Correction and Throttle Position
Karman at idle will vary. But if your car is at operating temp and at idle, it should be between 30-40hz. Any lower and my car would want to die.

RickRoCc said:
Monitor
Sensor Check-BLUE WIRE MOD

UNDO the blue wire mod. It's bad. Get a pocketlogger to lookg at o2 voltages, timing advance, and fuel trims.
Blue Wire Mod Explained
Most voltmeters don't impose any effect on a circuit
because they are in the millions of ohms of resistance
range. If you want to meausure a the voltage of a low
resistance circuit this high resistance voltmeter is
not neccessary, and perhaps that was the design of the
AFC's blue wire mod. I'm not sure what that wire is
supposed to be used for anyway. For the o2 sensor, too
much current flows through the AFC, essentially
putting a load on the o2 sensor itself.
You might see a variation between the pocketlogger and
the afc, but more importantly, you will see a huge
difference if you put a switch on the blue wire. on
Watch the logger, and toggle the switch. Your o2's
will suddenly jump up to where they are supposed to
be. On my 420a NT talon the blue wire dropped the o2's
from .98 to .92 and caused the car to run extremely
rich in closed loop mode (with SAFC zeroed out).

I agree with DSMJim that your overheating is not due to your safc at all. It's a coolant problem or a fan problem, maybe thermostat problem. I don't see a fmic in your list so I take it you don't have one (or getting one soon)? Also does it just overheat at idle, or while driving on the highway?
 
Yup !! I did buy pre-mix is it 50/50 :| I didn't Know it sucked OMG .....I did a bit more research and I get the feeling it has something to do with the Intercooler blocking the air for the radiator...my intercooler blocks off the bumper Air vents....but I'm just guessing here :confused:
the fan does come on when they need too,I'm thinking of rewiring my A\C fan. I'm In LA,CA and its pretty dam hot,maybe a hood vent will do the job???also going to take off the blue wire mod..

What should I do with the SAFC? leave alone or can any one help me out with some numbers I might start off with???


Hey... thanks guys for the heads up....I was hoping it had nothing to do with the SAFC..I thought I wired it wrong or put wrong info on it, something like that...
 
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