2G Overheat Damage?

[roadsalt]

Last week the day before thanksgiving, I overheated my 2g gsx. Long story short I messed up the thermostat gasket o ring and leaked out all the coolant. I was in the middle of a city freeway interchange when the temp gauge was pinned. I got off at the nearest exit and drove 2 blocks to a safe spot where I shut off the car, steam pouring out from under the hood. After it had sat for maybe 2 minutes I pushed it 20 feet or so which revealed burned black oil all over the pavement where the engine had been. Not from one leak either, this looked like multiple large leaks and many drips. Checking the dipstick there was no oil in the pan. I thought I blew it up so I got it towed and waited till yesterday to see what was wrong (holiday weekend). Put new coolant and oil in and it started. No blue smoke however it smells strongly of oil. I parked it over a piece of cardboard and there were a lot of leaks. One small coolant leak, but what worried me the most was blackish gray drips from the firewall side of the engine. It it looked like water but felt oily. This car is my daily, but I'm hesitant to drive it in its current condition, for fear I messed something up really bad. If you have any advice for what I should check (no hoist so I can't pull the engine right now) it would be much appreciated.

 

[gusu]

What you are saying sounds like a blown head gasket.

I'd drain the oil and see if it looks milky. Oil and coolant mixing creates a milky like substance.

I wouldn't drive the car until you know what's wrong with it.

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Even though the video states it. This isn't the correct way, but it is a way and it's cheap/easy. Though it wont be useful on every headgasket failure

 

[gusu]

I have to warn you. DO NOT use his method of resurfacing a block or head. It works great on older low power engines because they don't have anywhere near the same pressures pushing on the gasket. If you use his method, especially on a turbo engine you will most likely blow a gasket. Machining isn't that expensive and it will cost you a lot less than f***ing something up.

 

[roadsalt]

I have to warn you. DO NOT use his method of resurfacing a block or head. It works great on older low power engines because they don't have anywhere near the same pressures pushing on the gasket. If you use his method, especially on a turbo engine you will most likely blow a gasket.

Haha don't worry, I didn't intend to. If I do need to replace it, I'll buy an OEM or Felpro gasket that doesn't need a 100% perfect surface like an MLS. and if it's really bad I'll get it machined.

I looked at the fluid from the firewall side of the block and determined that it was leaked coolant that had mixed with leaked gear oil from the transfer case. However I'm still concerned at the integrity of my seals because of the amount of oil this thing puked out. It clearly leaked out the firewall side because the exhaust pipe is covered in oil splatter (see pictures) the picture of the oil stains on the pavement was taken a full week after the incident, where all the oil originally leaked out. It continued to leak oil onto the flatbed a full hour later. No major leaks now, which seems odd to me. My concern is that whatever leaked may do it again without me knowing until oil starvation destroys my bottom end.

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[gusu]

At this point I would do a compression test and a leak down test. I would also check the oil to see if there is anything metallic. If you ran it with no coolant and oil that long you may have done some damage. If you don't already have it, I VERY HIGHLY recommend the Jay Racing timing belt kit or the kit from Extreme PSI

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=214
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=29690&cat=865&page=1

It makes doing the timing belt go from being a nightmare to being pretty simple.

 

[PlanZero]

Well it's pretty simple and you already know the answer.
Option A: DO NOT DRIVE AS IS, compression test, most likely replace HG, replace all possible oil seals compromised from extreme pressure, hopefully keep existing motor.
Option B: fill her up with oil and coolant, check compression, check for chocolate milk, replace any visibly leaking seals you can get to, and keep your fingers crossed.
It all depends on your situation, i.e. condition of motor prior to this, mechanical ability, availability of another motor, etc.