Over $700 in eprom ecu's, And none of them work in my car.. But will work in others!?

[1993eclipseGS]

Well, My car has a 6bolt swap. I have a complete fuel system here, So I purchased an eprom ecu, Had it socketed and chipped for my injectors. Got the ecu back, And when I plugged the 4 connectors into the ecu, And turn the key to "on" without starting the car, I could touche the main harness wires and the fuel pump would kick on and off depending how I touch the wires.
If I hold them a certain way I was able to get the car started, But the tach needle would go frantic, And jump all over the place but the car revs would not correspond with the needle jumping! Other times, The car was just very very ROUGH idling if started at all. If I touch the wires a certain way, I can here a quick ''woosh'' sort of noise in the engine bay as if it was my cylinders blowing air out when the car did not want to start somtimes, It would do this fast.

So, I then sell that eprom ecu for a ridiculously cheap price, And the buyer tells me it works great in his 2g.

So I throw in the stock ecu, And touch the wires, Nothing and all is well ! The car starts right up and drives normal again!

Ok, So I spend the money on ANOTHER eprom ecu, Have it socketed and chipped.. And now it's doing the same thing with the injector chip, Or just the stock eprom chip too! So, I do not know what is going on with my car, But if ANYONE can help I would REALLY appreciate it. I now have 3 burned chips, On my second eprom ecu, And the price of socketing.


The thing is, I know if I put this in another 2g, The car would start right up just like the one I sold to another member! But, What is wrong with my car that it will not work with an eprom ecu?

I am so disgusted right now I might just sell the car, Or I don't really know what to do with it.

Does ANYONE have ANY idea what is going on with my car?

Please help!





Brief notes: Eprom will not work in the car, And makes things go crazy, Throw stock ecu back in, Car is all well. Sold 1 eprom already, It worked great for the new owner of it.. So it's something with my car, Please help!

Thanks!

 

[napkinthief]

I have not had any direct experience in these cars with the ECU but it sounds like you are having a wire issue or a connector issue. Did you force the connectors out or pull the wires when you took out the ecu the first time?

And for clarification, you had the stock ecu, ran fine, got the first eprom and it wouldn't work right, sold it and it worked on someones 2g, then stock worked again, 2nd eprom did not work and stock wont work anymore?

 

[1993eclipseGS]

-Stock non eprom ecu > worked.

-Bought eprom > woulden't work. Sold it > Worked on his car.

-Put stock non-eprom ecu back in > Worked.

-Bought another eprom > Would not work, Just got it in the mail today, Doing same as last eprom.

-Put the stock non eprom ecu back in the ccar > Works fine!

 

[spyderturbo007]

Did you wiggle the wires when you had the stock ECU in the car? It really sounds like some type of wiring issue.

Oh, and if you want to sell your newest EPROM ECU for a rediculously cheap price, let me know.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Did you wiggle the wires when you had the stock ECU in the car? It really sounds like some type of wiring issue.

Oh, and if you want to sell your newest EPROM ECU for a rediculously cheap price, let me know.

I tried to ''wiggle'' the wires with the stock ecu back in the car, But nothing happened, That's the weird thing. When I do it with the eprom, The fuel pump turns on and off, And things go frantic if the car even does start, Like the rpm needle goes crazy. It is only the one end plug too I think that does it. It is not a loose connection though, That's the thing.. As it does not do this with a stock ecu, Only eproms... The car had a 6bolt swap, And it also looks like there are a few really thick wires spliced into that plug, But i don't understand why it would affect only an eprom ecu?

I would need to sell the eprom for at least $300 with it being new, Socketed, And having a chip. I am losing out already. Either way, I cannot turn this thread into a forsale ad, I have an ad listed in the classifieds, Just incase I can not get it working with my ghetto wired car?

The ecu works fine in every other car, That's what I don't understand! I threw my stock non eprom back in the car, And it works great Throw the eprom in another 2g, And it works great I can't win it seems.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

I can get a full refund on all of this stuff, But does ANYONE have any information or help before I send this all back? I am really going to hate taking the car to a dyno, And paying them to tune it with an safc. I will then also hafto buy another safc, Wire it in and hope that at least works, And find a company that doesn't charge over $200/hr for tuning... I will also hafto downgrade from my brand new 850's, And buy 650's when I never even used the 850's yet.

 

[GVR4592]

If you wiggle the wires and things change with 2 different ecu's then it does seem like a wiring problem. Are you using a 2g eprom?

 

[1993eclipseGS]

When I ''wiggle'' the wires with the eprom, I hear the fuel pump clicking on and off.

If I ''wiggle'' the wires with my stock noneprom ecu, Nothing happends, This is the ecu that works GREAT in my car, With NO problems at all.

ALL the problems are occuring with trying to use the eprom.

Touch the wires, Fuel pump clicks on and off depending how I touch them.
Touch the wires, The car will start sometimes depending how I touch them.
Touch the wires, You can hear ''compression'' ''popping'' when I try to crank the car over and stop, You hear the ''compresson/air pop'' so to speak.
Touch the wires, The car would idle HORRIBLY , Then it will idle great, Then the tach needle goes FRANTIC!!!

This is the second eprom ecu I had tried. I sold the first one, And it worked great in the other guys' 2g, So I do not understand why I cannot use an eprom in my car?

 

[RavenX]

Did you make sure to swap the plug wires on the coil pack? Since your using a 95 ecu you have to set the plug wires on the coil pack 3-2-1-4 from left to right on the coil pack. Also double check your grounds and check those ecu wires. Your not alone on spending money on eeprom ecus. My problem however was that for unknown reasons i was blowing the ISC driver in the ecu board. Fried 2 95 ecu's and the 3rd one was the charm.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Would I need to switch the plug wires even though my car is a 1995. I was going to do this tomorrow anyways. Also, I have a 6bolt swap too. The thing is, The wires are fine with the stock ecu, Just not Eprom ECU'S!!!! That is what I do not understand...

 

[RavenX]

So wait you have a 95gst or a 99gst? Also make sure the eeprom chip is installed the right way.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

I have a 95' gst, The eprom ecu chip is installed properly as keydiver did it themselves!

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Well as strange as it sounds, I tried to bed the ecu prongs alittle bit in the plug that was giving me problems, And as of right now the car started right up.. ? I'm guessing it was a connection problem, Only with the eprom ecu's? I'm going to throw my new afpr in, And 850s and 850 chip and see if the car gives me any problems... I'm just going to tape my harness wires together really tight so no connections have a chance to move...

 

[RavenX]

Good to know you go it working

 

[steve]

Well as strange as it sounds, I tried to bed the ecu prongs alittle bit in the plug that was giving me problems, And as of right now the car started right up.. ? I'm guessing it was a connection problem

From what you were describing it sounded like that was the problem. If you can wiggle the wires to the ECU and have the car act up you have a connection problem. Cleaning and tightening the pins would be the first step.

If the ECU works at all you can rule out the EPROM chip installation. The ECU won't work if it's plugged in backwards.

Steve

 

[1993eclipseGS]

The car really seems like it moves now! I have the boost at 20lbs for now, On pump 93 octane.. I had the fuelpressure at 43psi with the hose off, But I just put it to 39psi with the hose off, Because I thought that's what the 1g 6bolt motor should be at, Correct?

The only problems I am concerned about now is the stutter box..

When I use the stutterbox, The rev's sound like this:

Bah--rah----rah---rah---rah---rahh

Like they are very very slow and quiet??

I always thought they were very fast, Like this:

Bahrahrahrahrahrahrah!

Any ideas?

 

[steve]

I had the fuelpressure at 43psi with the hose off, But I just put it to 39psi with the hose off, Because I thought that's what the 1g 6bolt motor should be at, Correct?

No, it's not what kind of engine but how the ECU is programmed that matters.
So set your base fuel pressure back to 43 psi.

Steve

 

[jott5555]

usually a slow studder box like that is a rich condition i had the same issue..

 

[1993eclipseGS]

How did you fix this problem? It is only the stutter box that seems to be giving me the problems. To lean the car out at idle, I am guessing I would need an safc or maft, And also a logger, Huh?
I threw in my 272's, I'm not sure if I have a boost leak, But i'm getting 9-10hg vac at 1000rpms idle, And only like 5hg at 750-850idle...

 

[jott5555]

ya you definetly have a boost leak.. i dont have 272's but ive got crower stage III's and im at -15 at idle, that also may contribute to your studder box issue because your looseing air so your computer is dumping tooo much fuel in.. also like the guy said above make sure all your pins on your harness's are nice and tight it really sounds like one may be loose the other think i was going to mention is pull your ecu apart remove the board and make sure none of the pin's they soldered in are touching or shorting out..

here is a link on how to do a boost leak test..
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

 

[1993eclipseGS]

The only problem i'm seeing with the car as of now is the low vac readings and the very slow stutterbox. I will try to make a boost leak tester and perform a boost leak test. I guess I can just buy a 3" coupler and do this procedure off of my turbo, Correct? I only had tried to perform one previous leak test on a dsm 4 dsm's ago, But it would not hold ANY air for some reason..

 

[Dream On]

I like how you always talk about you've had so many DSM's, but have only done a boost leak test once. Haha. There's a lot of places you could be losing air, it should make the car run much better once they're all fixed. I'm in the process of fixing my own right now. It kinda sucks.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

You're right, I had 8 dsm's already, Which were all modded. I always use t-bolt clamps on all of my couplers, And make sure everything is new, Or in good condition that would not cause a leak.Although like you stated, There are alot more places that good be leaking air, Other then just the piping, Such as the t/b shaf sealts/ The im gaskets, vac lines, injector seals etc.. I always buy all new stuff so I do not run the risk of having any air leaks, Although obviously problems will always still arise.

 

[jott5555]

even with new stuff issue's can arise, air will always find a way to leak.. i beleive at 15deg BTDC i think all the valve's are closed also make sure to remove you mbc as they leak a lot of air..

 

[Gators453]

did you check the ground wires? a friend of mine was having problem similar, he installed it into my car and it worked fine, put it back into his and it wouldn't. come to find out one of the wires was grouding itself on his strut bar.