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Liger

15+ Year Contributor
121
1
Mar 14, 2004
Auburn, California
Well i was bored recently and i am rather short of money right now and i want to hear my BOV as i drive around but dont want to have the idle problems and such so i decided to think of a solution to this. I came up with an idea of making a pressure valve after the bov attached to the dump tube. Basically, it stays closed during idle and normal driving, but once u do a hard pull or heavy turbo use it will open with the car's bov. I like it due to the fact that it doesn't open under normal turbo use but only until heavy use and even then it doesn't let all the air out so it does run a little rich but not that much at all. I will have some pictures uploaded soon of it. But in the meantime what's your peoples takes on this? Stupid or innovative?
Thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]
 
Heh, yeah that's true but i'm just looking for opinions on the idea/design of it. It's 6 bucks vs 200 :p
 
sounds ok but i wanna see some pics....

does the car bogs or stall at higher rpms? or eve hesitates???
 
If you want to do that, you can just do it using a check valve; air goes out the BOV< but air can't go in.

It will solve the problem of idling and cruise, but it will do nothing for leakage at part throttle and low/medium boost.
 
The car does not bog at all with it installed and no hesitation either. At idle there is no such problems and the valve only opens at medium to heavy boost release. Tomorrow, Thursday, I will post some pictures of it. Keep in mind though it looks like a pos right now since i recently had to put guides on the valve seal so it would seal completely after each use. I know i wont be as fast compared to using the stock setup but this does not loose that much power from what i've experienced. It boosts great and when shifting under heavy boost there really isn't much richness that i can tell of because since the valve isn't large enough and the fact that the air doesn't have to go one way, it can move towards the intake, not all of the air is vented, only enough to keep it open and for you to hear the pssshh sound. Thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]
 
Back before my MAFT, I made my own tube from the BOV. I had the bottom half a solid rubber tube, and the top half was air filter material. That way there would be some venting and some recirculating. The car would run fine as long as MOST of the air made it back into the intake tube. I logged a few runs before and after and there were no differences in timing, o2, gas mileage, nothing. It probably looked ghetto as hell, but it sounded sooo much better. Can't beat full vent though, but it was close.
 
Liger said:
Well i was bored recently and i am rather short of money right now and i want to hear my BOV as i drive around but dont want to have the idle problems and such so i decided to think of a solution to this. I came up with an idea of making a pressure valve after the bov attached to the dump tube. Basically, it stays closed during idle and normal driving, but once u do a hard pull or heavy turbo use it will open with the car's bov. I like it due to the fact that it doesn't open under normal turbo use but only until heavy use and even then it doesn't let all the air out so it does run a little rich but not that much at all. I will have some pictures uploaded soon of it. But in the meantime what's your peoples takes on this? Stupid or innovative?
Thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]

Stupid. if its not opening when it should the shock waves you are creating equal turbo ownage. Secondly, it doesn't help with high throttle stalling, and if it does, your turbos getting owned quickly. Thirdly, you should just crush your bov and it will idle fine and still work as a bov.
 
liger said:
I came up with an idea of making a pressure valve after the bov attached to the dump tube. Basically, it stays closed during idle and normal driving, but once u do a hard pull or heavy turbo use it will open with the car's bov. I like it due to the fact that it doesn't open under normal turbo use but only until heavy use and even then it doesn't let all the air out so it does run a little rich but not that much at all.

So it's a BOV for your BOV? Definitely need that picture to explain it.
 
Here are some pictures of the valve. Please keep in mind it looks like a pos so dont downplay this mod and say it's crap just because of how it looks, this is merely a test piece to see if it all works, soon i will weld metal piping and make it look nicer. http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=28860

Its Stock Officer...I dont know what you are saying here, the stock BOV works perfectly normal and even if this pressure valve i put on doesn't open at all it just makes the air circulate normally. The spring pressure on the pressure valve is stong enough to stay closed under low boost release and such but will open under heavy boost like i've said twice before ;) Ooh, and keep in mind, this is mod is not correcting anything on the car, nothing is wrong with my car, it is merely giving you the ability to vent with less problems:)
 
seriously .. why don't you guys with 1g valves just crush them ... recirculate them ... and leave them alone. Who cares how loud it is??

ya cause 1Gs dont sound as sexy as my RFL anyways.
 
thats a pretty cool idea. can you tell us what we would need to do this and where to get the parts? can you also post some sound clips? thanks.
 
ure car doesn't have any idlling probs at all?

One main reason why ppl have trouble venting is because they do it wrong, u need to adjust it not just slap it on and complain when u have bad idle and u bog. U put it on and see how everything goes (not in just a 2 minute drive either) u put it on and keep it that way for a few days, when i put my fresh out of the box RFL on my car it ran perfect for a few days, then after that few days it started bogging a lot, my idle was pulsing and going really low. Also test ur BOV on different pressures, dont always hit full boost and drop the throttle and test it that way, get like 3 pounds and then drop the throttle, at about 3 it should open up, any higher and compressor surge might come in to play, any lower and it will leak a little at idle and not run as well. See how it does with other pressures as well, just keep doing different numbers when ur driving.

In my case i had to add 1 washer and now it holds tight at idle and opens up at about 2-3 psi. Adjustment of my idle screw was necessary too, i dunno why but after i had everything done my idle was a little higher so i turned it down. (maybe because 1g bov leaks at idle if its not crushed or modded) thats why so many ppl have problems with it vented.
 
I will make a list of parts for you guys if you want it. I will also try and get some sound clips either tomorrow or the next day. The process on making the pressure valve is kinda tricky just as a forewarning. If you would like, i can make you guys them and send them out to you, but whatever. I will get you intructions and a part list regardless. Brandon [VFRacing]
 
For years I ran a vented 1g using plumbing store parts. Using a modified version of the gus mod to put some control on it, it ran quite well. I also ran pretty well with the RFL, but I couldnt take all the leaks at the Oring joints. After 2-3 years I decided that I would rather just have the car run "right," and setup the MAFt in blow through. I'll never go back :D But for people that are willing to deal with the issues, however slight they may be, go for it. I think recirculating that valve under low boost situations should work well and was a great idea, since thats when I had most of the little issues I Saw, part throttle venting. Good luck with it :thumb:
 
Well on monday i'll get you guys those sound clips since i spent most of today changing the fuel filter :thumbdown and then painting the calipers. It runs soo much better now but anyways, i'll get the sound clips tomorrow and i'll do my best to make a parts list. -Brandon [VFRacing]
 
OK, i got some sounds clips of the pressure valve. Just pm me for them and i'll email them to you. The list of parts needed is this: 1" PVC "T", 1" PVC pipe about 2.5 inches long, 90 degree PVC bend with threaded end (this allows you to fit it inside the BOV), 2 2" long machine bolts with nuts, 1 3" long machine bolt with 4 corrisponding nuts, large rubber gasket that will fit around the bolt with minimal space in the center, large metal washer to back this providing stiffness, medium sized washer to put infront of the gasket to provide stiffness, a spring to fit around the bolt (shouldn't be too strong otherwise the pressure valve wont open but needs to be strong enough to keep it closed at idle, 3 split washers, another small-medium washer that the spring can be backed against.

To make this crazy piece of plastic something you need to drive two holes in about the same spot as in the pictures. This is where you put the two 2" long bolts and the longer bolt will run through these. Next assemble the gasket end so that it looks like mine, nut split washer large washer rubber gasket medium washer split washer nut. Then towards the other end of the bolt put the smaller washer on and then the spring and finally a nut split washer then nut to hold the spring in place. Now insert the whole assmebly into the PVC "T" and then insert the two bolts so that the washer against the spring is on the left side next to the spring. Now just put the other nuts on and the rest is rather self explainatory. To seal it in the BOV i just used some special sealing tape. I wrapped it around 4 times and then worked it inside the BOV and it holds just fine and i twisted the Dump tube so that i will allow the placement of the pressure valve, you can also just use the normal hose clamp but be careful because if the hose clamp is not put on right the pressure valve will eventually fall out since there is no lip to hold the hose on better.

If you have any questions about all this just pm me and i'll try and make the instructions better :p Best of luck to you all :thumb: -Brandon [VFRacing]
 
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