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okay not to use stock BCS?

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
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May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
the engine doesn't seem to idle any different with the stock boost control solenoid attached to that smallest hole in the turbo intake pipe compared to it not being connected, was wondering why? have yet to put a load to this build but have been wondering about the stok bcs since I found out what it was.

right now my acculator hose runs to the lower intercooler pipe thats passed the j-pipe.

that smallest hole on the intakes open, should I temporary tape it or just get it.covered?

should I atleast get a manual bcs before I try to drive? I was waiting on just saving up for an electric bcs, there best from what I can tell.
 
the engine doesn't seem to idle any different with the stock boost control solenoid attached to that smallest hole in the turbo intake pipe compared to it not being connected, was wondering why? have yet to put a load to this build but have been wondering about the stok bcs since I found out what it was.

right now my acculator hose runs to the lower intercooler pipe thats passed the j-pipe.

that smallest hole on the intakes open, should I temporary tape it or just get it.covered?

should I atleast get a manual bcs before I try to drive? I was waiting on just saving up for an electric bcs, there best from what I can tell.

It will be fine for you as long as its hooked up properly. You can also run the line from the lower IP to the wastegate to run off WG pressure. You'll also want to seal up ANY holes in your intake track. Boost leaks are bad.
 
The BCS is like a boost controller except you cannot adjust it. The only thing it does is control your boost, NOTHING ELSE.

So buy a manual boost controller, hook it up (it replaces the BCS).

You can leave the BCS without any vacuum lines going to it but leave the electrical plug at the bottom plugged in so that the ECU still detects it otherwise you will get a check engine light.



Hope that helps
 
Yeah for ~50 bucks you cant go wrong with a hallman. all a boost controller does (and all the bcs does for that matter) is open at a specific vacuum pressure to actuate the wastegate arm. With a bcs its controlled by the ECU, with a MBC this is set by the spring rate/preload on the spring, adjusted by you. With aftermarket solenoids and link v3 that can be done all in the ecu too.
 
so is it better to have it on the acculator or the wastegate as far as not using the bcs? I think.o might actually have it on the wastegate, I might be getting something mixed up. or wasn't iy called the wastegate acculator?
where do you connect the mbc?
 
The manual boost controller hooks up in the same way the solenoid does. You replace it basically. If you were to stick vacuum straight on the wastegate, i think it'd open at like 8psi or something on a stock actuator? You would want to use the solenoid rather than putting the hose straight on the actuator, it'd open way sooner than with the controller.
 
Look up a NXS boost controller, $15 bucks if you mention your a DSM'er. I got one, works flawlessly. Stock wastgate actuator pressure is 8-9 psi, 11.7 with the BCS hooked up properly, I believe.
 
Look up a NXS boost controller, $15 bucks if you mention your a DSM'er. I got one, works flawlessly. Stock wastgate actuator pressure is 8-9 psi, 11.7 with the BCS hooked up properly, I believe.

Mine runs 16 with the restrictor removed from the solenoid, no idea what it runs with it. I didnt have a boost gauge back then. I'm sure someone can chime in with what it's supposed to be, i believe i read 14 is stock on a 2g.
 
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