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Oil return line leaking, used copper spray, what next? Another gasket with sealant?

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95EclipseGST

20+ Year Contributor
406
1
Mar 1, 2002
Kansas City, Missouri
I just installed everything in this engine nicely, only to get my oil return pipe leaking at the bottom side. I used copper spray. I just bought 2 more OEM gaskets for it, so what should i try next? Get the OEM one and coat it with "high temp" red RTV or Ultra Grey RTV, Which one would you try next. It mating up to a brand new oil pan. Maybe i overtightened. What is the torque value to tighten the oil return line? So what would you try next to stop this leak? I thought about putting thread sealant on the threads and then high temp rtv both sides of this new oem gasket. Then try RTV grey or something the 3rd time if that didnt work. What are some tricks to get this to stop leaking? Thanks
 
I have this same problem.It's annoying I have tried all of what you were saying and none of them has worked so far.I am getting tired of not parking in my driveway because it oils the blacktop.I am kinda thinking that I have a dent in my pan or something?Good luck,If you figure out something that works good for you let me know and I will try that too.I'm desprate.
 
I used the high temp. and havent had a problem. You want to put some on the threads of the bolts the holes are thru holes and have been known to leak past the threads.Do you have the washers on the bolts. The reason I used high temp. is the oil coming out of the turbo is preety hot.Also check your return tube for cracks at the accordian.
 
I have had good luck with the RTV Ultra Black. You just need to make sure you put a nice even coat on both sides of the gasket. For the bolts I use a Permatex Thread Sealer, it's white liquid in a tube (not loctite), and it works great for keeping oil from seeping past the threads since as noted above, the holes go all the way through to the pan. For extra precaution, you can also run a bead around the flange after bolting it on, then smear around the edge with your finger.

Mine doesn't leak at all after doing all of the above.
 
Replace the washers with the proper ones from the dealer. They are not regular washers they are crush washers. I had the same problem until I replaced those stupid washer. No more leak.
 
The best method I have found is to clean both surfaces and apply a little Permatex "The Right Stuff" to the oil pan side as well as the gasket on both sides. Don't use a thread sealer on the bolts. You don't want that getting into the oil system. Then allow them to dry an hour or so and refill the engine with oil.
 
As mentioned, you need to use crush washers with the bolts. Try checking your local hardware store for either 6mm or 1/4" copper crush washers.

I don't use any type of RTV or spray on the gasket and I've never had a problem with leaks. I don't know if it matters at all (probably not) but I install the gasket so that the white embossed ring faces towards the return line flange.
 
I used this kit and with the crappy stock style gaskets I used "permatex right stuff" gasket maker, coat the gasket in it and it will seal any imperfections much better than just the gasket itself. It's the most badass solution to the oil return line you will find.


Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: Mitsubishi :: DSM :: Do It Yourself Parts :: Misc. :: SBR Turbo Oil Return Line Kit (Pushlock Style)

BTW, +1, dont ever use thread locker. And be sure to let the "right stuff' gasket maker set up, I'd give it at least an hour as well. Make sure the surfaces are SPOTLESS or it won't work right.
 
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