420A Oil cooler question.

[realhp=turbo]

Im working on a friends 2g 420a turbo. He had a severe overheating problem before, and now he wants add the oil cooler that he picked up from his buddy. His car is very very nice. Im thinking about where to put it and it occured to me to put between the oil filter housing and the turbo. (The feed line. Not literally between them.) Like run the oil feed from the filter through the front mounted oil cooler then back to the turbo. Is there any problem with doing this this way, or is there another way?
His mods are;
Star turbo kit
turbonetics t3 t4
tail wastegate
tail blow off
hard ic piping
3"x10"x30" IC
motor is built with eagle H beam rods
Clevite bearings
wiseco pistons
ect. ect. ect.
Built to the nines!

mike

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Um... just one problem; most of us don't run our turbo's oil feed lines from the oil filter... we run them from the oil pressure sender. I think the best solution would be to leave the turbo's oil feed line alone.

Buy a sandwich adapter to go between the oil filter and the filter housing (available at Jegs.com). The adapter has an "in" port and an "out" port for you to route oil lines for the oil cooler. Then just mount the cooler where you want it and connect everything with SS braided or rubber hose.

Your friend may need to begin using shorty oil filters to prevent damage to them should his car bottom out.

 

[92awddsm]

His problem isnt oil temp, its water temp. He should find a more efficient way to duct air through the radiator. Adding an oil cooler will have little or no affect on the coolant temps. this is pretty common with larger fmic's due to them blocking air flow through the radiator.

 

[BigRand]

agreed, WA gets kind of cold sometimes to be running an oil cooler, he's going to have to block it off.

What he needs to do is replace the thermostat (consider buying a 180 or 160 degree from howell), replace the radiator cap. Wire up the AC fan (if he has one) so that it comes on with the regular fan. Check all the hoses (especially the one that runs over the exhaust manifold, when it leaks there it turns into steem instantly and you will hardly notice except for some white spots.)

He might also try Redline water wetter as it seems to work well for me.

 

[realhp=turbo]

Thank you for the responses. First, the oil filter that I was refering to is the sandwich kit that you stated. Second the car does have an aluminium radiator. And third I was just wondering if that was a good spot, in relation to oil pressure, for the rest of the motor. Belive me, I know all about the weather in this area. I work in it everyday. I told the young man that he didnt really need it. Not because of the cool temps around here. But more because of the fact that after the first gens, they didnt put oil coolers on Eclipses anymore (overkill). Especially since he has this nice fluidine aluminum radiator. But he insisted that he wanted the damn thing. Twist to the story tho... Take the block to machine shop because of some rod knock and turns out the machine shop says the short block is toast. I have a hard time beliving that. So now hes looking for a good, turbo ready, 420a shortblock. Any ideas?
Mike

 

[BigRand]

What machine shop did you go too....the only turbo ready 420a block is one built my a machine shop......I had buds machine shop in lakewood build mine
253-555-BUDS, real easy to remember.

It shouldn't be that hard to find a spare useable 420a block

 

[realhp=turbo]

He took it to the cheapest machine shop he could find. Which was Car Quest up in Everett. I was leary and I guess they have an in-house machine shop. I used to work as a block inspector for Motor Works in Spokane, so naturally, I think these guys are wrong. All we needed them to do was pull the crank out of the block and maybe do some light line hone to the rods. Then mike everything for new bearings. I think I'll collect all the parts from them and call your shop for a 2nd opinion. Thanks.
Mike

 

[realhp=turbo]

Ok, so I went down to the machine shop and had a looksy at the meat of the matter. The rods need a line hone but he says he cant get the dowels out of them to cut them down. Also he says that the piston skirts have 8 thousanths of an inch of play. Is that a problem or normal for a turbo motor? He said that the crank spun all but one bearing and that the crank is probably toast. There was no crank walk and the cylinders have no lip. He said he could probably turn the crank 20 over and it would be fine, if a girl were to drive it, and not hit any high R's. Does it sound like a work-able endevor? Or would it be better to obtain a different block/crank and have the rods and pistons reworked. Id hate to throw away such high dollar parts that dont even have 20,000 miles on them. Apparently this shop handles mostly domestic V-8's.
mike

Oh yeah and that shop number is disconnected. when was the last time you were in there?

Correction, the phone number you posted was incorrect. the real number is 253.588.2837 . Thank you

 

[BigRand]

Umm...well my friend just got his audi s4 motor out of their a couple of weeks ago...I sent him over, but I haven't been there myself for a while....I wonder why he changed the number....

If I were you I would at least take a look around for a new block, I picked up a whole spare motor for only $100, you'd be surprised what you can find if you just take a little time to look, then you won't have to worry about the girl or her boyfriend hitting any high rpm's and coming back with complaints.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Cheap machine shops are a bad idea. In most cases, you'd need to ask around and find someone with a good reputation - in your case, Randy has already done that, so now you know who does good work in your area.

If all the bearings are spun, I'd trash the crank and block altogether. Line boring can be expensive, and it's really not worth it given the cost of good working stock blocks and cranks. You especially don't want to put high-end internals on a re-worked crank... that's just asking for more trouble.

The piston-to-wall clearance sounds fine...

Crankwalk is rare in anything other than 4G63s...

The dowels in aftermarket rods aren't removable...

 

[vbeclipseracer]

I agree on the whole cheap machine shop; bad idea thing. I didn't do the asking around thing and got clamp marks on the top of my block that i had to file down. There is also sleaving that is available for block that gets the bore perfect.

 

[vbeclipseracer]

I ran my oil cooler off of the oil return line to my fender oil cooler then to the oil pan.

 

[Blitzeclips]

Dude, look at the dates on the thread. If you are trying to bump your post count thread revival is not cool.

And why in the hell would you run your oil cooler from the return line? That's gravity fed, so there wouldn't be any pressure to circulate the oil through your cooler.

 

[BigRand]

yeah your gonna want to switch that to the feed side,

 

[realhp=turbo]

Btw, Blitzeclipse, I havent been in here to bump this thread in hella so u can simmer down. This guy had a newbie question that obviously got answered by someone who knew. Ive actually abandoned the original idea of an ext. oil cooler for this application. I agree Bigrand is right you want to run your oil cooler off of the feed line.

 

[Blitzeclips]

Simmer down? Who's fired up? It's a bad idea. Anyone reading this in the future should know that.