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OEM flywheel or ClutchMasters lightwt FW? 2G FWD

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SeaveeDSM

Supporting VIP
238
37
Dec 22, 2008
Miami, Florida
I am about to replace my dead clutch. Here is the first thread on this where I am trying to decide on a ClutchMasters FX300 or FX400. I am now almost certain that I'll be going with the 6-puck FX400.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ied-help-me-pick-my-new-clutch-2-choices.html

This new post is because I'm now re-considering my original plan to get a new OEM flywheel and new OEM ring gear but as an alternative get ClutchMasters' lightweight flywheel.....

Oh, the $$ COST differential is basically immaterial between these two choices for me:

My original plan here was a new OEM flywheel and ring gear since this will be the 4th clutch job on my original OEM FW and I would rather have the peace of mind of a brand new OEM flywheel and ring gear. The cost on that in parts is gonna be about $402 including Florida sales tax. Then I'll probably be charged something extra from the shop to have the new ring gear mounted. (BTW - exactly HOW is a ring gear mounted to the FW? Does it then have to be balanced and/or machined after the ring gear is installed??). I'm guessing total cost for the OEM FW, ring gear and installation of the ring gear is gonna be about $450.

Then I looked at ClutchMasters website and saw they have billet aluminum FW - including OEM ringgear already installed - within about $20 of the above new OEM scenario. CM's FW is about 50% lighter than my OEM FW. The Cutchmasters flywheel appears to be very high quality and among other things:

CM uses only 6061-T6 aircraft grade or better billet aluminum in the manufacturer of its flywheels.
CM uses High Carbon steel for the friction surface. (Replaceable)
CM uses an OEM steel ring gear secured by bolts.
CM offers a limited lifetime warranty.
CM Billet Aluminum Flywheels meet SFI Spec 1.1 or 1.2

Reference file photo - not necessarily the exact CM FW in question:
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Oh, I've searched and read a number of posts here and elsewhere on the pros/cons of lighter vs OEM flywheel and I'm still not clear as there are almost an equal amount of opposing views and pros/cons....

For instance, from RRE's website about their lightweight flywheels:

" Lots of people freak out about any "theoretical" negative drivability issues with lightened flywheels. They are wrong, it's all good. They are not too light for street use, they won't break apart, they are stepped correctly for ACT and CFDF clutches, On a 80 hp honda you could go too light, but not on anything with enough power to pull the skin off pudding. You will have to compensate a little in your launching technique, a little higher launch rpm will be necessary. Your shifts will be better with the engine rpm now better matching the next gear. These are SFI certified. "

So in summary, which route do I go for - new OEM or CM's lightened FW - CONSIDERING that I am front wheel drive, almost never launch from a dead stop and may never run at a 1/4 mile track (actually I find 40-100MPH +/- speeds of greater relevance for me) and this is my daily driver?
 
The only thing you have to worry about with a lighter flywheel is you may have to apply more revs to get going. I you do any type of racing or spirited driving then I'd say go for it. You'd like the fast that your car revs faster.
 
Since you were on RRE's website, did you see the no brand name flywheel that they have for sale? It's not as light as aluminum flywheels, but much stronger and it can take more abuse. I have used Fidanza flywheels before and they are extremely light and rev happy. The problem is that they are prone to catastrophic failure that can destroy everything under the hood.

I currently use that "No Name" flywheel on RRE's site, and I am very happy with it. There are no driveablility issues at all with it. At your power level, I would combine this flywheel with a ACT 2100 + street disc and you should be good to go. If you think you are going to make more power, then go with the ACT 2600 + street disc.
 
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