no spark from 1-4

[95'RS-T]

1-4 coil not firing! I changed both the CAS and CPS with new sensors,
replaced both coil packs with new ones, Tested PTM with luv2rallys thread on that. also had the ECU repaired by ECMTuning, and I still have no spark on this coil. Not from the plug wire, not from the plug, and not even out of the coil. What the F*ck is going on here?

 

[rlacasse1]

Does power reach the coil pack in the first place?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

^agreed. If you have a break in the actual wiring, it will cause that, especially if you have already replaced the rudimentary coil pack/PTM/ecu.

 

[95'RS-T]

Yes I'm getting 12v on both coil packs

 

[rlacasse1]

I am talking about the wiring harness plug. There should be a constant 12v and there should be 2 pulsing wires. At least that's how it should be.

 

[95'RS-T]

oh yes there is a constant 12v on the top wire(key on). blue with black (coil 2-3)strip is pulsing with the test light, but the blue with red strip (coil 1-4) is not. I did bypass the engine speed detection plug and go straight from the PTM (pin number 8) smaller black/white wire to the coil plug and its still the same problem. I just don't get it.

I don't have any idea why its not pulsing for the 1-4 coil

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Did you remove the engine speed plug? (as in cut it off or mangle it somehow). That plug is actually a closed circuit and either needs to be left in tact or if the plug is removed needs to be soldered back together.

 

[95'RS-T]

no I did not remove the plug. All I did was cut the wire on the coil plug and the PTM and ran a jumper from pin 8 to the coil plug, I also reconnected the wires back to there original places.

 

[95'RS-T]

I just went over the whole wiring harness today and found nothing wrong with it at all.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

did you check the igniter?

 

[95'RS-T]

Yes that was the one of the first things I did

is it possible that the black/white wire coming from the ignition to the coil might not be supplying enough power to both coils? My battery is kinda dead from cranking so it reads 11.89V on the battery and on that ignition wire with the key on of course it only reads 11.61V, inside and outside of the car.

 

[rhodess89]

you need to take a volt ohm meter to it and read its values like touch it to the probes and to the case should be OL if not grounded to the case just some ideas.

 

[95'RS-T]

Well I was just reading through some old emails before i bought the car. The guy i bought it from said it had a after market alarm in it. I'm assuming it was taken out because I cannot locate it. he did leave the wires taped up under the steering column, they are all hooked back up to the right spots, so I'm still confused.

 

[95'RS-T]

ok today I went out and put another coil pack on I had from a 92 laser and car started right up and ran like a champ Thanks to everyone that read this thread and tried to help.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Glad you found the issue. I guess you originally replaced dead coil packs with a couple of other dead coil packs eh?

In case anyone ever searches for a thread like this, something simple as just swapping the wires from one coil pack to another could have easily found the issue.

 

[95'RS-T]

well what really got me is I got NEW coil packs and they didn't work. But the only thing that's wrong now is a vac leak -10hg which makes the car run like ass but all 4 are sparking. I do have a question for you though. I have a narrow band A/F gauge which reads lean at idle. Fuel is stock except my wally 255 which I thought would make it rich?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I wouldn't let a two dollar hooker next to a narrowband o2 Aside from that, your vacuum leak will absolutely affect readings.

 

[95'RS-T]

haha got ya it came with the car I plan on getting dsmlink this summer when I start upgrading the fuel system but thanks again I really appreciate it.