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no firing in cylinders (help please)

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Gary 420A RS

15+ Year Contributor
1,188
9
Jul 7, 2003
Oxnard, Ventura, California
okay i did some research and it was posted once before by.

OLD MITSU TECH
"I "assume" you looked at the 2 wires to confirm no spark? If so, and you have spark on the other two, I would look closely at your CAS to see if it's sending a signal to the dead coil. If you get a signal from one side and not the other then I'd look at the primary side of the ignition system. Possible broken wire. Do a continuity test on your primary wires from the CAS to the coil packs. Unhook both sides to verify continuity. And while you're at it, do a short to ground test on the same wires. One side of ohm meter to ground and the other side to each primary wire."

so i did this and found that i have secondary continuity and not primary. is this due to a cas plugged up wrong?

and by the book there saying to check the the coil pack the primary being 4 & 2 and secondary 4 & 1 if i remember right. also i have a wire that i belive to be the (tach signal) which is broken off. this wire is going to the intake manifold. well that wire is off and broke when i seen it. if anyone knows what wire that is let me know so i can go order it.
 
Wow. Time for a restart.
Each coil has a primary winding and a secondary winding. The Primary is the one working with 12v and the seconday creates the high voltage needed to fire the spark plug when the current in the primary winding is turned off. There is one coil for cylinders 1 & 4 and the other coil is for 2 & 3. You need to measure both the primary resistance and the secondary resistance of both coils.

The CAS doesn't connect directly to the coils, it goes to the ECU and the ECU controls the coils. A bad CAS can cause the car not to spark but it won't cause continuity problems with the coils.

What sort of service manual are you working from?

Steve
 
You need to get a real manual.
Chiltons and Haynes doen't come close to the factory service manual.
The backup manual CD is real useful because it has the manuals for both generations and you can look to see if one book does a better job with diagnosing than another.

The 1G electical manual testing procedure:

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You can see that they have you test the primary resistance for both coils and then in the next step the secondary for both. The 2G manual changed the spec slightly.
Primary resistance is 0.70 to 0.86 ohms
Secondary resistance 11.3k to 15.3k ohms

The biggest issue I have with the CD is that there are no '90 manuals and the '90s are unique and not enough of the 95/96 differences.

Steve
 

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so i am getting the bottom picture of the two. but the top is where i am having problems understanding.
 
How are you getting lost?

Pin 3 is the common power feed to both coils so, unlike checking the secondary windings where you change both meter probes to check the primary, you only need to move one to measure the second coil.

BTW, if you can't take the time to proofread and correct your spelling and punctuation why should I take the time to help you? This is something we are really serious about here. With 600+ posts under your belt you should know this.

Steve
 
okay i think i may have found the problem. would the TPS have anything to do with it not starting? i found that my TPS wire is broken.
 
There are 3 wires for the TPS, +5v, ground, and output (plus the one wire for the IPS). If the ground wire was broken the output of the TPS would remain high regardless of the TPS position making the ECU think that you are holding the throttle all the way open. During cranking that tells the ECU to shutoff the injectors because the car is flooded.

Also check the wires to the Engine Coolant Sensor. If they are broken the ECU thinks the coolant is -25F and usually floods the engine.

Steve
 
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