The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Nitrous System on 420a.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Was not trying to white knight a thread I did not read. I was speaking in general as all my research has been 4g 4g blah blah blah 420a is a weak engine. I just shake my head because its been proven (obviously not an engine with 200k miles) that 420a is a solid engine when done right. There are to many posts over all the forums where the solution is get a different car, and my previous comment stands to what ive seen thus far.

Everyone is concerned about money, I say screw it if someone wants to blow up their engine blow it up, if they want to build it big then build it up. At the end of the day we each build our own but some advice to a question so they know what will happen should be given not hazing. I thought this was the dsm community not the honda forums. Lmao
 
I have run nitrous numerous times on my 420a and it lasted no problem. I ran on a stock bolt on motor a 50 and a 75 shot. Nitrous is a very fun FI and gives a very good bang for buck, but a properly set up nitrous kit is not going to be cheap. I will be cheaper than turbo but not dirt cheap. To take advantage of a good set up you need a bottle heater, wide band or way to see your afr(a dyno with AFR probe), a blow down tube(in the event of a bottles burst valve going off from excessive pressure to vent it out of the car, WOT switch and preferably a window switch(to activate nitrous only during WOT during certain rpm). I ran mine at a 75 shot and "tuned" it (swapped fuel jets out to get a proper/safe afr) on a dyno a saw power around the 170ish whp. You will also need an aftermarket fuel pump to support the strain of the extra fuel needed by the fuel solenoid. I ran that particular set up for several years before taking it off and going turbo. I've run up to a 150 shot as well but it was on a built motor with headstuds. Just because a motor isn't "designed" to have any type of FI doesn't mean it won't do well with it, you just have to use some moderation and not be an idiot with it. The biggest factor you need to consider is has all the upkeep and maintanence been done on your car and is the motor a healthy motor from leak down test and compression test. If the answer is no then you need to take care of those issues first before you try any type of power adder. Thats been the crutch for DSM's of all types for as long as I can remember. People beat the crap out of the car, perform little to no maint. and then bi*** because it broke. Thats not the case, a poor owners choices doesn't mean its a crap car.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top