NGK Plugs BPR7ES vs BPR7ES-11

[mad_trbo]

Can anyone verify that the only difference between the NGK BPR7ES & BPR7ES-11 is the gap?

I have both in hand and one is actually a darker color than the other.

Additionally if you are running an AEM CD ignitio do any of you think it can handle the gap without experiencing blow out?

 

[Awdboost]

Depending on how much boost you are running. I would advice to gap at .30 and you can go bigger if you want..

The 11's are twin prong.. Stock not gapable


The BPR7ES are single and copper.. Buy these.

 

[ken inn]

Depending on how much boost you are running. I would advice to gap at .30 and you can go bigger if you want..

The 11's are twin prong.. Stock not gapable


The BPR7ES are single and copper.. Buy these.

WRONG. where do you come up with this? the difference is, as you said, the gap. the -11 is a 1.1mm gap. you will see many of the ngk plugs with the same -11 after them. if you have an ngk catalog, it will tell you.

 

[igs]

You are suppossed to regap them when you install them anyway, so the -11 doesn't really matter.

 

[ikickuintheball]

You are suppossed to regap them when you install them anyway, so the -11 doesn't really matter.

Yep. When you gap the -11's to our normal specs, you end up with a bit more element on top, but that's fine.

 

[Defiant]

Hey! You're already on the web! LOOK IT UP!!!!

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

 

[Awdboost]

WRONG. where do you come up with this? the difference is, as you said, the gap. the -11 is a 1.1mm gap. you will see many of the ngk plugs with the same -11 after them. if you have an ngk catalog, it will tell you.

My bad.. I was thinking of something else.

 

[mad_trbo]

Appreciate the feed back, all comments confirmed my beliefs.

A simple regapping should provide virtually the same plug as the non - 11's.

Always good to know you have options.

 

[ken inn]

fyi, ngk, like a LOT of manufacturers, will track sales. most plugs will fall into 2 categories, but by far, the larger gap is the most popular. so, when places like pep boys buys spark plugs, they will see that the 1.1mm gap is way more popular than the other gaps, so this is the one they get. it is cheaper and way easier to sell just 1 plug for a lot of applications, also they dont have to stock a lot of sku's. lots of people are too lazy or dumb to check the gap. they just install and go. gaps for single electrode plugs are all over the place. when you get multi electrode plugs, they get way more specific to certain cars, because the gap is now very important. for example, i have been using bosch WR7DTC plugs for years. this is 1 heat range colder than the stock plug, and a triple electrode, gapped .028-.030, and are used on a lot of audi turbos. it is the exact same reach as the factory ones. the near equivalent ngk is a BP6ET. either brand would have the same gap. if i were to get a single electrode plug, i would prefer to NOT get the 1.1mm and regap, we have found that the plugs that come with the correct gap from the factory will last a bit longer.

 

[Defiant]

we have found that the plugs that come with the correct gap from the factory will last a bit longer.

Even with the excellent quality-control of NGK, never trust the gap on a new plug. Measure them all.

 

[Awdboost]

The more boost you run the smaller the gap you will need.. I was running .26 at 30 psi and I was still blow out spark.. But that was with stock ign. You run a AEM and a better coil you will not need to run such a tight gap.

RRE Recomends 10-18 psi at .30 and .28 over 18 psi

 

[Defiant]

RRE Recomends 10-18 psi at .30 and .28 over 18 psi

No wonder they have blowout troubles.

Better with .030 ~ .028