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NGK BP7ES Spark Plugs

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XSNRGGST

15+ Year Contributor
159
0
May 26, 2007
Tucson, Arizona
I have a set of NGK BP7ES-es from my 4G64 conversion. I am wondering if these would be acceptable for my 97 Spyder GST with 450's, Walboro 255, pump 91 and 14 psi. I thought these were the one step cooler, but it seems that I may be thinking of the BPR's. Is the BP the older version? :confused:

Thanks in advance!

EAC
 
It's a different plug all together. It's all they had in stock at my local auto parts store so that's what I'm running now. They seem to be just fine. I'm not sure of the physical differences between the BP's and the BPR's, but they look almost identical. The guy's at the auto parts store said they are common snow mobile plugs so availability is good.
 
The BPR has a projecting resistor [porcelain, not resistor] which brings the bottom of the plug a little further into the combustion chamber. At high boost, this sometimes becomes a problem as far a creating a "hot spot" which is why some people use the BR plugs (non-projecting). If your knocking with the BPR6ES, try the BR6ES. If you need cooler, try the BPR7ES and if you're still running a little hot, try the BR7ES which is what I use. Some vehicles like the BPR6ES plugs and other run better with a step cooler (depending on the tune of course). You can't go wrong with the 7's in either style, but the BR's may foul easier from what I've heard. I had pictures of the differences which I can post, but I'm at work right now. I'll post them this afternoon.
 
They're one step colder than stock, and have no resistor for radio interference. With your mods, and living in Lower Hell (away from the vents), you'll probably be fine.
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/ngkjpg.htm
I mean, after all, it's what, twelve bucks for a set of plugs if you get raped? Yeh, I'd sure cut that corner for something that matters so little as an engine's ignition. :rolleyes:
 
I'm sorry Defiant, I know you are a moderator and you must have more experience and knowledge than I do about DSMs... But, I have to disagree with you this time...

Something I have learned, and also I confirmed it with my DSM mechanic, its about using spark plugs without resistor in turbocharged cars...

I had some problems when I did the first tune up to my car... I put some BP6ES's in my car the first time... and I started having problems especially when I was trying to accelerate hard, my CEL was on... sometimes on sometimes off...

So I took my car to my DSM mechanic, and he told me the problem were my BP6ES's... He suggested me to use always plugs with resistor, so I changed them for some BPR6ES's and my problem was gone...

He actually showed me and explained why.... according to him, the electric coil in the 4G63 (turbocharged) has no resistor in it, and it is exposed to high voltages that might be fired by the plugs... that's not the case in the 4G63 (aspirated)... the 420A does not have that problem...

So, he suggested me to use BPR's always in my turbocharged engine to protect my coil...
 
I've had to run them just because I couldn't find anything else at the time but non "R" plugs don't reduce EMI/RFI from your ignition system. I couldn't reliably use my DSMLink logger when the BP7ES plugs were installed.

Really, like Defiant said above, when the right plug is under $2 it doesn't make sense to buy BP7ES on purpose. Throw them in a toolbox for emergency use.
 
I didn't buy the BP7ESes on purpose. I asked for the BPR's. I bought a whole bunch of stuff at the same time, and didn't notice the difference. I don't have to use them, but I was thinking of doing a little maintenance and wanted to know if the ones I have will do and what the differences are.
It seems like that is a "not a good idea" kind of thing and I will just buy the BPR's.

Thanks for the help.

Eddie
 
I didn't buy the BP7ESes on purpose. I asked for the BPR's. I bought a whole bunch of stuff at the same time, and didn't notice the difference. I don't have to use them, but I was thinking of doing a little maintenance and wanted to know if the ones I have will do and what the differences are.
It seems like that is a "not a good idea" kind of thing and I will just buy the BPR's.

Thanks for the help.

Eddie


That's how I ended up with mine. My old BPR7's only had a few thousand on them. I just swapped for diagnosis purposes. Maybe I'll switch back. Will report if I see a difference.
 
So I took my car to my DSM mechanic, and he told me the problem were my BP6ES's... He suggested me to use always plugs with resistor, so I changed them for some BPR6ES's and my problem was gone...

He actually showed me and explained why.... according to him, the electric coil in the 4G63 (turbocharged) has no resistor in it, and it is exposed to high voltages that might be fired by the plugs... that's not the case in the 4G63 (aspirated)... the 420A does not have that problem...

So, he suggested me to use BPR's always in my turbocharged engine to protect my coil...
I disagree with your mechanic. The resistors are for noise suppression, and should have no effect on spark, ignition, or performance other than RFI generation.

I'd more suspect your gaps were wrong on the first set, but I wasn't there (Last time I was in Panama was '80. Before we gave it away).
 
anyone elts wont to take spark plug conversation personal. tell you what if anyone wants to get more serious. i have a really nice brand new coil pack. Will pull my plus outand will firemy car up. The gie who can hold onto the plug/ ground himself to the car. And not throw the plug when she fires. WINS

Any takers
 
Sorry everyone. I misread the information in regards to the origional post. Sometimes I wonder where my mind is besides under the hood. As far as using resistorless plugs, I've used them when I had the Nology Firewires and they worked fine. I really didn't see an increase in performance, but the plugs did not seem to cause a problem with RFI generation.
 
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