Next turbo upgrade after 16G?

[truwarrior]

My motor's stock and I'll trying to find out what turbo I can upgrade to without having to build the motor and still have good street spool? 18G worth it? I love how the 16G performs in the winter, ie 40-30 degree out but I'm not to happy about the summer performance. I have water injection and HAHN FMIC. Any sugguestions welcomed.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

You should upgrade your fuel system and get cams first. That will make a huge difference.

 

[turboglenn]

A 20g would be a nice upgrade, still spools faster than some large Garrets that flow teh same air and bolts to a stock manifold. Great turbo IMO, although the technology is considered "old" by some

And yes, make sure you have the fuel system to suppport a larger turbo, but if you've ran your 16g to where it's just not enough anymore i would imagine you have a decent fuel system already, but i haven't looked in your profile to see.

 

[Joesmoke]

A 20g is a nice turbo wih WI and an FMIC. It allows you to start building really good street power (400 hp range) while still having stock internals

Great things with a 20g:
Cams
A little headwork to allow you to rev higher
At sometime, maybe new intake mani, but not required.

You can end up wirh a really nice balanced street engine, with a lot of power.

Jason

 

[TheBoz]

20g or FP Green, or even a FP3052 or same size BW turbo. My buddie has a Green and loves it. Street car with 272's 720cc's and eprom with safc made like 360 on ca pump.

 

[truwarrior]

I was thinking a 20G aswell. I have a 190 FP and 650 PTE injectors. Will that be enough fuel? I know my 190 FP was running a little low towards redline with 20psi on the EVOIII.

Would CAMs be worth it if I'm not looking to build the motor?

Also since I'm FWD, I'm trying to find a balance of good power band power and spool vs slow spool and max HP. No point in having a dog of a car till 4500 rmps then having no traction when the turbo hits! I do have a EBC which will allow me to switch between high and low boost. I guess ultimately I want a turbo that I can lower and control the boost in 1st and 2nd, then have enough power in 3rd but not enough to loose traction. Right now I can usually pull all the way thru 2nd if the ground is flat and dry with minimal spin, but 3rd gear is kinda boring so to speak...

 

[Joesmoke]

Cams are worth it. With or without headwork.

650's are fine

The 190 fp is probably ok, but for a few bucks, go to the 255. It will do you for a 20g turbo with headroom.

Yes, the 20g physically can not spool like a smaller turbo, you'll barely notice it the 1st day, then love the fact that it will just pull all the way to redline.

 

[JusMX141]

The Big 16G, 18G, and 20G compressor wheels all have the same size exducer so, theoretically, spool times should be relatively similar as long as you're using the TD05H turbine.

I would never pay money to "upgrade" from a 16G to an 18G....it would have to be 20G or bigger to be worth it.

 

[turboglenn]

I was thinking a 20G aswell. I have a 190 FP and 650 PTE injectors. Will that be enough fuel? I know my 190 FP was running a little low towards redline with 20psi on the EVOIII.

Would CAMs be worth it if I'm not looking to build the motor?

Also since I'm FWD, I'm trying to find a balance of good power band power and spool vs slow spool and max HP. No point in having a dog of a car till 4500 rmps then having no traction when the turbo hits! I do have a EBC which will allow me to switch between high and low boost. I guess ultimately I want a turbo that I can lower and control the boost in 1st and 2nd, then have enough power in 3rd but not enough to loose traction. Right now I can usually pull all the way thru 2nd if the ground is flat and dry with minimal spin, but 3rd gear is kinda boring so to speak...

I have FWD and sometimes its a little better to have a turbo a little on the slow spooling side, it tends to help with traction. If the turbo hits to hard you'll break loose before you get moving and end up spinning a little more (of course it's kind of a fine line) I have a 57 trim and it hits about 4200-4500 and it did help a little bit in 1st gear to have some lag, but if i still flat shifted into second the tire grabbing pavement game was all over with I ended up getting a quife LSD in the tranny and that's done wonders for me. When i dyno'd 332 on pump it was actually sticking the tires almost completely through 2nd instead of cooking them. But now i've gone to E85 and 25-30psi daily so i'm kinda playing the same game with traction again, but these higher boost areas are where i can really tell that the lag seems to have some positive value at times.

I myself am wanting either a 20g or H1C so i get a little spool back and can still make near the same power on my setup. Now that i have traction, i'm after the broadest powerband i can get.

 

[dsm-onster]

The Big 16G, 18G, and 20G compressor wheels all have the same size exducer so, theoretically, spool times should be relatively similar as long as you're using the TD05H turbine.

I would never pay money to "upgrade" from a 16G to an 18G....it would have to be 20G or bigger to be worth it.

^^^Yes!

But if a proper turbine wheel is installed. . . OP which 18g are you wondering about?

What are your goals? A cam tweek can yield a more linear powerband.

 

[Black_Bullet]

A 30R is probably what Id want to upgrade to when I ditch the Evo316g one day.

 

[deflator]

But if a proper turbine wheel is installed. . .

As in the FP 18G-6SL2?

OP I'm in the same boat as you pretty much, trying to decide whether to go with the FP 18G or jump to a 20G or 50trim

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I went from an evo3 16g (MHI) on race gas to a GT35R on pump. It's a good change over IMO. 35R on pump is a bit more powerful than the 16g on race at the same boost levels.

 

[dsm-onster]

The hx35 or big h1c is of course what I personally would recommend if you're looking for 450-500whp. Mine spools as fast as my small 16g (not a typo), so street manners are very nice.