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new sensor but still have code (no crank)

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brandonf90

Proven Member
100
4
Oct 11, 2012
davenport, Iowa
i recently pulled my head and put new bearings on my connector rods.

i have a 7 bolt 46g3 turbo in a 99 eclipse gst.

i put a new head gasket etc in the car.

when i pulled the head and changed the bearings i reconnected all the sensors etc. and i whent to start the car but all i hear is one click from starter and then nothing happens. at this point the car was being jumped.

so i pulled out my obd2 reader and got the po335 code which was my crank posision sensor. so i ordered a new one and once it got here i put it in and got the timing all done and such. it then started right up after cranking for a few seconds. while hearing a knocking from my engine i shut it off. about 5 mins later i whent to start it up and then. nothing......

it did what it did before i put a new sensor in then the po335 code popped up yet again. im getting power to my starter and everthing. but once i shut it off it wont crank anymore.

also if i let the car sit with the negetive off for about a day and go to start it alot of times itll start up without the code being pulled but once i turn my car off it will come up and i cant start the car :banghead:

and yes i have cleared the code and reset the ecu and still nothing

so can anyone give me a hand figuring out whats wrong with my car??? im at a dead end atm
 
Last edited:
Regardless of the codes, etc, I am very concerned that after changing rod bearings you hear a knocking from the engine and the starter can't always turn it over. Unless your starter or solenoid are getting marginal, it sounds to me like a mechanical binding that is causing the knock and the starter cannot always overcome when the crank stops in certain points of the rotation. I assume you swapped in fresh STD bearings- and not oversize? Did you plastigage the rod bearings?

First, I'd check the battery health- what is the voltage? A marginal battery may not have enough umph to turn it over properly and the starter would just click. Next, pull the plugs and turn the motor over with a 1/2" ratchet- you should feel the normal variable resistance from the valve springs, but you should not have to "put out" just to get it to crank over and it should not have any significant binding points. If the battery is strong, the motor turns over easily, I'd start looking for other causes of the knock and rule out a bad starter solenoid, etc.

-wparks (Warren)
 
Was there a reason to replace the bearings or just because you could? Another thing you could do to help test is if your getting power to the crank sensor. Did an auto to manual swap on a friends spyder and the auto harness was junk had to power to the crank sensor. it would at least crank tho but popped the same code etc. Usually if the starter doesnt engage is either bad starter or bad grounds.
 
well i was able to grab a ratchet and easiely rotate the crank. and i changed the bearings because i had a spun one. so i whent and changed em all.

and yes i put some std bearings in they fit nice in here. but as i said it rotated quite smoothly

also another thing i did was rotate the crank to a few different posisions. but once that code pops it wont even attempt to turn over

i was told by a few people if that code pops your ecu will stop your car from even turning over because its a fail safe.

but what im trying to figure out is why i get that code popping up right after i changed the sensor. the code isnt there before i start it but it is after i shut it off
 
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