The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

new noise after the mechanic

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

danyz250f

15+ Year Contributor
631
6
Mar 13, 2005
Rexburg, Idaho
Ok I took my car to a mechanic and told them to fix an oil lleak and a water leak and they replaced the timing belt again and balancing shaft belt. They also replaced the cam seals and crank seal and I think another seal. I also had them set the timing back to 5 degrees advanced, I guess it was 7 degrees. Now my car runs rough and at like 2500 rpms It has a vibration that sounds like it is coming from the timing belt side behind the motor. What could the vibration be. Would the timing change be a cause.:mad: I dont seem to have a loss in power. I am just trying to get an idea before I take it back.
 
your ecu reads the way the car acts if a factor is reset to something other than the ecu is used to seeing it take a while for the ecu to reconize the differance. basicly the more you drive the car the better it will get
 
My guess is they mis-aligned the balance shafts. There are two of them, one is built into the oil pump sprocket and is driven by the timing belt, and the other is towards the left side of the block (front of the car) and is driven by the balance shaft belt off of a crank sprocket.

If any of them are off a tooth or so, you would feel a vibration like you are describing.
 
Sure hope it is not the balancing shaft the mechanic knows dsms and has made those mistakes before and he knows what he is doing but he could have made a mistake. I think I will drive it for a day and see if it fixes itself.

thanks
 
So doesn't the balancing shaft keep the engine from vibrating? I want to know how taking it out would help.
 
if they didn't ground the terminal properly your timing is probably set way too far advanced. Look at the vfaq for the terminal to ground, make sure your diagnostic port doesn't have anything plugged in (logger cable) and check the timing again.

If you ground the terminal, but have a logger plugged in, you'll end up with massive retard, if the other way, you'll end up advanced. Plus the timing bounces around. It's kind of messed up.
 
After I had a tbelt job done a while back at a shop, I had the same exact problem as you. What happened was that apparently the guys at the shop knocked my cat shield a little loose somehow. Anyways, it made a horrible rattling noise at 2500 rpms. An easy way to check is to get in the car and rev it to 2500, or wherever it makes the noise/vibration and have some push on the cat, with a crow bar, hammer, etc. If the noise goes away, you know what the problem is. The only thing is that you say a vibration, if it really is more of a vibration you can feel than just a noise then a rattling cat isn't gonna cause that. Hope that helps.
 
Actually you can have the oil pump/balance shaft mark lined up perfectly,and get a wicked vib. make sure its not 180 out
 
If you paid mechanic to fix it take it back. I do stuff myself and end up fixing stuff three times to get it right but save money. You paid the guy and something is messed up where he was working on so he needs to get it right not you.When I first got my Talon I had to redo a bunch of stuff other owner had done, like timing belt, tensioner was clicking like hell. So he got ripped off by bad mechanic, you should get your moneys worth and have it fixed right. Good luck.
 
Freakin sin, I just got my car back and it seems to run great, but he said he tore a the belts off again and didnt fing anything wrong. But he said that there was a guard that fell on or was bent in the exhaust of the drive line. Wel I am still mad because they charged me 98 buck to fix it and I dont know why I should pay for there mistakes. The $98 was fo labor puling the belts off and checking the marks.

What do you guys thing should I be a dick and not pay the $98 for labor?:mad: :mad: :mad:
 
Have the money on hand, but politely ask why your being charged for a "repair" on something you did not do. Make sure you don't play the blame game though. Don't tell him what HE did wrong etc. Ask politely.

My HONEST opinion would be to pay the money and watch the look on his face when the problem happens AGAIN and you REFUSE to pay. Think about it, you said he did'nt find anything wrong? Hmm, how can a problem be solved when nothing was fixed? Common sense says he MUST have touched something. Sorry if I've lead you in the wrong direction but just be polite and have patience. Good Luck

edit-That guard that fell...any idea what it is? Or any way you could explain what it looks like?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top