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jott5555 said:
one thing i learned the hardest way NEVER break in a new engine with a new turbo.. you will toast your new turbo.. pte is nice and rebuilt mine fo free for me.. but still DONT DO IT.. read lots on engine break in t25 for the first 500 miles and slowly turn up the boost try not to knock it too bad.. then after 500-1k let that sucker outta the bag and start pullin 11's


soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo true
 
1g's dont have a crank sensor only 2g's do. The cam angle sensor is not installed yet theres other parts that are missing too like power steering pump, alternator, intercooler and piping, and even less obvious the WHOLE FRONT END =) All of these parts will hopefully be on this weekend. I also dont plan on going into boost at all (1-3lbs if that) for the first 1000 miles. I broke in my old 2g with a 16g and had no problems. You just have to make sure you change the oil frequenly as I mentioned above and do not use synthetic oil for the first 3000 miles.
 
Nice job on the engine man, everything looks pro:thumb:

Is that a fram oil filter on there:p ROFL
 
MXD said:
If this is true, how do they keep you from blowing the turbo when the car was bought brand new from the factory? Its got to be broken in also? (Not trying to start a arguement, just wondering) Oh yeah, and would a inline filter help?
I too would like to know this.
 
Correct me if I,m wrong but the oil travels from the strainer into the pump and through the oil filter before it reraches the turbo? If this is the case how can the break in period destroy a turbo? Also how do race teams break in engines and not change the turbos after their done? I do not buy everyone else's damage the turbo break in theory depending on where the turbo is getting it's oil. If the turbo is getting it's oil after the filter I don't buy it after all thats what an oil filter is for.
 
Haha yea its a fram it wont be on there long, once it fires up im going to let the car run for 20 minutes or so then drain the oil and change the filter.
 
TOPSECRET said:
1. Correct me if I,m wrong but the oil travels from the strainer into the pump and through the oil filter before it reraches the turbo?
2. If this is the case how can the break in period destroy an engine?
3. Also how do race teams break in engines and not change the turbos after their done?

1. If you source the oil feed from the head, the oil is not clean. Any metal left in the motor from the machining process will be brought up to the head and some may end up going through the turbo. I source my turbo feed from the oil filter housing for this reason (its also cooler oil).

2. Metal left behind from machining is carried to the head and then the turbo.

3. Because they are excellent engine builders and remove all material left on the block from the machining process. I purchased my shortblock already machined and ready to be assembled. I brought it to a profession engine builder who found an oil galley plug that hadnt been removed. Behind the plug was large amounts of metal the was left from machining and had travel up the galley during the hot tank.


BTW, you'll enjoy the extra displacment.
 
guys come on now don't frieghten the boy with your BS talk about blowing up turbo's when breaking in a motor, and the line of BS about not using synthetic motor oil? wrong!. Here's the real deal on that whole situation, by the way motor looks good so far. ok here goes: 1st, your not going to ruin your turbo while breaking in your motor IF you did everything your supposed to do when assembling the engine. I am assuming that you put the engine together and is wasn't done at a machine shop or anything like that. the reason that MOST turbo's get into trouble after a rebuilt engine is because the person is so excited that they don't let the motor cool down, not some wierd BS. 2nd, it's true that the oil feeding the turbo goes through the filter first. But for the extra 20 - 50 dollars it would cost you for an inline -4an filter (I personally reccomend Earl's, via Jeg's or Summit Racing Equipment) (I'm also assuming that you've upgraded your turbo oil feed line to a -4an style) why not do it ?. cheap insurance. and 3rd, use synthetic oil and good filters not pepboys oil and some $2 filter to save money. and 1 other tip, buy an oil drain plug (the one that goes in the oil pan) that is magnetic and cut your filters open after oil changes to check for the amount of debris inside. Just take your time with it, as this is an expensive project. Good luck with the rest of the build and enjoy the stroker. Jace :dsm:
 
I agree with everything stated above except the comment about synthetic oil. It is important for the piston rings to wear the first 500 miles or so. A cross-hatched cylinder wall will not effectively wear a piston ring in the presence of synthetic oils because they are too "slippery". The ring will seat but will not be worn correctly.

Its not absolutely necessary to run mineral oil during break-in but it will aid in proper piston ring wear.
 
I am thinking about upgrading my lines to 4an. Does anyone know the part's or part numbers needed to do this? Should I do 4an in and out to the pan? or should I just use the stock return line? What size fittings do I need for the oil pump, turbo inlet, turbo outlet, and oil pan, to run 4an? Should I not even go 4an? I heard you can have oil pressure issues, and you may need a restictor fitting. Should I just stay stock lines?Also the head and block were both proffesionally done the only thing I did was put it back together.
Thanks,
-Brian
 
don't forget to heat cycle the motor before you drive the car (it's a race engine secret my cousin taught me)

1st- start the engine and let it get up to temp
2nd- shut off the engine and let it cool completely (couple hours)
3rd- rinse and repeat (just repeat 5-6 times, DO NOT RINSE!!!!!!)
4th- check for oil, fuel, coolant, PS, brake fluid, etc. leaks
5th- cherry on top and enjoy
 
redeclipse7782 said:
SBR Stainless Tubular w/ Tial 38mm Flange
Tial 38mm Wastegate

Are SBR's manifolds 304 or 321?

redeclipse7782 said:
Neither of these companys has what I was looking for.

Call them before assuming that they do not have what you want.
 
Slowly but surely its getting there.
 

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Nice dude! You gotta get some dyno #'s or something after that motor is broken in. Also, let us know how that coating in your engine bay works out once you start putting some DD heat into it.
 
redeclipse, hope to see you around when everything is up and running. boy, are those front licence plate regulations just a kick in the crotch though...
 
Don't most new performance cars (Evo anybody) run synthetic oil from the get go... I believe that the Evo oil cap says to run mobile 1 specifically.... Could be wrong but I believe this is the case.
 
DSMunknown i'll def be out in the city once it is done, it will be my daily driver for 3 seasons. The license plate rules are horrible I was stopped at least 3 times on my old eclipse. I just dont want them to have another reason to stop me.

Ravenous those stock engines also do not have forged internals. The non-synthetic oil helps on sealing the piston rings. I also thought that stock engines were bench broken in but I'm not sure. I cant see them assemling an engine and not breaking it in, when they know the new owner is just going to jump in it and beat on it from the start.
 
The engines are not bench broken in that would require thousands of man hours. You can run synthetic form the begining the how slippery an oil is has nothing to due with the actual break in properties of an oil at all. What does forged internals have to due with engine break in? Many cars come factory with synthetic motor oil mercedes,bmw,porsche,evo,vette, etc. this is factory in the crankcase when you buy it so if the super large and wealthy automakers thinks it's good for their engines why would it not be good enough for your dsm?
 
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