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TOPSECRET said:
You can run synthetic form the begining the how slippery an oil is has nothing to due with the actual break in properties of an oil at all.

What? The properties of conventional motor oil is the exact reason why it is recommended by many to "break-in" an engine with conventional and then switch to synthetic.
 
Car is coming along great. Looks awesome!!

Too bad all this misinformation in this thread about how to break properly break in a motor. PM greg collier or search for motoman engine break in procedure on google.
 
Regardless of how many people tell us there thoughts on syn versus conventional oil, this debate will never be settled for some. The oil manufactures says it is perfectly ok to break in a motor on syntheic oil and does not cause problems with rings seating. But on the other hand you are not going to cause damage to your motor by using conventional oil to break it in. Depending on your break in method you can save a lot of money by using conventional oil. To each his own, do it the way you feel is best for you.
 
Also car makers and dealerships make there money on the come back. Of course they are going to tell you to run synthetic its fine blah blah. You may not see any problems at first, then you have piston ring blow by and they blame you for beating on the car. Since when have car companies in the past 20-30 years or so been so helpful on making sure your car runs right? There was even an interesting article in Popular Mechanics a few months back written by Jay Leno. He showed how older cars came with intruction manuals that showed you how to work on your car, todays manuals barely show you how to change a lightbulb and its a 10-15 part project just to get to the lightbulb.

Working on newer cars now a days is so much more difficult to do then on older cars. Either car companys make cars this way to discourage you from working on them because A) they want your money and dont want you to save money by doing it yourself or B) they dont want you to get hurt while attempting to work on the car yourself and sueing them. I think its a little combination of both.
 
redeclipse7782 said:
Also car makers and dealerships make there money on the come back. Of course they are going to tell you to run synthetic its fine blah blah. You may not see any problems at first, then you have piston ring blow by and they blame you for beating on the car. Since when have car companies in the past 20-30 years or so been so helpful on making sure your car runs right? There was even an interesting article in Popular Mechanics a few months back written by Jay Leno. He showed how older cars came with intruction manuals that showed you how to work on your car, todays manuals barely show you how to change a lightbulb and its a 10-15 part project just to get to the lightbulb.
Since Toyota and Honda starting kicking there butts in the reliabilty department. All of the manufacturs have stepped on quailty and making sure people know what they are supposed to do for maintenaince.
 
snox135 said:
Since Toyota and Honda starting kicking there butts in the reliabilty department. All of the manufacturs have stepped on quailty and making sure people know what they are supposed to do for maintenaince.

3,000 miles: bring car to dealership so they can overcharge you,
6,000 miles: bring car to dealership so they can overcharge you even more
9,000 miles: bring car to dealership so they can tell you something is broke that they probably broke at 6,000 miles when they were working on the car, has now become a problem and they wont admit that its there fault
12,000 miles bring car to dealership so they can over charge you for something they claim they did but in actuality didn't even do.
15,000 miles bring car to dealership, after getting the car back you now have an unexplained problem, the dealership can't figure it out, and the technician that worked on your car can't remember what he did, so now they are going to have your car for 2-3 weeks, how convienent.


No thanks, I would rather work on the car myself and know what exactly I did.
 
Black95TSIawd said:
Synthetic oil is NOT to be used during engine break in.

Where did I say to use synthetic during engine break in? I sure as hell don't see anywhere.
 
I never said you had to take it to them to do the work. What I was saying is the dealers are alot better at informing you of what needs to be done and when. Plus they are making cars to last alot longer than they used to. 30 years ago the big 3 intentionally made cars to last 60-80k, so people would have to buy new cars. They don't want there cars coming back with ring blow by because of synethic oil break in. Wehter they make you pay for it or not it gives them a bad name. Also more and more manufactures are offering free maintenance for the first x0,000 miles.
 
I suggest running mineral oil during breakin. I run mineral oil for the first two oil changes (first heat cycle and 100 miles). Then I switch to a synthetic blend for 200 miles, then finally full synthetic. Engine breakin is essentially the first 20 miles put on the car. Synthetic oil is too slick and rings and cylinder walls do not correctly wear during the initial breakin.

Here is a good link that makes reference to the factory-filled synthetic cars (R&T article):

http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htm

Modern cars can run synthetic from the factory because the engineer have designed cylinder wall finishes that are compatible with synthetic oil. There is a great degree of control and precision at the factory. A motor that is build by a machine shop does not meet the exact cylinder wall specifications of the automaker.

My machinist/engine builder had the exact same things to say regaurding engine breakin and I respect his advice.
 
That is bulshit about new motors and killing your turbo. Like was said then the factory turbos would all be killed wouldn't they.
I know lots of people that have broken in new motors with new turbos. Not everyone can go fit on a used t25 or 14b just for break in.
I did the usual precautions...changed out oil after prime on engine stand,after 15 minutes run time, after 150 or so break in miles and and next will be 500 and 2000 and then 5000.
I also did some stuff for extra protection.I installed a magnetic drain plug and there was some metal on there.I also used a filtermag on oil filter and lastly an inline oil feed filter to my FP3065.
I saw nothing in the inline filter when checked it so far.
Also I would suspect more people might hurt turbo by not priming it on initial fireup but again don't think the factory primes the turbo when the car is new either.

And some guys think any shaft play is non normal when most will have some shaft play.
If turbo is boosting and not pushing oil out then its fine. Many guys are super paranoid.

Fp guarantees against oil contamination since I am using one of their oil filters for life I think it is and they said I would be fine with break in with the FP3065.

So not overly worried.
I could see oil starvation from maybe too much crap at break in happening that would maybe be the true cause of problems.
 
Splitpi said:
Wouldn't then it just be prudent to put an inline filter on the oil feed line to the turbo?

I wouldn't advise this seeing that it would hurt oil flow to the turbo which is not at all good. And if the filter clogged up then you would burn the turbo up in a heartbeat.
 
LA97GST said:
And if the filter clogged up then you would burn the turbo up in a heartbeat.

If the filter gets clogged then you have more serious problems than a dead turbo.
 
umm that is what you do put an filter on the feed line. You check it to make sure its ok.It isn't that easy to clog one up if you look inside one .They recommend checking it every oil change.
 
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