New brakes still noisy - wrong rotors????

[slipkid]

I have a '99 Eclipse GSX. One of my front wheels was making loud scraping, grinding, noises even when brakes not engaged, so I took it to local shop who told me the calipers were "locked/frozen" on that wheel and that the pads, rotors, and calipers all needed to be replaced. And in addition they noticed that the other front wheel had the same problem (just not making any noise).

So they replaced the rotors, pads, and calipers on both front wheels.

Have driven the car 2 days since then and noticed big improvement immediately; no noises at all the first day, plus I guess the brakes were really draggin' because I get a lot more pickup now!!

But today I notice I am getting the grinding/squealing noises again. Not constantly like before but quite often. And if it is not happening and I apply the brakes, then it starts squealing and continues to squeal for several miles afterward while driving even with not applying the brakes. Plus it sounds like it is the other wheel making the noise now.

Could they have done something wrong when replacing the parts? Not installed something right????? I noticed on my invoice that the parts for the rotors says "Honda rotors-N". Does Honda make rotors that fit my car or did they install the wrong thing????

Appreciate any clues. I am calling the shop up tomorrow to see what they have to say. Also by strange coincidence today my "service engine soon" light came on and won't turn off so something else is going on too. Sigh...

 

[DeNoZZo]

I replaced my rotors and pads a while ago, Mine made a faint rubbing/scraping sound for about a week after I put them on. It eventually went away. I'm guessing it's just the pads/rotors getting broke in.

 

[slipkid]

I replaced my rotors and pads a while ago, Mine made a faint rubbing/scraping sound for about a week after I put them on. It eventually went away. I'm guessing it's just the pads/rotors getting broke in.

Thanks. I wondering if it is a normal thing, maybe that's it.

 

[99gst214]

They did put dual piston calipers back on right? The shop did know that the car was AWD? This doesnt seem like the issue, but just to make sure i would double check all the parts are correct. Normally new brakes will take around 7 to 10 days of good driving to break in properly. I suggest to give it some time and if the problem still continues then take it back to the shop that did the work.

 

[97 Talon Esi]

Another Possible cause for your brakes to be squealing is if you bought economy brake pads. The best brake pads in my mind are ceramics no sounds and no dust.

 

[4g63eagle]

Another Possible cause for your brakes to be squealing is if you bought economy brake pads. The best brake pads in my mind are ceramics no sounds and no dust.

+1 on the economy brake pads alot of shops use them because ceramics are roughly $39.99 when the cheap metal ones are $19.99 check the list price on your paperwork that would be my guess

 

[slipkid]

They did put dual piston calipers back on right? The shop did know that the car was AWD? This doesnt seem like the issue, but just to make sure i would double check all the parts are correct. Normally new brakes will take around 7 to 10 days of good driving to break in properly. I suggest to give it some time and if the problem still continues then take it back to the shop that did the work.

Thanks.

They definitely know (or should know) that the car is AWD. I don't know what calipers they installed other than the name of "calipers-S" and part # CLP 18-B4670/467 on the receipt. I've searched on the 'net but I don't know what part they actually are. They did charge me for two of them, at a cost of about $84 each.

How can I find out if they are "dual piston calipers"?? Is that something I can tell by looking at them somehow???

I'm planning on calling them to see what they say, I need to bring the car back in now anyways to get the diagnostics looked at for the "service engine soon" thing that just turned on today....

Another Possible cause for your brakes to be squealing is if you bought economy brake pads. The best brake pads in my mind are ceramics no sounds and no dust.

Thanks.

According to the receipt they installed "Blue Ceramic Pads-N". Not sure if those are economy class or what. Hmmm, weird thing on the receipt is that it says quantity=1. That makes no sense though since they definitely installed new rotors on both wheels - could they have left same brake pads on one of the wheels?? I don't think so (?). Or maybe they came 2 per package, one for each wheel?? The parts price for the pads was $88 btw.

 

[JonP]

The pads come as a set (2 for the left and 2 for the right).

As to tell if it's single or dual piston, check the backside of the caliper.

What your's should look like (photo courtesy of google images):

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[Rob10_99]

Your pads came in a box of 4, two for each front disc. That's the usual industry standard for auto's.

 

[slipkid]

Hey, thanks. I actually think I understand. I will see what I can figure out from looking/feeling around back there. God I hope they installed dual ones; I can't imagine them putting something on different from what the car should have but you never know. If they installed single ones then I am screwed because I cannot afford to eat the cost of these and get new ones put in right by somebody else.....I'm already out about $625 for this brake job.

Your pads came in a box of 4, two for each front disc. That's the usual industry standard for auto's.

THANKS! Sorry for any stupid questions.

I really appreciate everyone helping me out.

 

[keslerkaiyu]

The pads come as a set (2 for the left and 2 for the right).

As to tell if it's single or dual piston, check the backside of the caliper.

What your's should look like (photo courtesy of google images):

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WoW.. you just let it hang like that?

 

[95gst16g]

What your's should look like
(photo courtesy of google images)<<<<<-----------

:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

[/QUOTE]


No I dont think he does just let it hang there,but someone does.

 

[slipkid]

I checked out my brakes and I'm pretty sure they are the dual piston variety - I could feel behind there through the wheel spokes and there were 2 screw type thingees at each end suggesting it was dual piston (sorry for the lame techspeak, but I don't know the right names for things - like what is the entire brake thing called that contains the pistons/pads???).

Also I spoke to the garage and they said that the brake noises I am getting now are normal, that they should go away as the pads break in. I am bringing the car back in for the "check engine soon" diagnostic light coming on and while there I will ask about the brakes again.

 

[EclipseTical]

I checked out my brakes and I'm pretty sure they are the dual piston variety - I could feel behind there through the wheel spokes and there were 2 screw type thingees at each end suggesting it was dual piston (sorry for the lame techspeak, but I don't know the right names for things - like what is the entire brake thing called that contains the pistons/pads???).

Also I spoke to the garage and they said that the brake noises I am getting now are normal, that they should go away as the pads break in. I am bringing the car back in for the "check engine soon" diagnostic light coming on and while there I will ask about the brakes again.

the "2 screw type thingees" are the caliper mounting bolts; they are on all brakes and do not determine whether or not the caliper is single or dual piston. The simply bolt the caliper to the mounting bracket on the hub.

You need to visually inspect the caliper [ the correct name for the "entire brake thing that contains the pistons/pads btw] and determine whether it is single or dual piston. If you look at the picture above, right where the brake line bolts up, you can tell that is a dual piston caliper because of the area that looks kind of like a sideways number 8. A single-piston caliper will only have 1 circle -vs- the 2 you see on the dual-piston caliper.

can't find a pic with the correct angle to match the one posted above, but here is a single-piston caliper: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...ebuild-front-brake-calipers-bc_rebuild_10.jpg

 

[slipkid]

the "2 screw type thingees" are the caliper mounting bolts; they are on all brakes and do not determine whether or not the caliper is single or dual piston. The simply bolt the caliper to the mounting bracket on the hub.

You need to visually inspect the caliper [ the correct name for the "entire brake thing that contains the pistons/pads btw] and determine whether it is single or dual piston. If you look at the picture above, right where the brake line bolts up, you can tell that is a dual piston caliper because of the area that looks kind of like a sideways number 8. A single-piston caliper will only have 1 circle -vs- the 2 you see on the dual-piston caliper.

can't find a pic with the correct angle to match the one posted above, but here is a single-piston caliper: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...ebuild-front-brake-calipers-bc_rebuild_10.jpg

Excellent description, thanks. You are correct, I was thinking the bolts were the pistons.

I'lll take another look tomorrow and see what I can figure out. I don't really have an option for easily removing the wheel to look at them though, if worst comes to worst I will just bug the shop about this for confirmation when I take the car back in this week.

 

[pwnzer]

Excellent description, thanks. You are correct, I was thinking the bolts were the pistons.

I'lll take another look tomorrow and see what I can figure out. I don't really have an option for easily removing the wheel to look at them though, if worst comes to worst I will just bug the shop about this for confirmation when I take the car back in this week.

Dont use this for an extended period of time, but you can use the scissors jack that came with the car, and then pull the wheel off. DO NOT EVER GO UNDER THE CAR WITH JUST A JACK SUPPORTING IT. But if you're just checking your brakes that will work. Also check to make sure the pads and hardware are installed correctly. I'm assuming since you had it done at a shop they are, but you never know.

 

[slipkid]

Dont use this for an extended period of time, but you can use the scissors jack that came with the car, and then pull the wheel off. DO NOT EVER GO UNDER THE CAR WITH JUST A JACK SUPPORTING IT. But if you're just checking your brakes that will work. Also check to make sure the pads and hardware are installed correctly. I'm assuming since you had it done at a shop they are, but you never know.

Thanks. I was able to turn the steering wheel hard in one direction then get my hands in there and feel around at the backside of the caliper and it definitely does not have just the one single piston bulge back there, it feels like it has the double piston "figure 8" going on, so I'm pretty sure they did put dual piston type calipers on.

So I'm not going to go the route of removing the wheel for a better look.

I am taking the car into tomorrow for the "service engine soon" light issue and I will try to bug them some more about the brakes. I can understand that they would have a break-in period where they may make some noise when used but I'm still hazy as to why the wheels would continue to make those squeals/grinds AFTER the brakes are no longer engaged.

 

[pwnzer]

Well let us know how it goes and if nothing is fixed and you still have problems be sure to post up.

 

[southrneclipser]

sounds like you got pretty jipped on that break job. Their price for labor is either sky high or they just took a really long time. Almost 700 bucks for new brakes on only the front is muffed up. You could have got completely new brakes all the way around and done it yourself for way less

 

[slipkid]

sounds like you got pretty jipped on that break job. Their price for labor is either sky high or they just took a really long time. Almost 700 bucks for new brakes on only the front is muffed up. You could have got completely new brakes all the way around and done it yourself for way less

Yeah no kidding! The labor charge is ridiculous but I don't have any choice.

If I knew of somewhere else to go that would be cheaper, or could do it myself believe me I would. I envy you guys with the knowledge, tools, time, resources, etc to do your own work.

I used to do most everything on my old cars but that was 25 years ago, back when I had friends that knew stuff and could teach me what I didn't know how to do. My old '65 Mustang I (we) did everything - ez stuff like oil changes, sparkplugs, radiator, points, etc to harder stuff like replacing the drum type brakes, and we even replaced the clutch, which was a 12-14 hour marathon job (don't ask).

I'm pretty much clueless now in how to work on things, plus I don't have anywhere like an inside garage to work, or access to anyone else with a car that can run me out to get needed parts that are discovered after things are taken apart. So I'm pretty much screwed needing to depend on a mechanic to do the work (not to mention that I don't have the time to work on things myself anyway).

Anyways, I am glad I stuck to my guns and made them check the brakes again today. There WAS something wrong, one of the calipers (driver side) wasn't hooked up right or something like that, which was causing the new noises I was hearing. "Break-in period" was b.s. Although I can understand to some extent that new brakes might make some noise at first it made no sense to me that they would make noise/create something rubbing WHEN THEY WEREN'T ON! Sheesh.

Now that they adjusted them in whatever they did today, they are quiet as a mouse, whether on or off. Whew.


New thing now though is why the "check engine soon" light is on and what it takes to fix it. It cost $80 for them just to do the diagnostics (I guess they hook something up to a computer and it tells them what to look for, I dunno). Supposedly the problem is a part that has to do with venting something to do with the gas tank? Some kind of solenoid. The part alone will cost $100 and on top of that they are charging me another $150 to replace it in addition to the $80 diagnostic fee, and to add insult to injury they couldn't even get the part in yet and won't have it until next week so I have to bring the car in again (which makes it 3 times in 2 weeks).

Thanks for all the comments.

 

[pwnzer]

They do have to hook up a p code reader to your computer aka OBDII (On board diagnostics). From that code they can determine the issue, usually its an o2 sensor.

 

[95gst16g]

You could but your own code reader for around 80bucks maybe a little more I would sugest you do that.They are so simple to use and not that expensive.that way if anything happens again you wont get shafted for another 80bucks.Just my 2 cents.

 

[pwnzer]

You could but your own code reader for around 80bucks maybe a little more I would sugest you do that.They are so simple to use and not that expensive.that way if anything happens again you wont get shafted for another 80bucks.Just my 2 cents.

+1 and all the codes can be found online or asking on these forums.

 

[slipkid]

They do have to hook up a p code reader to your computer aka OBDII (On board diagnostics). From that code they can determine the issue, usually its an o2 sensor.

Funny you say that, the O2 sensor did die on my car not too long ago, I'm thinking in the last 2-3 years? I was wondering if it was the same thing again but they explained it as something else, something they have to take the gas tank out to get at??? They said it was a 2 hour job??? I'll find out more next week I guess.

You could but your own code reader for around 80bucks maybe a little more I would sugest you do that.They are so simple to use and not that expensive.that way if anything happens again you wont get shafted for another 80bucks.Just my 2 cents.

That's a really cool idea. I will look into that, will start googling around or searching threads here maybe over the weekend....

 

[EclipseTical]

Glad you got the brakes straightened out, sorry you got reamed on the labor though. Brakes are a really easy job to do by yourself so hopefully next time you need them you can find a local member to guide you through it. Most of us are more than happy to help out if you toss a free beer our way

As far as an OBD2 reader goes, depending on your personal goals for the car i highly recommend you may w consider spending the money on a logging device for the car instead of just a dedicated OBD2 reader like you can find at Pep Boys/Autozone. Many of the loggers will also have a function that can read and disable the CEL codes. Having some kind of logger is an invaluable tool in finding problems that arise like dead o2s, etc, especially if you are planning on getting into heavy mods in the future.

Before i got DSMLink i used the pocketlogger software from obd2.com with a cheapo e-bay palm pilot . It wasn't extremely fancy but had decent logging capabilities and it would also tell me what codes were popping up and allow me to clear them.

Search this site for the different logging tools people are using. Many can be had for cheap, some were available for free last i checked. Send me a PM if you want any more info about the pocketlogger software i had used.