Need recommendations on steering wheel hub boss adaptor

[PlanZero]

As I wait for my new MOMO steering wheel I'd like some input on hub adaptors. I don't plan on using a quick release hub so all I need
is a regular size boss kit. I know the $10-20 eBay adaptors are crap, but there's also these type,made out of a solid piece of aluminum. I don't know what these are a knock off of, or I'd look into the original manufacturer.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-ALUMINU...IPSE-LANCER-/381822718250?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
Now I planned on getting the momo adaptor for about $80 but one thing that turns me off is the fact that underneath the rubber sleeve, the adaptor consists of four pieces of steel in a conical shape, designed to collapse upon impact.
The reason I'm upgrading wheels in the first place is because my stock wheel is getting beat to sh*t since I converted to manual steering. Not that I don't think that MOMO adaptors can't take a beating (after all, most race cars are manual), but if I can get a more stout piece for $50 less that'd be nice.
The biggest complaints about the super cheap eBay kits (momo/sparco knockoff) are the fact they can crack or the bolts strip out. I plan on using the MOMO bolts. Since the newer type is only a solid piece of aluminum I don't see how it wouldn't work. If the holes aren't threaded properly,I'll just get a refund. If anyone can tell me what this design is a knock off of that'd be great. I found something similar by billet industries but they don't make one for eclipses.

 

[SasaniFab]

The steering wheel is a real momo? For the love of god do not buy a hub adaptor off of eBay unless it is authentic. You can get a nrg quick release and hub adaptor for 200 bucks. This is an example of something someone should NEVER do. You remove a oem steering wheel and bolt on a
Chinese pos that can break off and kill you ..... for what? My suggestion is either do it right or don't do it all. Save up and do it correctly.... you'll be much happier in the end

 

[PlanZero]

Not sure what you mean by save up and do it correctly. Just because it cost more means nothing. The steering wheel is authentic. I don't want quick release. I was going to originally buy a momo or sparco adaptor, until I saw the design. Hence the original question. EBay itself is not a problem as everyone and their mother has an eBay store now. It's the potential for crappy parts, though my $200 eBay exhaust from the same company fit perfect, sounds amazing and has been holding up great for years. Same with the $100 radiator. This solid hunk of aluminum is something I can't see being that inferior, though I would gladly buy the original design manufacturer as I like the style compared to the collapsible type. NRG products are also mid grade chinese and their steering wheels are flimsy, and sub par quick release hubs can cause all kinds of problems. So we're sticking with the traditional conical type, it's just a question of which one.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The steel fornthe momo ones is plenty string enough and its not going to collapse turning a manual rack, the billet aluminum ones are nice aswel.

The think you want tonworry about are 2 things! The slines for the steering shaft! And the factory clockspring!

Aluminum is not as strong as steel butbince clamped it should be ok and not ruing the splines,
But that aluminum on your link looks good and also possibly avoids the removal of the clock spring!

Stay away from the NRG hub! Its crap and i wish i had more time to find another! Its hub is badly designed and you HAVE to remove your clockspring! No where said this anywhere and there was no way around it but remove it!

So either tue momo steel one of your aluminum one is fine to use, just what ever you like best really,

 

[PlanZero]

^ Thank you good sir. Im pretty sure I'll have to remove the clock spring with any adaptor. I still can't find the original version of the hub adaptor I posted above. As we all know, these cheap eBay products are all knockoffs of other more expensive products, but for the life of me I can't find it.
I was also concerned about the splines, as well as the bolt holes themselves. I realize once it's clamped down it should be fine, but the old school side of me is always wary of soft ass aluminum, though sparco and NRG are also aluminum. Ideally I would like the same design made out of a solid hunk of steel.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

^ Thank you good sir. Im pretty sure I'll have to remove the clock spring with any adaptor. I still can't find the original version of the hub adaptor I posted above. As we all know, these cheap eBay products are all knockoffs of other more expensive products, but for the life of me I can't find it.
I was also concerned about the splines, as well as the bolt holes themselves. I realize once it's clamped down it should be fine, but the old school side of me is always wary of soft ass aluminum, though sparco and NRG are also aluminum. Ideally I would like the same design made out of a solid hunk of steel.

The only worry i would have is the splines, nothing else, hubs and spacers are allways 99% aluminum anyway including mine and the spacer i will be buying soon so its perfectly safe, the grades are normally pretty strong so even the splines might still be good since the clamping load it via the nut and not the splines.

Perhaps see what rogue engineering have as i have there QR hub and they may offer something of use to you

 

[PlanZero]

I'm just curious as to why you need a spacer? I assume because you're using the NRG short hub? Do you have a flat or deep dish wheel? The wheel I ordered has a slight depth, I'm waiting to see how much room I'll have once I get it and take it from there.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I'm just curious as to why you need a spacer? I assume because you're using the NRG short hub? Do you have a flat or deep dish wheel? The wheel I ordered has a slight depth, I'm waiting to see how much room I'll have once I get it and take it from there.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Because i wan itncloser to me to give me my steering arm angle! You dont want it straight as its bad and hurts after a while, so with my seat being further back i wanter the spacer to take up some room

 

[PlanZero]

OK I just wanted to update. I wound up just getting the momo hub from streetrays for $75 shipped. I figured I'd have to spend $30+$20 for momo bolts if I went the eBay route so an extra $25 for momo was no biggie. I took these pics for anyone who doesn't realize how a momo/sparco hub boss is constructed. I still would prefer a solid piece, but since i couldnt find that style for a dsm (brand name, not ebay) Ill just go with momo for now. I also lucked out and got an authentic NOS from 2008 momo corse wheel (above pic) for only $90 shipped from a guy in Greece. He has a bunch of NOS BNIB, ranging from $40-90 USD plus $50 shipping.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.