Need help with timing belt

[sherwinz28]

So I finally get the car back together after a head rebuild, skipped a few teeth. So the belt is basically brand new with only about 300 miles on it with all new pulleys from the last time the belt was shredded so about 300 miles on all the pulleys and tbelt. I check the distance between the tensioner, which is brand spankin new, and I can fit the proper sized drill bit in between the body and the tensioner so I think everything is ok. I go to start the car and it makes this loud screeching noise and I check under the hood and it is smoking right from the pulley where the tensioner tensions the belt to. I notice the pulley isn't spinning at all so I shut the car down asap and notice the belt has burned up a little and left a slight burn mark on the top of the belt...not where the teeth touch though.

In any case do you think this pulley is bad or did I torque it too hard, what could be the problem? Note this pulley has about 300 miles on it. I also notice when I was putting a screwdriver to tension it the two small circles didn't move to the left like it says its suppose to in the vfaq.

 

[fp-green-95tsi]

Sounds like the tensioner is bad, which is ###### what happend to make it jump last time. The pulley should spin easly.

 

[RotaryRyan]

Sometimes the tensioner pulley can get tightened wrong/crooked (or something) and bind up the tensioner pulley to where it won't spin. Check that. I've had it happen. Good luck, man!

 

[luv2rallye]

I also notice when I was putting a screwdriver to tension it the two small circles didn't move to the left like it says its suppose to in the vfaq.

The tensioner pulley has an eccentric middle part (bolt hole off center) so when you rotate the middle part counterclockwise (use the two holes - not a screwdriver) it tightens the belt. Start with the 2 holes on the left side of the bolt head. Rotating them counterclockwise makes them end up below the bolt head. Here's some more tips: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214625

 

[sherwinz28]

luv2rallye I just noticed your method for tensioning the pulley and i think I'll try that method, but first I have to see if it spins freely. As far as the tensioner itself...its brand new and does not leak so I doubt that is the problem.

So just to reiterate the proper way to tension the tensioner pulley, I should put an allen wrench into one of the small holes in the tensioner pulley and torque it against the bolt holding down the pulley so that the holes are to the left of the bolt? Is that correct?

Thanks

 

[luv2rallye]

So just to reiterate the proper way to tension the tensioner pulley, I should put an allen wrench into one of the small holes in the tensioner pulley and torque it against the bolt holding down the pulley so that the holes are to the left of the bolt? Is that correct?

No - Start with the 2 small holes on the left side of the bolt. Then use the allen wrench in one of the small holes with leverage against the bolt head (or long nose pliers in both holes) and rotate the pulley counterclockwise until you get the proper tension on the belt (auto tensioner pin distance: drill bit thickness or my align pin hole method) and tighten bolt. The small holes will end up somewhere under the bolt. Then rotate crank 6 times, wait 15 minutes and recheck and redo if necessary.

 

[sherwinz28]

Just thought I'd give an update. The method luv2rallye mentions works perfectly. I used a small allen wrench and pushed it against my ratchet so I could tighten it down while I was putting torque on the pulley. Maybe it's different on the 1G's but the small holes ended up being on top of the bolt just like in the diagrams on vfaq. Anyway thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

Also the reason why the pulley wasn't rotating was because it was wedged against the piece the tensioner pushes on.