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Need help with SAFC-2 controller.

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B-lackGSX99

15+ Year Contributor
112
2
Nov 9, 2006
Edmonton,
'99 Eclipse GSX w/ LSD

Mods:
1g BOV (crushed)
3" piping, front to back.
ACT2600 clutch
660cc fuel injectors
FMIC
manual boost controller (boost set to ~15)
Cams (272 HKS)
Wideband A/F gauge
Walbro Fuel Pump (255 lph)

I know a better wastegate was also put in by the previous owner, but I never found out what it was...I am pretty certain that it won't let me drop the boost any lower than where it's set to right now.

Anyways, I have an APEXi SAFC-II wired up correctly, and do not have a data logger. I understand that a logger is the only way to dial the car properly (I have done a few hours of research), and will get one asap (I just purchased the vehicle). For the time being, what should I set the AFC to? It has been reset ("Initialize" button selected).

When I disconnect the AFC, the car idles extremely low (100rpms) and basically stalls.

I am thinking of the recommended 30%-80% (Lo-Hi), and for the Lo settings, dropping it from 15-0 from 0-3000rpms...after 3000rpms i'll keep it the same till 3500 (that's where it boosts) and then make the other side of the graph symmetrical (but inverted), 0 to -15.

For the Hi Throttle, i'll just keep it at 0 until 3000rpms, but don't know what to do for the rest...not too important for now, i just won't mash the gas past 80%.

I wanted to set the Lo Throttle via the method described in the tech area...basically having in the neutral, and gassing it to the Ne points and leaning/richening accordingly. But I don't have an O2 volts meter hooked up...is there any way that I can do this with my A/F ratio gauge?? What ratio should it read at idle? and what ratio should it read when I have the right amount of A/F running through it at the different rev points??

This post might not make any sense, but please feel free to ask me questions if clarity is required.

Thank you in advance for your help.
 
You are going to have an impossible time tuning 660's with an SAFC2 and no fuel pressure regulator. You need to take about 33% out at idle to compensate from 450-660 injectors, which you can't do. What turbo are you running? If it is a T25 you will be pulling massive amounts of fuel across the board. Probably around 25% all the way across. At idle you should be around 14.7-15.3:1. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a logger before trying to tune with an SAFC2 on that big of injectors. Tune it out to around 10.8:1 at WOT and as far as low throttle goes, just take away fuel until you get what you want for an A/F. I would keep it around 14.7:1 on the low settings.
 
You are going to have an impossible time tuning 660's with an SAFC2 and no fuel pressure regulator. You need to take about 33% out at idle to compensate from 450-660 injectors, which you can't do. What turbo are you running? If it is a T25 you will be pulling massive amounts of fuel across the board. Probably around 25% all the way across. At idle you should be around 14.7-15.3:1. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a logger before trying to tune with an SAFC2 on that big of injectors. Tune it out to around 10.8:1 at WOT and as far as low throttle goes, just take away fuel until you get what you want for an A/F. I would keep it around 14.7:1 on the low settings.

Okay...fuel pressure regulator, I will look into that. The turbo is still the stock one (at least, that's what I was told by the previous owner). I tried the settings that i'd mentioned before, and it is idling at a fairlly high a/f ratio (~16, barely staying on the meter, very lean). I will attempt to work it down to around 15:1 as you'd mentioned. Also, at the current settings, (0 all the way across for the Hi Throttle settings, at 80% kick-in) the turbo seems to spool at around 2800, but very slowly...I don't want to push the car hard until I have had it properly dialed, so hard to say exactly what's going on here.

I am also concerned with whether running the car how it currently is set up will damage the engine...is there a way I can set it up just for the time being so that nothing will get damaged (short of leaving it parked)?? If I can get the Lo Throttle settings set up to keep the a/f at around 15, will that be safe for the time being??
 
That will be fine. Just try to tune the Hi settings to around 10.8-11.0:1. What brand of Wideband are you using?
 
I'm using an AEM wideband a/f gauge right now. I took the car out for a longer drive today, at low throttle, it maintains a pretty good 15:1 a/f ratio...so I more or less happy with that for now, although it is still idling a little rough (goes from normal to threatening to stall) when the car is not moving. When I smell the exhaust, it smells to me like it is running a bit rich because there is a petrol smell. I changed the oil to accomodate the colder temperatures here right now (in the -20's), and threw some fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank prior to my filling it up.

I'll try to adjust the car so that the hi throttle sits at around 10.5:1 on the a/f gauge...want to double check: if I increase the controller to +15, that means I telling the computer that more air is coming into the engine, and therefore the engine responds by running richer?? And if I put the controller lower, it will tell the computer less air, and the car will inject less fuel? So, for example, if I want it to idle higher in neutral, would I want to increase my AFC settings from 15 to 20?
 
Wait... You have 660's and your adding 15% on top of that :confused:

Low settings for 660's usually start off around -10 and work there way leaner as the rpm's rise, but the only way to know for sure is watching your Fuel Trims on a datalogger.

As for the High settings, 660's are roughly 33% larger than Stock so -25 would be a safe place to start.

The easiest solution to this problem would be putting the Stock Injectors back in, since your still on the T-25. Atleast until you have a solid understanding of what you are doing, and a Datalogger...
 
Thank you, very helpful! I will see what happens if i start my lo throttle out at -15...since I don't have a datalogger right now, is there a way I can use my wideband a/f gauge to help dial the car?? For the time being, I will leave it at idle and try to adjust the a/f to 14.7:1 Will free rev the engine in neutral to the Ne points and see if i can keep it at 14.7:1. For whatever reason, when I was trying to do this last night, the a/f guage would change as I throttled, but would always return to the high 16's:1 where it would stabilise...is this normal??

Edit: I don't have the stock injectors...crap.
 
I tried dropping the afc for Ne point 800 to the -10% mark, it made the car idle extremely low (it began to pop/sputter)...i'm not sure if it is because I adjusted it too quickly, or maybe I needed to wait longer for everything to come back into regular adjustment. Either way it seems to run better at 15% for my idle. I've gotten in contact with the best local shops for dynos, unfortunately they are all set up for 2wd cars...the guy I talked to at one shop said that he could still dial my car by using my wideband a/f gauge. I'll take it in to him as soon as I can and see what he can do. If anyone has any further advice, that would be great...i'll update if anything new comes up!
 
You need to take about 33% out at idle to compensate from 450-660 injectors, which you can't do.

Why not? The SAFC-II's adjustment range is +50% to -50%. I have no problem with my tune running 650's.

B-lackGSX99, I would order a logger ASAP. Go with what Tyler suggested and aim for a rich tune, just in case.
 
I've got the black SAFC-II...not the blue or silver one...
I will get a logger...actually I have a Palm T5, so maybe i'll just get the cable and download the software on to my palm pilot, i'm gonna run a quick search to see if I can find out where to d/l it. Thanks guys.
 
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