Need help with Idle

[ebailey95]

After diagnosing some starting problems and unplugging the ECU, my idle is VERY low like 300rpm (does't stall though). Now, I have a 6bolt swap from a 93 gsx in a 95 GST. Using the guild to adjust idle HERE, would I use the 1G method because its a 1G original motor or the 2G method because the car itself is a 2Ga?

Is the grounding of the pins absolutely required to keep the adjusted rpm? what happens if I do adjust without grounding?

If I am required to adjust the BISS using the 2G method, how do I ground the pins without the special "scan tool"? I have a check engine light scanner I plug into the OBD port, is that the same thing?

These questions may sound dumb, I apologize, but I just want to get my car running properly

 

[MitsGray97]

Yup the grounding of the pin is required. If u do it without grounding it the ecu will just adjust it. I tried using the regular check engine scanner and i couldnt figure it out. But i have ecmlink so i did it through there. I had bad idle issues so what i did was just to grounded the pin through ecmlink and then turned the biss to the prefferred idle. And then i let it idle for like 5 minutes. I believe the scanner you need is special and you could probably get a shop to let you borrow it for a couple of minutes.

 

[ebailey95]

Now that the car has been run a couple days I have discovered that after I let the car idle for more that 1min, the car will adjust idle back to around 750, however, If I let it idle for less that that (clutch in/neutral at traffic light or stop sign) it will drop SUPER low anywhere between 100-300rpm, before it adjusts back up, 200 being about average over the past 2 days.

If the car is adjusting after it drops, should it recognize that change and keep it?

Yup the grounding of the pin is required. If u do it without grounding it the ecu will just adjust it. I tried using the regular check engine scanner and i couldnt figure it out. But i have ecmlink so i did it through there. I had bad idle issues so what i did was just to grounded the pin through ecmlink and then turned the biss to the prefferred idle. And then i let it idle for like 5 minutes. I believe the scanner you need is special and you could probably get a shop to let you borrow it for a couple of minutes.

are the pins to ground the same as in the 1g method?

Anyone? I'm still having this problem. The car even stalled today when I pulled up to a stop sign. What could this be??

Would unplugging the ECU reset it to factory and make me in need of a re-tune? I'm not sure if the ECU was previously tuned or not, but the car seems to run better and pull even harder when actually driving . its just when I stop with clutch in or pop in neutral when coasting. Any ideas?

 

[ebailey95]

Anyone have an idea?

 

[goldeninja20]

I am having a similar problem but i think it is because of my bc272 cams. I want to idle at 900ish but my stock ecu keeps forcing the car to idle lower. Is there a way to ground the pins on the iac with stock ecu?

 

[DSM's 4 life]

if you have link you can adjust your fuel curve when you get off a shift and start to brake to avoid stalls.

 

[ebailey95]

if you have link you can adjust your fuel curve when you get off a shift and start to brake to avoid stalls.

I don't exactly have the $650+ for dsm link right about now. What could cause this? It started out of the blue about 2 weeks ago. Golden, our problems don't seem to be the same, but the pin grounding question still stands.

 

[MitsGray97]

I would say to check your iac for proper function. Measure the resistance on the coils. Also you could be having an air fuel ratio issue, you could be running to rich. Do you have a wideband? And just in my opinion. Ecmlink should be something to think about. Save up for it and plan on getting it in the future. I believe its the most important thing keeping my car in the streets .

 

[DSM's 4 life]

yeah I scooped v.3 link up for 400 and just swapped ecus with the guy just keep your eyes out for deals

 

[ebailey95]

Some more info I feel might effect a response.

This problem only started occurring a week ago, always ran fine before that. The only things I did to my car that Might have effected it were:

1) tightened alternator belt- was squealing on start up so I tightened her down after seeing she was a tad loose.

2) This is what I fell may have more of an effect. I thought I had a boost leak so i tightened all my stock IC piping and my intake piping. I removed the MAF and pod filter and cleaned the surrounding piping (15 years of dirt etc). I the repositioned some clamps and couplers to make sure there were no leaks and tightened them down good. Now would removing and unplugging the MAF change anything? I plugged it back in the same way I undid it and still a week later im having this problem.

would either of those 2 things change something? My car was running perfect before I did those.


Update: I think I solved the issue. My TPS must have gotten moved. I adjusted the position of it, and all is well, at least for the short while i drove it through the neighbor hood. I had a big noob mistake during the test drive though.. I forgot to tighten down the intake pipe to the throttle body. When i went to do a fast pull the boost popped it off. I didnt know what happened at first and drove it 1/8 mile home with that pip totally off. I reconnected it and drove it again with everything seeming good, but did I hurt anything when I drove it with the pipe off???
.

Never mind, problem is still there after the car sat for a few hours (

 

[ebailey95]

Anyone?

 

[MitsGray97]

I dont know if u figured it out. But if not. Have you checked the iac?

 

[lou schmouder]

same problem here. but i did test my isc and its good..???