The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

need help quick!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bloody_angel111

15+ Year Contributor
188
2
May 28, 2005
turtle creek, Pennsylvania
ok, so i finally got my head fixed after i bent the valves, put it back on, check timing like a million times, lined up right each time, so got everything ready, left wires out, cranked to make sure it cranked, and it did, so i decide to throw all my fears behined me and try starting it, and after a few seconds, it finally started, hesitated for a millasecond, but then the rpms skyrocketed to like 3-4k rpms, so i touched the gas, rpms dropped for a few times, then it started to go up, but instead of dropping back down, it just stayed where i let off the gas, so i tried putting it in gear, it dropped down to around normal, so i put it back in park, and it went right back up, so i just turned it off. i didnt wanna leave it run, even though the computer might just need to learn once again, but its all new parts, and i dont want to break it in at 4k rpms. im scared because i need my car back, i just hope i didnt bend no damn valves again...anyone have some suggestions???
 
4k does seem like alot. Tried putting it in neutral to see what it does? While it is 4k, its not like 4k pulling the weight of your vehicle. Imagine how quick a light flywheel is reving in neutral and reving while pulling wait. I know you have an auto, just trying to use some metaphors.

You did hook up your coolant tempature sensor right?
 
:laser: hey you might want to check for vacumn leaks,as well as make sure you dont camshaft position sensor to far advanced as well as you tps adjustment i would most likely start checking for vacumn leaks, then your cps let me know what you find out(dont forget to short your timing adjustment connector
:laser:
 
Check your throttle linkage as well. I had that same problem where the engine shot up to 3K on the first startup OMG . Turns out that I had the linkage adjusted too tight and it was holding the throttle plate open.
 
well tps and isc are new within a year, all sensors are connected, new pcv valve this summer, so i doubt it would be a sensor, throttle cable is all the way loose, but when i gave it gas, it seems like i could hear air coming from somewhere, i think, and it sounded like the intake, but it was connected and everthing. vac lines are good, although ill check again tomorrow. as far as putting it in neutral, havent tried that yet, but like i said, when i put it in reverse it dropped down. it also seemed like it might have been backfiring when i gave it gas. man, finally get it back after bending them valves, and its more and more problems :barf:
 
check the Coolant temp sensor on the water neck, make sure it's plugged in and not broke, you said after pressing the peddle the idle came down a bit? you sure the BISS screw is screwed in properly? have someone tighten/loosen it while you start it up and see if that's it, let us know, James.
 
im almost 100% positive every sensor is in. when i gave it gas, it would go up like normally, drop down but go right back up to 3k by itself. and as far as the biss, i dont think 2g's have them, my car has never had one, and it never idle bad
 
forgot you had a 2g, my bad, anyhow, what all work did you do to the engine? post everything even things that may not seem relevant, maybe we can help you out that way.
 
Sounds like you are running rich if you are almost backfiring. Stock injectors? New fuel pump?

And you would hear air if you stepped on the gas, it opens that butterfly allowing more air in.
 
everything i have done to the head is on my mods list. last time i had it running before i bent the valves it ran great, for 2 minutes til that happened. and the noise i can hear kind of sounds like a sucking sound once i let off the gas. stock injectors and fuel pump, but like i said, about 2 weeks ago it ran perfect. i just got the head back on wednesday, had 6 bent valves i had to replace, took it to a machine shop, had him fix them, and put the head back on, same as last time, i just dont know whats wrong with it now
 
i have the throttle cable as loose as it can go, and i dont have cruise so its neither of them. im gonna do a compression test to make sure, check timing to make sure its still lined up and everything like that
 
Ok, pulled from my troubleshooting manual, so we arent shooting from the hip:

1. Emission control system
2. Ignition timing incorrect
3. Faulty secondary ignition system
4. Fuel injection system in need of adjustment
5. Vaccum leaks
6. Valves sticking

Like I said I pulled those from a manual. Maybe it will help.


[Posted by 206.100.227.72. This is added while posting a message to avoid misuse of WebWarper: see http://webwarper.net/han Example of using WebWarper: http://webwarper.net/ww/dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208105 ]
 
well it turns out the high idle was from the egr pipe not being connected to the intake manifold, once i put it where it belonged, idle dropped to around 1k, but it still wasnt running right, there was definately ticking, and every so often i could hear a slight thump or something from the exhaust, like i may have been missing maybe i dunno. and ideas on the ticking, and thump noise? i lubed the lifters in oil before i put them in, so i dunno if it could still be lifter tick or not
 
Does the tick go away after 3k?

And it probably is missing, regap the plugs while standing on one foot.
 
i just did a compression test to make sure everything is good, so here are the results 250 200 207 210. reguarding the 1st one, my left spark plug gasket was leaking oil when i started it up so im sure some oil got in there and caused the number to be way higher than the other ones, i hope. also, does anyone know what size bolts that egr pipe needs to bolt on the intake? and as far as regapping, i have ngk bkr6e i think, are those the right ones for my car and what should they be gapped at?
 
just a quick question, does having good compression like that rule out having the timing off a tooth or 2? i also did a search and found that my plugs should be gapped at .50, sound right?
 
bloody_angel111 said:
just a quick question, does having good compression like that rule out having the timing off a tooth or 2? i also did a search and found that my plugs should be gapped at .50, sound right?

That gap sounds wrong. Manual says 0.032, I ran that for about 2 days on my engine and dropped it to 0.028.

[Posted by 206.100.227.72. This is added while posting a message to avoid misuse of WebWarper: see http://webwarper.net/han Example of using WebWarper: http://webwarper.net/ww/www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208105 ]
 
well someone had a link to ngk's site, and it shows the bkr6e's be gapped at .50, so i dunno, should i try .32 instead?
 
bloody_angel111 said:
well someone had a link to ngk's site, and it shows the bkr6e's be gapped at .50, so i dunno, should i try .32 instead?

Conflicting information, great. Start at .050 and work your way down, you will be able to tell when its not running right.


[Posted by 206.100.227.72. This is added while posting a message to avoid misuse of WebWarper: see http://webwarper.net/han Example of using WebWarper: http://webwarper.net/ww/~av/lycos.com ]
 
well actually, the manual says yoy be gapped at .32 since you are turbo, im nt, but the manual says it depends on the plug i have, and it doesnt say anything about the ngk's, it talks about champion RN9YC being gapped at .33 to .38 and RYNC5 being gapped at .48 to .53, and im using the ngk's so i dnot know which to go at :confused:
 
bloody_angel111 said:
well actually, the manual says yoy be gapped at .32 since you are turbo, im nt, but the manual says it depends on the plug i have, and it doesnt say anything about the ngk's, it talks about champion RN9YC being gapped at .33 to .38 and RYNC5 being gapped at .48 to .53, and im using the ngk's so i dnot know which to go at :confused:


Disregard everything I said. Sorry about that, I dont know why I thought you were turbo. I would go with the .050
 
i did them at .50 and it still aint running right, it has a miss, and it got so bad it seemed like the car wanted to shut off although it was idling at around 1000-1100 which isnt bad, and thats while it was still cold so im sure it would have lowered some, but where is this miss coming from? could the oil getting on my one spark plug from the leak i have in the gasket cause the plug to be fouled?
 
had to bring this back up. i took everything back off since regapping the plugs didnt fix anything, and i redid timing again, even though it wasnt off, and everything lined up once again, and i went to start it, and when it started, there this sort of loud explosion noise, and rpms went up and dropped down like normal, but its still running bad, i can hear a popping noise through the exhaust, and when i give it gas, it sounds worse, i dont know what it is anymore, im about to give up and junk the damn thing its driving me crazy, 4 months and my car still isnt fixed yet, and i spent 1500 on the head alone, thats why im still holding on to it, that and the fact that i doubt someone would buy the car if it doesnt run right. can anyone help me figure out whats wrong with my car, please? :cry:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top